X Valve Trigger problem.

[Fancyfingers]

Hey guys, I come to you seeking advise from the wise. I know a little bit about mags and such but this one is breaking my stones till no end.
I have X valved ULE mag with an inteliframe. I got her to RT nicely, but every now and again the bolt just goes dead. The trigger pin has pressure to push the trigger forward, but pulling it doesn't fire the marker.
I have to de-gas and re-gas the marker and she shoots until it happens again.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Thank you oh great Mag Gurus
(If this is in the wrong section I apologize and will gladly move promptly)

[nak81783]

Sounds like bolt stick. Tune the Level 10 per athomas' guide in the Level 10 sticky.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?43538-**-Official-Level-10-Problems-Thread-**&p=2868950#post2868950

[tucson.az.jbreen]

(more of an additional question then an answer, but...)

Sounds allot like my problems. I believe the source of my problem was the length of the on/off pin. I have yet to do field testing, but I believe replacing the pin with a shorter one fixed the problem

Also with the longer stock pin, I was unable to get my valve to do single shots, it bounces and shoots full auto no matter how you work the trigger.

Does this sound like you're set up at all?

Thanks, Jim

[Spider-TW]

Also with the longer stock pin, I was unable to get my valve to do single shots, it bounces and shoots full auto no matter how you work the trigger.

Is that what you meant to say? It sounds backwards.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

I see your point , and it does sound backwards.

With the stock .750 pin, there is no semi auto fire. If I squeeze the trigger all the way down, and try to hold it, the marker would continue to cycle.

[nak81783]

tucson,

Where in the trigger stroke does it initially fire -- start, middle, end?

[Fancyfingers]

The on off pin on this mag is .073, I guess it got shortened a little bit. It also fires right in the middle of the trigger pull. If you pull the trigger all the way back in one motion it will only fire one ball. The tank I'm using is also outputting 1100 psi, so I don't think air delivery is a problem.

[nak81783]

That high of pressure with .750 pin will likely cause reactivity. If you meant your currently installed pin is .730, it is even more likely to bounce. Are you saying it bounces less with the .730 pin than the .750 pin?

Try 850psi input and the .750 pin. If that works like a semi should, I'd leave it there.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

Nak- with the .750 my gun shoots almost instantly when you pull the trigger. It rt's at an incredible rate with light pressure on the trigger. The gun does unsavory things when you try to pull the trigger hard.

[Fancyfingers]

I unfortunately do not have a .075 pin, just the shortened one.

[Tunaman]

I bet you are missing an oring in the on/off...

[maniacmechanic]

(more of an additional question then an answer, but...)

Sounds allot like my problems. I believe the source of my problem was the length of the on/off pin. I have yet to do field testing, but I believe replacing the pin with a shorter one fixed the problem.

Totally a hypothesis, but I believe the Luke's custom ultra lite rail has the sear assembly sitting closer to the valve body, then would an agd stock rail. Assuming my theory is valid, this would mean the sear was pushing the pin further into the body than what is ideal.

Also with the longer stock pin, I was unable to get my valve to do single shots, it bounces and shoots full auto no matter how you work the trigger.

Does this sound like you're set up at all?

Thanks, Jim

IIRC Lukes rails are made from AGD rails ( he just makes'em really lite ) ,, I don't think he makes them from scratch ( I may be wrong If I am please correct me )
Normally we shorten pins , shim the on/off or increase reg output psi ( variable adjustable regs are the best for this ) to get more reactivity

[athomas]

The OP problem does sound like bolt stick. The 0.730" pin is short, but should work fine. It will just be a bit more reactive, especially with the 1100psi input. There could be an on-off oring problem as well. A leak in that area could cause the bolt to lock up. When you hold the trigger in, does the bolt sputter or weep air out the front? If it does, then one of the on-off orings is leaking. If not, then your problem is probably a carrier oring that is too tight.

tuscson: Your problem sounds like a leaking on-off. The longer pin should reduce the reactivity not enhance it. The fact that it goes full auto when you hold the trigger would indicate significant air flow through the on-off area. Have a look at your orings and make sure they are all there and in good condition.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

OK, I'll check next. I just moved, everything is on boxes and I'll do field testing soon.

Will I have spares in my level 10 kit that came with the gun?

Or should I order a rebuild kit preemptively?

Is it possible that my x valve say inactive so long that all the o rings need changing?

[athomas]

tucson: The orings could be hardened if they are old. They will be yellow and hard when that happens. Most likely, if the oring looks fine, any problems will be caused by a piece of dirt or debris. Unfortunately, some dirt can cause blemishes in the oring surface that can cause issues. If the mag has been sitting for a while, it never hurts to give it a good cleaning and inspect the oring. Replace any that are suspect.

If you have a RT or X-valve oring kit, it will have spare on-off orings. The level 10 kit will only have spare carrier orings.