Weird Sear Pin sticking issue

[Mondoatx]

Hey guys,

Got a new body and rail and grip frame and I dropped in my xvalve from my RT Pro...

Things worked fine in the old intelliframe and ULE body for a while... but towards the end before I switched out the rail, body, and grip frame the sear pin would get stuck back...

I will fire a string of shots... and then the sear pin gets stuck in a back position... now... if it gets stuck and then I stick my finger in the breech and push on the bolt... the bolt will sometimes move back a tad bit and stay pushed back and then the sear pin pops forward. Other times I push on the bolt and it goes back and the sear pin stays back and the bolt slides back forward a bit to it's original stuck position (basically you can push the bolt with your finger and it moves slightly in and out as you apply and release pressure and the sear pin stays in the stuck back position).

I put off addressing this issue until I got these new parts... and I have tried a handful of different things now to no avail:

1. Using a silver spring now that is cut to a length in between the gold and red spring lenth.
2. Switched out springs yesterday to see what happened... used gold and red... still had the weird issue.
3. A buddy suggested going up a carrier size... tried that... (went from 1 dot to 1 line)... and I didn't have the issue but I did have a small leak out of the bolt (only tried this with the silver spring cut to a length betw red and gold).
4. I did notice a shim in the power tube from last time I had tuned the gun with the RT Pro rail and ULE body and intelli frame... took that out just to see what happened and still have the same problem.
5. Had an old Classic style bumper on there and changed that out to a Xvalve style one (which is a bit thinner)... still have the same problem.

Any suggestions? I kind of expected going up a carrier size or removing the shim would address the issue... but no dice.

Oh... one other piece of info... have a standard RT on/off... not sure pin size... I do have a shorter one though if that might help... waiting on a ULT on/off in the mail.

Thanks as always guys.

Mondoatx

[Laku]

Rail has bushing on it? If it does then it sounds like lvl 10 stick issue. (Assuming it's chronoed to shoot at normal field velocities?)
Next time it does that try pushing from the back of the valve. Does that make the bolt reset?
If it does that might mean that your valve can move in relation to the body and this causes misalignment that causes bolt stick. Usually that means your field strip screw is too loose. Though I have one rail that needed little electric tape on the back of the rail to slightly elevate valve back to help it align with the body.

[Mondoatx]

Laku,

Tried the following a few minutes ago:

1. Checked for a bushing in the rail... it is present.
2. Pushing on back of the valve... it did not reset the bolt.
3. Tightened the field strip screw beyond hand tight with an allen wrench - This did actually help... but did not completely resolve the issue...

More details: I can shoot slow to moderate with the gun... but when I try to rip I get occasional chuffs and the pin will stick forward eventually. Also... when I try to shoot really fast the ROF is kind of limited because the pin returns back to a forward position slowly (not too slow... but that delay repeated many times a second adds up and may be the reason I am chuffing... I think when it chuffs I am pulling the trigger again before it is in the full forward position).

Since this is a new/different body I am thinking maybe a different spring would yield different results with the tightened down field strip screw. You think that I should try the other springs in combination with the tightened down field strip screw?

Anything thing else I should try with the LX setup?

1 final thought: The problem seems to be more pronounced the higher I got with output pressure... I have an 800 PSI preset, a 950, and an 1150... and as you increase pressure... the problem gets worse and worse... not sure what this means... but I want to fix it so I am passing on the info.

Also got the ULE trigger in the mail today... which I want to try... but I figured I should try to get this resolved before introducing another variable.

Thanks all.

Mondo

[Mbataska]

This sounds exactly like the problem I've been having. I sent mine to tuna though, that mag just beat the hell out of me. Can't wait to see what causes this. I have a new x valve in a new ULT body on a used classic rail and nos carbon fiber grip frame. I was told mixing old stuff and new stuff sometimes creates problems like this.

[Mondoatx]

Hey guys,

This is solved.

I couldn't wait to try out the ULE trigger... so I just installed it with 5 shims... The gun freaking RIPS!!!

And the problem went away...

I discovered there was a quad o ring on the top of the old on/off... but other than that nothing seemed odd or out of place...

Funny thing is... I have an 800 PSI output bottle... a 950... and an 1100... and the gun RTs much more with the 950 than with the 1100...

Anyways... this thing is awesome!! New barrel and macroline comes in tomorrow... can't wait!!

This thing is awesome!!

Thanks all!

M

[Mbataska]

Nice, wish I would have thought to try a ULT trigger before I sent it out.

[Stedspitcher]

Mondo,

Glad to hear you were able to get it up and running. If your ever having troubles you can always reach out to me brotha.

[93klauss]

Yea think I am in the same place. X valve, ult body and hyperframe on a classic rail.. Everytime I think its good to go, it laughs at me...

[Mondoatx]

Talked to Stedpspitcher... he kinda helps me with stuff (ok... kind of = helps me constantly LOL)... he mentioned it may have been that the on/off pin was too long... you may want to try a shorter one... I have a shorter one but it was kind of a moot point with the ULE trigger on/off going in.

I also had a similar issue in the past (same valve, different body/rail/grip frame) and it went away when I put a looser spring on the bolt (the spring that was on there was super tight).

May want to take a look at those two things if the sear pin is sticking forward.

Stay patient guys... once you get them tuned and dialed in they work for a long time with no problems.

Getting the RT Pro going at first took literally 6-9 months of off and on tinkering... I would get so p*ssed I would have to take breaks for a few weeks at a time.

[Laku]

I also had a similar issue in the past (same valve, different body/rail/grip frame) and it went away when I put a looser spring on the bolt (the spring that was on there was super tight).

To me that would indicate slightly too tight carrier. Looser spring gives the bolt more forward force and that helps to overcome slight sticking.

Glad you got your gun working. Quad ring is something I probably wouldn't have thought of, trying to diagnose by proxy.

[Nobody]

Hey guys,

This is solved.

I couldn't wait to try out the ULE trigger... so I just installed it with 5 shims... The gun freaking RIPS!!!

And the problem went away...

I discovered there was a quad o ring on the top of the old on/off... but other than that nothing seemed odd or out of place...

Funny thing is... I have an 800 PSI output bottle... a 950... and an 1100... and the gun RTs much more with the 950 than with the 1100...

Anyways... this thing is awesome!! New barrel and macroline comes in tomorrow... can't wait!!

This thing is awesome!!

Thanks all!

M

That is more so that the actual output differs from the output on paper. If you want, test the output on a reg tester but do not use just any gauge. Most gauges for paintball are off or inaccurate, by design. It could +/- of 1% or 20%. And the same goes for the regs too. Not all springs, bellville washers or whatever are equal. Remember, you are paying for the cheapest parts. Those setups are a general guide to how it should be,not what it is. Real world testing should always be done with a certified, tested gauge that is +/-1% or less.

[Mondoatx]

That is more so that the actual output differs from the output on paper. If you want, test the output on a reg tester but do not use just any gauge. Most gauges for paintball are off or inaccurate, by design. It could +/- of 1% or 20%. And the same goes for the regs too. Not all springs, bellville washers or whatever are equal. Remember, you are paying for the cheapest parts. Those setups are a general guide to how it should be,not what it is. Real world testing should always be done with a certified, tested gauge that is +/-1% or less.

Nobody,

Thanks for the insight. I have checked the output on all my bottles... but they have been standard paintball micro gauge style... so I guess this begs the question... how does one ensure they are using a certified, tested gauge that is +/- 1%? Where would one acquire a gauge like this?

Thanks man.

M

[luke]

Not exactly cheap> https://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-fil...auges/=17cwo2p

[Nobody]

Not exactly cheap> https://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-fil...auges/=17cwo2p

Never said they were, but when you are testing regs, knowing you have something that says 200psi into the gun, saves a lot of expensive & hard to get noids.

But yes, they aren't for the common tool kit, but if you know that you would use these i a lot of applications were accuracy is paramont, then it is an investment for the better

[luke]

Wasn't a dig, just a fact.

Here's mine.
gauge.JPG