A shooting leak?

[93klauss]

THis also happened at Tunaball last year,had big evil look at it, thought it was the body, got new body no luck...Was at westpoint classic, same problem. gun airs up fine, no leaks.... Can shoot anywhere between 200 to 400 rds, then a barrel leak develops.... Sometimes I can continue to fire and the leak will stop. Sometimes when leak develops I can not fire at all... Sometimes I have to turn the air off and back on, and it will fire, with no leak until I fire another few hundred or rds....

First time and second time thought was carrier oring wearing in...So Changed carriers and orings... until down to smallest carrier...Go back to air station, crono, shoot a hopper, no leaks.... Go to the field, shoot for a while.. And the leak comes back...

Xvalve lv 10
hyperframe
Ule body
At a loss..

Could this be on/off sticking? Body and valve mis-alignment?



Thanks for the help

[nak81783]

How severe is the leak?

Does it stop if you push on the bolt face?

Is rail bushing present?

[93klauss]

Pretty sever, sounds like a fire extinguisher. Did not push on bolt face... Rail bushing is present... I have video, have to edit it.

https://www.facebook.com/ed.dumas.31/videos/10100585828542167/

This is after changing to smallest carrier, and shooting a hopper at the crono station... Get to the field and this.

[nak81783]

Had to use my wife's Facebook to open the link, but the video still doesn't work for me.

What's your consistency over the chrono?

[93klauss]

Should work now, had to change privacy settings.

Pretty consistent +5 to 8 fps...

I have a sneaking suspicion that it is the rail, body combo, I think the Ule body might be shifting... going to test with steel body and see if I get the same leak...

[nak81783]

Without the field strip screw in, is the trigger frame loose? Front screw might be bottoming out in body before pulling everything tight.

Is your sear sharp? Is the catch lip/flange on the bolt square or rounded off?

Do you have an AGD frame to test to rule out the Hyperframe?

[93klauss]

Everything seems tight.

Have not checked the sear, or bolt, thanks for the ideas... I do have a AGD frame, going to go through the possibilities tomorrow.. ANything else you can think of...

Thanks again

[nak81783]

What on/off are you using? I've never had or worked on a Hyperframe. I think I've read they come with a proprietary on/off but may work with others. If you're using a proprietary one, do you have an AGD one to install? Basically, I like to return markers as close to AGD stock as possible to troubleshoot, and go from there.

[athomas]

A powertube leak isn't as pronounced and will slow a bit after time because the on-off is still closed. That sounds like an on-off leak.

[rawbutter]

It might be a battery issue. If the battery isn't fully charged, it might not be pushing hard enough on the sear occasionally, which causes a partial firing, and the massive leak. So....yeah. Make sure your battery is fully charged.

Oh, and if the battery is older, then I would consider replacing it altogether. Rechargeable batteries lose memory over their lifespan (and don't discharge as much or as consistently), so maybe it simply needs to get recycled and replaced. But make sure you buy the right kind to replace it. I seem to remember that Hyperframes require 9.6v rechargeable batteries, not 9v.

[athomas]

Partial firing in a level 10 should cause the level 10 to reset as soon as some of the air leaves the chamber, similar to the bolt hitting an obstruction. If it doesn't reset and continues to leak, then the bolt is sticking.

Now, why does it stick?

1) Either there is a continuous supply of air to keep it pushed forward, which would be caused by a leaking on-off
2) There is a continuous supply of air to keep it pushed forward, which would be caused by the small oring at the back of the regulator pin assembly
3) The carrier oring is too tight and won't allow the bolt to slide back.

Based on the continuous rush of air, I am leaning towards #1. Some hyperframes had on-off pins that were too short. You may need a longer pin. What pin are you using? Is it a retro pin, ULT, or a hyperframe pin?

[93klauss]

Thanks for the help...

Seems like its been raining here for 2 weeks...In the rainy 2 weeks completely tore down the valve... Found that the two orings in the back of the regulator that could be replaced,(athomas#2) got oring kit. Replaced..

I believe that I have the normal on off pin... will measure... previously had the ULT in the valve but restored original on off.

Believe battery was brand new, but was from brother in law so you never know...lol

Will test when I see the sun again... Dogs dont like the paintball gun..