What did I do wrong? X valve leak

[trbo323]

Ok, so I'm betting I haven't read all of the stickies yet but enough to realize that my issue seems a little odd. I'm still a bit of a mag newbie but not a paintball newbie.

X valve, 900 psi input. Fresh rebuild with agd rebuild kit, plenty of oil. Carrier size 0 and no shims (the white Teflon washer thing is there though)

It has a small leak down the barrel and it chuffs when you try to fire. Sometimes you can get it to fire a handful of times in a row but not all the time.

If I go up in carrier, it just leaks a little more.

So a few things just to make sure I have them right

1) on the carrier, the o ring is on the back side right?

2) is the Teflon washer supposed to be there right? Behind the carrier as well?

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[captian pinky]

Yes and yes.
Make sure you are shooting at velocity as in if you can get it to shoot make sure it is chronoed. It is common for people to not understand mags do weird stuff at low velocity.


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[trbo323]

Yes and yes.
Make sure you are shooting at velocity as in if you can get it to shoot make sure it is chronoed. It is common for people to not understand mags do weird stuff at low velocity.


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Good call, forgot about that. BRB

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[trbo323]

Ok, velocity was very low when I started but I got it up to the 280 range. Here's what's going on now

Decent leak down the barrel, but the chuffs are pretty much gone. The one exception is if I pull the trigger slowly. With light pressure on the trigger, the barrel leak stops but it also will not fire when I pull it slowly

I forgot to mention, it's a ULE on/off as well. Not sure if that effects things or not

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[vintage]

it's most likely the ULE on/off. if you have an rt one swap them and see.

[Tunaman]

Go down to a #00 carrier or change the oring and try again.

[trbo323]

it's most likely the ULE on/off. if you have an rt one swap them and see.

I don't have an rt. It's on my to do list. Should I add/remove shims from the ULE?

Go down to a #00 carrier or change the oring and try again.

I did not know sizes 00 and 000 existed. I will order some. It is a brand new o ring though

How are those marked?

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[Tunaman]

I don't have an rt. It's on my to do list. Should I add/remove shims from the ULE?I did not know sizes 00 and 000 existed. I will order some. It is a brand new o ring though

How are those marked?

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The #00 carriers are marked with 1 line on the bottom, as opposed to the standard carriers which are marked on the top. I have them here if you need them. Just because the oring is new does not mean it is within spec..that is what these carriers are for. always check the oring fit first by inserting it in the carrier and checking it on the stem of the bolt. They should be snug...not tight or loose.

[trbo323]

The #00 carriers are marked with 1 line on the bottom, as opposed to the standard carriers which are marked on the top. I have them here if you need them. Just because the oring is new does not mean it is within spec..that is what these carriers are for. always check the oring fit first by inserting it in the carrier and checking it on the stem of the bolt. They should be snug...not tight or loose.

Yeah there's some friction on the 0 carrier. I'm not sure if it's enough. These rings came from AGD.

So the 1 carrier and 00 both have a single line on them just on different sides? great, that won't be confusing

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[luke]

If you have a set of calipers you can just measure the ID and ignore the marks, much easier in my opinion.

IMG_5171.JPG

[Tunaman]

Yeah there's some friction on the 0 carrier. I'm not sure if it's enough. These rings came from AGD.

So the 1 carrier and 00 both have a single line on them just on different sides? great, that won't be confusing

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Its not confusing if you lay out your carriers in order of size, all facing with the oring side up, put them in separate marked bags, and leave them there. Makes it very easy. I do this every level 10 I tune.