New Year Tech Quiz ... well kinda

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Alan Smith
    Registered User
    • Nov 2018
    • 8

    #1

    New Year Tech Quiz ... well kinda

    Hi everyone,

    So here’s a New Year quiz for you all! (actually it’s some questions I have dressed up as a quiz for fun! no prize just bragging rights for the most knowledgeable)

    1 - I’ve found some bits marked as “mag spares” see attached pictures, parts numbered 1-43 can you identify the parts?

    2 - I presume 21 -24 are the same part but whats the difference were they for different markers?

    3 - what’s the functional difference between numbers 25 and 26?

    4 - what’s the functional difference between numbers 33, 34 and 35?

    5 - why is there a different retainer on 42 and 43?

    6 - What’s the best way to protect ageing spare parts both orings and hard parts to prevent them going bad?

    Answers I’ve been able to put together are in the next post!

    Thanks in advance,


    Al...

    IMG_7060.jpg

    IMG_7057.jpg
    Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-05-2019, 09:17 AM.
  • Alan Smith
    Registered User
    • Nov 2018
    • 8

    #2
    Answers consolidated here:

    Questions:
    1 -
    2 -
    3 -
    4 -
    5 -
    6 - "to keep orings fresh is to keep them out of the light and to keep them sealed in something airtight. A military metal ammo can in my basement...cool, dark, airtight. The orings I take with me in my gear to games are kept in contact lens cases. They can be segregated and organized and kept in something that keeps them away from light and open air. As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.
    As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.” Thanks JKR great answer!


    Parts Identification:
    1 -
    2 - 018 - RT/classic/mini barrel O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    3 - 018
    4 - 015
    5 - 015 - asa tank O-Ring 90 duro urethane
    6
    7
    8
    9 - classic reg seat oring (not AGD)
    10 - classic reg seat oring

    11 - 007
    12 - 006 - X/RT Reg. Valve Pin O-rings 90 duro urethane
    13 - 006 - classic/mini Teflon on/off O-Ring
    14 - 006
    15 - 116 - classic/mini Reg. Body O-ring 90 duro urethane
    16
    17
    18 - SIZE 012 - X/RT/classic/mini Reg. Piston O-rings 90 duro urethane
    19 - 010 - X/RT/classic/mini power tube O-Ring (X on off bottom) 90 duro urethane
    20 - 009 - RT Field Strip Banjo O-rings 90 duro urethane
    21 - Classic/mini bolt bumper
    22 - classic bolt bumper
    23 - Retro bolt bumper
    24 - Modified retro bolt bumper


    25 - AIR reg pin valve
    26 - AIR reg pin valve
    27 - RT on/off pin
    28 - AIR reg cone spring
    29 - mag safety spring
    30
    31
    32
    33 - moded on/off top
    34 - on/off top
    35 - on/off top
    36 - classic velocity lock nut
    37 -
    38 - RT safety
    39 - classic safety
    40
    41
    42 - AIR valve shim stack
    43 - AIR valve shim stack
    Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-19-2019, 03:17 AM.

    Comment

    • JKR
      Stainless Steel 'Mag Lover
      • Sep 2003
      • 392

      #3
      Originally posted by Alan Smith View Post
      6 - What’s the best way to protect ageing spare parts both orings and hard parts to prevent them going bad?

      The best thing to keep orings fresh is to keep them out of the light and to keep them sealed in something airtight. I have some of my orings in a military metal ammo can in my basement...cool, dark, airtight. The orings I take with me in my gear to games are kept in contact lens cases. They can be segregated and organized and kept in something that keeps them away from light and open air.


      As far as metal parts, keep them in something airtight and coated in light oil or even a light grease. Preventing corrosion is your goal here.

      Comment

      • athomas
        Of course it works-its AGD
        • Jan 2002
        • 8039

        #4
        I'll try to add a couple in a hurry:

        Answers consolidated here:

        1 -
        2 - 018 - RT/classic/mini barrel O-Ring 90 duro urethane
        3 - 018
        4 - 015
        5 - 015 - asa tank O-Ring 90 duro urethane
        6
        7
        8
        9 - classic reg seat oring (not AGD)
        10 - classic reg seat oring
        11 - 007
        12 - 006 - X/RT Reg. Valve Pin O-rings 90 duro urethane
        13 - 006 - classic/mini Teflon on/off O-Ring
        14 - 006
        15 - 116 - classic/mini Reg. Body O-ring 90 duro urethane
        16
        17
        18 - SIZE 012 - X/RT/classic/mini Reg. Piston O-rings 90 duro urethane
        19 - 010 - X/RT/classic/mini power tube O-Ring (X on off bottom) 90 duro urethane
        20 - 009 - RT Field Strip Banjo O-rings 90 duro urethane
        21 - Classic/mini bolt bumper
        22 - classic bolt bumper
        23 - Retro bolt bumper
        24 - Modified retro bolt bumper

        25 - AIR reg pin valve
        26 - AIR reg pin valve
        27 - RT on/off pin
        28 - AIR reg cone spring
        29 - mag safety spring
        30
        31
        32
        33 - moded on/off top
        34 - on/off top
        35 - on/off top
        36 - classic velocity lock nut
        37 - classic velocity adjuster (used with velocity lock nut)
        - not sure on this now
        38 - RT safety
        39 - classic safety
        40
        41
        42 - AIR valve shim stack
        43 - AIR valve shim stack
        Last edited by athomas; 01-15-2019, 07:37 AM. Reason: possible error on #37
        Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

        Comment

        • Alan Smith
          Registered User
          • Nov 2018
          • 8

          #5
          Thanks you great answers so far anymore info. on the missing answers/questions please?

          Also I can see how the "classic velocity lock nut" 36 would fit on the back of the valve but the "velocity adjuster" 37 has different threads, how do they work together?
          Last edited by Alan Smith; 01-15-2019, 02:54 AM.

          Comment

          • vintage
            Registered User

            • Aug 2013
            • 1787

            #6
            the velocity lock nut is for field rental mags, you adjust the velocity where you want it then screw the "cap" on over the adjuster.

            Comment

            • athomas
              Of course it works-its AGD
              • Jan 2002
              • 8039

              #7
              The velocity adjuster was a tournament lock. You were required to have them on any mag used for a tournament. It prevented tampering with the velocity in the game. Without it you could manually adjust the velocity by degassing the mag and turning the adjuster with your fingers. By using this type of lock, the velocity was adjusted and then the cap was put on over the adjuster and tightened in place, preventing any further adjustments even with tools.

              Further looking at the pictures, I'm not so sure that #37 is part of the adjuster, even though it does look to be the correct shape. The threading looks too coarse. The outer threading should be the same as the fine threads on the inside of the valve at the back, which is the same fine threads seen on the cap.
              Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

              Comment

              Working...