X Valve goes full auto

[tizon]

Sorry guys, I thought I was doing the right thing by going back and posting to what I thought was the relevant thread...instead of making a new one.

So here is some video of what is going on.

[vintage]

called rt effect, most people want this. pull the on off pin and measure the length. if I remember you said you had 850 psi into it and if it bounces like that you may need a longer pin. did you buy the valve used?

[RehKal]

With the trigger fully pulled back it shouldn't be the RT effect. Can you feel the trigger pushing your finger forward when it does that? If the trigger stays fully back against the frame without moving it isn't RT effect.

If it is RTing, grats.. you have an easy one. Mine don't RT so easily. :)

[tizon]

With the trigger fully pulled back it shouldn't be the RT effect. Can you feel the trigger pushing your finger forward when it does that? If the trigger stays fully back against the frame without moving it isn't RT effect.

If it is RTing, grats.. you have an easy one. Mine don't RT so easily. :)

that is just holding the trigger down.

[tizon]

called rt effect, most people want this. pull the on off pin and measure the length. if I remember you said you had 850 psi into it and if it bounces like that you may need a longer pin. did you buy the valve used?

I don't have calipers to measure it correctly, but I do have another RT on/off that I bought brand new from AGD and I compared them, they are the same.

[tizon]

I bought the X valve new

[Billz804]

That's not the RT effect, and I don't believe that most people want that, anyways.

Most people want an Automag that functions correctly and controllably!

I was having a similar issue to this at one point. Having just rebuilt my valve with new orings, I knew that I had good seals, but I worried that I had perhaps installed one incorrectly.

I was thinking that the On/Off was the culprit, but I did an experiment to rule it out -- remove the bolt and spring from your marker, install the valve, and hold the trigger down as you air up. If the marker seals, I believe that you may rule out the On/off as the problem.

After I did that, I opened the halves of my valve to inspect my orings. There is a smaller oring that gets stuck in the back half of the valve. Everything I've read has mentioned that it ought to actually go inside of the brass Reg Seat Holder piece, but I just pulled it out, oiled it, and replaced it into the hole on the rear of the valve.

Voila. Marker seals, fires one shot per pull (with just a little reactivity!), and seals completely when I hold the trigger back.

By the way, you can measure your trigger pin with a regular ruler if you don't have calipers. Obviously it isn't as precise, but .750 is equivalent to 3/4".

Hope that helps some!

[tizon]

That's not the RT effect, and I don't believe that most people want that, anyways.

Most people want an Automag that functions correctly and controllably!

I was having a similar issue to this at one point. Having just rebuilt my valve with new orings, I knew that I had good seals, but I worried that I had perhaps installed one incorrectly.

I was thinking that the On/Off was the culprit, but I did an experiment to rule it out -- remove the bolt and spring from your marker, install the valve, and hold the trigger down as you air up. If the marker seals, I believe that you may rule out the On/off as the problem.

After I did that, I opened the halves of my valve to inspect my orings. There is a smaller oring that gets stuck in the back half of the valve. Everything I've read has mentioned that it ought to actually go inside of the brass Reg Seat Holder piece, but I just pulled it out, oiled it, and replaced it into the hole on the rear of the valve.

Voila. Marker seals, fires one shot per pull (with just a little reactivity!), and seals completely when I hold the trigger back.

By the way, you can measure your trigger pin with a regular ruler if you don't have calipers. Obviously it isn't as precise, but .750 is equivalent to 3/4".

Hope that helps some!

Thanks for the reply, I tried the bolt off air up test and it was leaking out the front. I measured the on/off pin at 3/4".

[luke]

I've seen a bad sear act this way, check the edge on the sear that catches the bolt for wear.

[tizon]

I've seen a bad sear act this way, check the edge on the sear that catches the bolt for wear.

Brand new sear

[luke]

I would still inspect the sear and bolt edge instead of assuming it's good because it's new. I've purchased many 'new' things in my lifetime that were bad for one reason or another, and you posted here in tech for that exact reason.

It'll take 5 minutes to disassemble the marker and inspect the parts, I would use a magnifying glass for close inspection. Could be you were sent a worn sear by mistake.

[tizon]

I would still inspect the sear and bolt edge instead of assuming it's good because it's new. I've purchased many 'new' things in my lifetime that were bad for one reason or another, and you posted here in tech for that exact reason.

It'll take 5 minutes to disassemble the marker and inspect the parts, I would use a magnifying glass for close inspection. Could be you were sent a worn sear by mistake.

Your right, I just assumed it was new because it was in a new baggie and it was all shiney...I'll take a closer look

[luke]

I'm certainly not saying you WILL find that is the problem but if everything is OK you can check it off the list.

[Billz804]

If it still leaked when the trigger was held back, I believe it's safe to say that you have an issue in the on off somewhere.

[tizon]

I'll go through and replace all the on/off o-rings