I hope this is the right place to post this.
I ordered a new mag from AGD 2 weeks ago and I have had some issues since it came out of the box. It has been a while since I have played with one, but not completely new to them, having owned an EMag and had the privilege to own an Xmodded XMag (should have never sold it!).
Maybe the gurus can help me out because I have been beating my head on the desk trying to get this gun to run at least half of the time.
Setup: RT ULE XValve'd w/ULT just like is on the current AGD website. Took about a week to get to me. Came with this real nice AGD microfiber towel!
68/4500 w/ Ninja V2 reg @800PSI,
OG Crossfire red label regulator @~850 on a gauge
PMI PE 800psi preset regulator
Macroline is setup from bottom ASA to foregrip, then to upper v. ASA to valve. No leaks
Broke it down, oiled the living guts out of it.
Put air on it, held the trigger in, and it gassed up fine. Started to dry fire it, making sure not to short stroke, fired a few times, and the sear actuation pin wasn't returning and getting stuck, like the on/off assembly was messed up. I could sometimes manually "reset" the bolt with my finger, pushing the on/off back down and get the gun back to a firing state. Sometimes, I would have to completely degas the valve. I then thought it was a bolt stick issue. Pulled apart the gun, cleaned for any debris, inspected orings/seals etc. Carrier was too tight and had 3 shims in it. Followed the L10 instructions to the T, removed the powertube shims, found the biggest carrier that didn't leak and that would allow the gun to cycle. Using the gold spring that came factory with the gun. This was a marginal improvement. Also tried the red spring for kicks, no change. Still having cycling issues. Made sure there was a credit card sized gap between the trigger and sear actuation pin. Replaced orings in ULT, oiled the hell out of it. Tried multiple combinations of shims in the ULT. It came from the factory with 3. I saw a thread where Tuna said to start with 2. No change with any combination of shims. Unfortunately, I do not have a regular RT on/off to rule out an ULT issue. The sear pin bolt is tight but not over tight, the valve thumbscrew is tight but not over tight. I have tried different tank regs, cranked the velocity, changed the sear actuation pin lengths, tried setting up the L10 to I believe A Thomas's recommendations/instructions and the little printed manual that came with the gun.
I cooked 3 4500psi fills before walking away from it. It was still not running like it should. It would shoot about 7-10 times and then get stuck, No chuffs. Then I'd either have to degas or push on the bolt in the rear position and only sometimes that would reset. When it did shoot, it was consistently 280 +/-5 over the chronograph with a 684 bore. I feel like I am missing something really stupid. Is something from the factory out of spec? For 630 dollars out of the box, I think it should at least run. It is a damn nice looking paperweight though. Is there anyone else out there that could shed some light before I part this thing out.
I ordered a new mag from AGD 2 weeks ago and I have had some issues since it came out of the box. It has been a while since I have played with one, but not completely new to them, having owned an EMag and had the privilege to own an Xmodded XMag (should have never sold it!).
Maybe the gurus can help me out because I have been beating my head on the desk trying to get this gun to run at least half of the time.
Setup: RT ULE XValve'd w/ULT just like is on the current AGD website. Took about a week to get to me. Came with this real nice AGD microfiber towel!
68/4500 w/ Ninja V2 reg @800PSI,
OG Crossfire red label regulator @~850 on a gauge
PMI PE 800psi preset regulator
Macroline is setup from bottom ASA to foregrip, then to upper v. ASA to valve. No leaks
Broke it down, oiled the living guts out of it.
Put air on it, held the trigger in, and it gassed up fine. Started to dry fire it, making sure not to short stroke, fired a few times, and the sear actuation pin wasn't returning and getting stuck, like the on/off assembly was messed up. I could sometimes manually "reset" the bolt with my finger, pushing the on/off back down and get the gun back to a firing state. Sometimes, I would have to completely degas the valve. I then thought it was a bolt stick issue. Pulled apart the gun, cleaned for any debris, inspected orings/seals etc. Carrier was too tight and had 3 shims in it. Followed the L10 instructions to the T, removed the powertube shims, found the biggest carrier that didn't leak and that would allow the gun to cycle. Using the gold spring that came factory with the gun. This was a marginal improvement. Also tried the red spring for kicks, no change. Still having cycling issues. Made sure there was a credit card sized gap between the trigger and sear actuation pin. Replaced orings in ULT, oiled the hell out of it. Tried multiple combinations of shims in the ULT. It came from the factory with 3. I saw a thread where Tuna said to start with 2. No change with any combination of shims. Unfortunately, I do not have a regular RT on/off to rule out an ULT issue. The sear pin bolt is tight but not over tight, the valve thumbscrew is tight but not over tight. I have tried different tank regs, cranked the velocity, changed the sear actuation pin lengths, tried setting up the L10 to I believe A Thomas's recommendations/instructions and the little printed manual that came with the gun.
I cooked 3 4500psi fills before walking away from it. It was still not running like it should. It would shoot about 7-10 times and then get stuck, No chuffs. Then I'd either have to degas or push on the bolt in the rear position and only sometimes that would reset. When it did shoot, it was consistently 280 +/-5 over the chronograph with a 684 bore. I feel like I am missing something really stupid. Is something from the factory out of spec? For 630 dollars out of the box, I think it should at least run. It is a damn nice looking paperweight though. Is there anyone else out there that could shed some light before I part this thing out.
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