x-mag not firing in E or hybrid mode

[dahoeb]

Xmag was tested before purchase and functioned. Disassembled and sent it off for ano. Came back and i reassembled it. During reassemble the power on/off switch broke off the board, not a big deal, i soldered it back on. Inserted battery, and clicked the switch and the board powered up. I pull the trigger...nothing.

I cycle through the xmod 1.8 options, i verify that ACE is turned off. I put the battery back in the charger to verify it was good (no low battery indicators, board is brightly lit).

I deduce that I probably damaged the hall sensor during reinstall, so I order a new one. The new hall sensor did not resolve the problem.

I verified the magnet was properly adjusted toward the sensor, even holding a magnet directly (tried both polar ends) on it just to be sure that wasn't the issue.

Set the board mode to "MOD PR-T" to see if it registers any kind of trigger activation. Nothing.

No solenoid activity, seemingly no hall sensor activity. I gotta be missing something stupid here.

edit: is it possible the switch was not properly soldered or that ace board was damaged during the soldering in a way that would cause the main board to still illuminate but not activate the the solenoid/hall sensor? I could try bypass the board probably, basically wire it like a standard emag if you guys think the ACE board is damaged. thanks.

[Tunaman]

did you run a tap through the board mounting hole and the ground lug hole?

[dahoeb]

This one? He kept it bare from anodizing (the outside of the hole, at least), but i didnt do any extra work to it.

4A15C15B-CFE5-4173-93CD-83E51A04B296.jpg

[dahoeb]

The ground lug hole For the battery terminal still had some ano On it....should i scrape some of it away for better contact? I just pressed the lug back into the hole.

[Tunaman]

you have to clean both of them out or it wont work. Also...look at the ground lug. These are supposed to be tossed out when taken out but you can clean the old one if you take your time.

[dahoeb]

update: i removed the negative terminal lug for the battery, scratched a lot of ano off the outside around the head of the lug and the inside, and then reseated the lug. A lot of exposed aluminum for it to make contact with. And then i touched up where the main board contacts the frame. Still no luck. Tomorrow I'll re-tap the negative terminal lug just to make sure that there is no doubt that it has more than enough solid contact.

[dahoeb]

update 2: tapped the negative battery terminal to 6/32, snugged in a screw and still no success. The only possible thing that might be affecting the performance of that terminal at this point is a little residual oil that might be present in the hole. I'm at a loss.

[dahoeb]

Turns out having a magnet on the trigger magnet mount helps trip the hall sensor.

Right now, everytime the hall sensor is affected enough to trip, the board display loses power. Doesn't matter how far back i adjust the trigger magnet. I checked the ground continuity, it's at .2 ohms, so I'm not sure if this is still a ground issue. Anyways, going to try making sure the battery has a fresh charge and will continue tinkering later.

[Beemer]

Try adjusting the trigger magnet closer.

[athomas]

Turns out having a magnet on the trigger magnet mount helps trip the hall sensor.

Right now, everytime the hall sensor is affected enough to trip, the board display loses power. Doesn't matter how far back i adjust the trigger magnet. I checked the ground continuity, it's at .2 ohms, so I'm not sure if this is still a ground issue. Anyways, going to try making sure the battery has a fresh charge and will continue tinkering later.

I certainly sounds like a connection issue somewhere. I would have expected one of the scenarios that Tunaman mentioned.

Another thing to mention is to check the sensor magnet setting. If it is too close to the hall effect sensor when the board boots up, the board won't boot properly. It usually shows nothing or garbled characters, but it never hurts to check the distance. It probably isn't that since you mentioned the hall sensor activating when you pull the magnet closer.

If you have access to small alligator clips and wires, take the battery out and connect it using the clips. Then measure the battery voltage when you pull the trigger. If it collapses, then you know the problem is at the battery. If it doesn't, then the problem is near the board. If the problem is near the board, measure the voltage at the board where the wires connect and pull the trigger. If the voltage collapses, then the problem is in the wiring or connections leading to the board. If not, then the problem is on the board itself.

You should be able to trace the problem and determine if it is a battery, connection issue, or board issue.

[dahoeb]

fixed. The board had some residue or corrosion on the terminal side of the ground. I took a pencil eraser, cleaned it up. Cleaned the threads a little more with a properly sized tap as well, and everything seems to be working normally at this point. I've had the worst luck with the other xmag and emag that I once owned, I'm hoping this one can now change that for me! Thanks for the help everyone.

[Nobody]

I just hand my emag to the mag whisper or tuna when it doesn't go 'pew pew pew'. So i am spoiled.