RT Classic vs RT Pro Sear

[audioSLAVE]

I just picked up my first RT Classic and I am looking to replace parts. I was looking to pick up a new sear for it and saw there was a different part number than the RT Pro sear on the website. What are the major differences between the two?
Also, what are the two set screws on the tail end of the rail? If I was to get the rail ULEd is there anything I should be aware of or specific areas to avoid cutting into to avoid any issues as far as air running through the rail? Thanks in advance.

[awo702]

The trigger rods are different lengths, not sure to what degree though. I would also like to know what the set screws at the back of the rail are for.


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[Tunaman]

I am pretty sure that those set screws were where they drilled the rails for the air passages. You cant ULE Mill these rails and the sears are the same.

[audioSLAVE]

Thank you!

[awo702]

I am pretty sure that those set screws were where they drilled the rails for the air passages. You cant ULE Mill these rails and the sears are the same.

Now I'm a little confused because I asked this same question to Sandman at AGD and he told me this- "ULE RT are 1.980 and classic length is 1.935
That is measured installed from the back of the sear to the tip of the rod."




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[audioSLAVE]

Now I'm a little confused because I asked this same question to Sandman at AGD and he told me this- "ULE RT are 1.980 and classic length is 1.935
That is measured installed from the back of the sear to the tip of the rod."




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You can probably use the same sear, but you just need to adjust the length depending on which marker it is in.

[Cyco-Dude]

I just picked up my first RT Classic and I am looking to replace parts. I was looking to pick up a new sear for it and saw there was a different part number than the RT Pro sear on the website. What are the major differences between the two?
Also, what are the two set screws on the tail end of the rail? If I was to get the rail ULEd is there anything I should be aware of or specific areas to avoid cutting into to avoid any issues as far as air running through the rail? Thanks in advance.

the rt classic sears had a bearing where the sear pin went, and had carbide inserts where the sear contacted the on/off pin and bolt. while hard-wearing, the carbide was more brittle as a result. i've replaced a lot of rt classic sears that were chipped. if your rt classic needs a new sear, you can use the rt pro sear without issue. i have not noticed any issues with the rod length, but you would have to determine this based on the frame you are using. it's no big deal to adjust it if needed.

tunaman already covered the rail. you should be able to mill the front of the rail leaving the rear (with the air passages) alone, but that would have to be worked out with luke (or whoever you have milling the rail i guess). basically, anything around and behind the banjo bolt hole in the rail would be off-limits, but anything to the front of that would be ok.

[audioSLAVE]

the rt classic sears had a bearing where the sear pin went, and had carbide inserts where the sear contacted the on/off pin and bolt. while hard-wearing, the carbide was more brittle as a result. i've replaced a lot of rt classic sears that were chipped. if your rt classic needs a new sear, you can use the rt pro sear without issue. i have not noticed any issues with the rod length, but you would have to determine this based on the frame you are using. it's no big deal to adjust it if needed.

tunaman already covered the rail. you should be able to mill the front of the rail leaving the rear (with the air passages) alone, but that would have to be worked out with luke (or whoever you have milling the rail i guess). basically, anything around and behind the banjo bolt hole in the rail would be off-limits, but anything to the front of that would be ok.

Thanks, I appreciate the insight. The current sear seems to be on the brittle side and really sharp, bolt looks a little chewed up as well, assuming from the sear.

[Tunaman]

Thanks, I appreciate the insight. The current sear seems to be on the brittle side and really sharp, bolt looks a little chewed up as well, assuming from the sear.

Change the bolt and sear as a pair. You will thank me later.

[audioSLAVE]

Change the bolt and sear as a pair. You will thank me later.

That's the plan, it's a level 7 and will be upgrading to level 10.