Classic RT Bolt needed

[Shumphreys34]

So I have a 9/10 classic RT, with not many cases of paint through it, kept in immaculate shape and cleaned after every use. It's completely stock. Anyway, I started having a double firing problem that took me FOREVER to diagnose the issue. Only after I borrowed another RT was I able to swap parts to determine the excessive wear on the bolt was the problem. It appears the spring is wearing the bolt? I also read it's the trigger sear doing this? It's worn unevenly and each time I clean the marker the oil has some grey in it from metal on metal wear.

So now I need to find new bolts for a classic (AGD doesn't have them on the website), and I also need to find a fix for this problem so I don't need to look for bolts every 8-10 cases of paint. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Or I need to know if other bolts for other AGD products would work...

Thank you for any help!!!

Steve

[captian pinky]

check your sear. It sounds like you might have the old sear with the carbide edge and not the updated one which lasts much longer.

If your sear is silver with a dark edge along the tapered portion, also having a needle bearing for the sear pin to ride on. That is the older sear version.

The new sear uses a brass bushing for the sear pin to ride on. The sear should be a gold color.

[Shumphreys34]

check your sear. It sounds like you might have the old sear with the carbide edge and not the updated one which lasts much longer.

If your sear is silver with a dark edge along the tapered portion, also having a needle bearing for the sear pin to ride on. That is the older sear version.

The new sear uses a brass bushing for the sear pin to ride on. The sear should be a gold color.

Thank you for the reply. I'll check into this tonight. Talk soon!

[athomas]

The spring won't wear the bolt any amount.

Bolt wear only occurs at the edge where the sear catches. The sear itself can get chipped at the tip where it catches the bolt. If either is rounded or chipped, it can cause issues. They usually last quite a while if the gun is not adjusted to reduce the surface area where the sear catches the bolt. If one or both are worn, they will need to be replaced for the gun to work properly. I have run 100,000 shots through a mag valve without having to replace a sear or bolt, so you shouldn't be wearing one out in 8 to 10 cases. The bolt springs will wear out and cause coughing and sputtering.

I noticed you mentioned that the oil has metal filings in it. You will have some metal to metal contact, but nothing significant. It would be no worst than if you took a polishing cloth and rubbed the stainless bolt. The cloth would turn grey with metal, but nothing that would cause enough wear to be an issue. There shouldn't be any oil, though. Keep the spring and outer surface of the bolt free of oil. The oil will transfer into the breach and onto the balls, and get into the barrel, which will affect your consistency and accuracy.

[Sandman]

For thread clarification for anyone reading...Steve had the carbide steel sear. It was and did destroy his bolt. It was not damaged or chipped but it still ruined his bolt. Sometimes those sears work and don't cause issues, but many times they cause serious issues and really should be replaced. I recommend not using those old sears unless you have been using it for some time and your bolt edge still measures at least .154.