Found Old Hyperframe Automag - Want to build it out

[theedge6342000]

Hey guys,

Not sure if this is the forum for this. Feel free to move it if need be. Found an old Automag with an after market body and a hyperframe. I believe the hyperframe is working fine. Turned it on and everything displays and reacts fine. Was looking for information/help on building it out. My assumption is X-Valve with Lvl 10 bolt. Plug the eye spot. Standard Threaded barrel.

Anything I should look out for while building this out? Any suggestions? I'd love to turn this into a fun and cool rig.

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[mr.mag218]

thats for the detent..dont plug it with anything but a new one, get an rt foregrip bracket and foregrip, xvalve with various on offs will work..depends on how fast you're trying to shoot. enjoy the build man!

[theedge6342000]

Being completely honest, it's been about a decade since I picked up a paintball marker. I was into it big time in the mid 2000's around 2005-2008. I was in the military stationed in Guam and being young and not having much to do with the money I was earning I built 3 autocockers, still have a working Devilmag and wanted to build a custom automag. It was fun stuff. But long story short, I'm not versed enough to know what the levels of on/offs give me. Let's just say I'm aiming for a high fire rate? What am I looking for? Have no idea when it comes to the tiers of on/offs and their pros and cons.

[mr.mag218]

think with an xvalve the stock on off will work, or get a ult kit to ensure one shot per pull.

[BigEvil]

emag on/off .712 pin, try both the quad oring and a standard top oring.

[mr.mag218]

Will the stock xvalve pin work? I thought it would just rt a bit more than desired, but dont want to give bad advice. I've used one before, but i also break stuff and learn the hard way more than I care to admit.

[athomas]

The biggest issue with these hyperframe solenoids was the consistency to pull the sear properly. The ULT on-off solved this. An emag 0.712" pin would be the next best option if you want to use a standard X-valve on-off.

That "aftermarket" body is actually an AGD ULE body and has autococker threads. The hole is for detents. It takes angel threaded detents.

[BigEvil]

The biggest issue with these hyperframe solenoids was the consistency to pull the sear properly. The ULT on-off solved this. An emag 0.712" pin would be the next best option if you want to use a standard X-valve on-off.

That "aftermarket" body is actually an AGD ULE body and has autococker threads. The hole is for detents. It takes angel threaded detents.

Actually, the ULT has reset issues. A lot of times it does not have enough force to reset, especially if the solenoid is mucky and doesn't move freely. I have been using Emag .712 or RT .740 pins in them. The centerflag on/of is basically a .740 rt pin with a classic on/off bottom.

The other key thing is to increase the 'dwell' on the solenoid on-time. With aftermarket boards its easy. I forget how to access this on the Centerflag ones. An increased dwell gives the solenoid a little more power to move the sear.

[athomas]

Actually, the ULT has reset issues. A lot of times it does not have enough force to reset, especially if the solenoid is mucky and doesn't move freely. I have been using Emag .712 or RT .740 pins in them. The centerflag on/of is basically a .740 rt pin with a classic on/off bottom.

The other key thing is to increase the 'dwell' on the solenoid on-time. With aftermarket boards its easy. I forget how to access this on the Centerflag ones. An increased dwell gives the solenoid a little more power to move the sear.

Yeah, you have to keep them clean. Often, users were able to get the ULT to work in these frames when the centerflag on-offs wouldn't work. I guess it depends on the frame and setup. I suspect the emag pin with emag quad oring would help with the on-off friction part of the force compared to the OEM centerflag setup.

The key for dwell on a mag is to hold the sear back long enough to allow the bolt to reset. That prevents the rubbing of the bolt on the sear reduces the force needed to rotate the sear back to the reset position, and it decreases sear and bolt wear as well. Its a balancing act. You want to set it long enough to cycle the bolt, but no longer because you want to conserve battery life.