Emag Trigger Issues

[djsubert]

Gents,

I'm working through my second project Emag and am having issues with the circuit board registering a trigger pull.

Light History:
-The Emag only intermittently register a trigger pull regardless of magnet position when first purchased.
-The classic allen wrench/magnet test did not register a shot either.
-I ponied up for a new HES to find the Emag no longer registers a shot regardless of magnet position.
-The Emag board powers up just fine with version 1.37.
-Solenoid plunger moves freely when solenoid is tilted 45 degrees
-Solenoid measure 3.1Ohms (with spool installed)
-Currently solenoid does not click and shot counter does not increment
-My multi-meter measures +5VDC between the HES yellow wire & board ground. This is also true between the red wire and board ground.

Before I break down the frame again and start probing the circuit board, is there anything simple I'm missing?

Does anyone of tips/tricks for this issue or an Emag circuit board schematic?

Thanks in Advance!

[Tunaman]

First of all you need to get rid of 1.37 and use at least 3.2. It has a trigger test function that is necessary to adjust the trigger correctly. You have no way of knowing if the trigger magnet is too close and not disengaging when the trigger is released...which I think is your problem. Knock the trigger pin out and remove the trigger. Then take just the magnet and see if you can activate the hall sensor. It is also possible that either the board or frame ground is not conducting fully. Make sure to check those. Let me know.

[djsubert]

[djsubert]

First of all you need to get rid of 1.37 and use at least 3.2. It has a trigger test function that is necessary to adjust the trigger correctly. You have no way of knowing if the trigger magnet is too close and not disengaging when the trigger is released...which I think is your problem. Knock the trigger pin out and remove the trigger. Then take just the magnet and see if you can activate the hall sensor.

You called it. I removed the magnet from the trigger and tried the magnet/allen wrench test. The marker registered the trigger pull after I moved the magnet out of the trigger guard.

I then re-installed the magnet in the trigger to find the same symptoms again even with the magnet fully adjusted inside the trigger.

I then remembered that I was using a replacement rail magnet. I saved the original trigger magnet (worn off coating) and noticed it’s roughly 1/2 the thickness.

After re-installing the original trigger magnet, the trigger pulls were consistently registered. I’m a little suprised at how far inside the trigger the magnet resides. That would explain why the rail magnet didn’t work for the trigger.

It is also possible that either the board or frame ground is not conducting fully. Make sure to check those. Let me know.

I do still plan to tinker a bit though. It took two installs of the original magnet to register trigger pulls (maybe upside down or perhaps the stronger magnet magnetized the trigger magnet holder).

My meter shows a good connection between the frame batt- stud and the batt- pin of the HES. I shook the frame a few times and found it measured consistently.

I plan to pull the board one last time and ensure the underside of the board is clean where it picks up the frame ground. I did notice one of the solenoid connections is very close to the anodized frame. I added a little electrical tape to the frame to help.

I’m a little bothered by having to install the original magnet a few times. There’s nothing worse then something “just working” without knowing why…..says the recovering Embedded Systems Software Engineer.

Hope the long post helps the next guy. I do enjoy tinkering with AGD markers. The engineer in me marvels at how well thought out their designs are.

Regarding SW updates…is that something you (Tuna) still do?

[Tunaman]

You called it. I removed the magnet from the trigger and tried the magnet/allen wrench test. The marker registered the trigger pull after I moved the magnet out of the trigger guard.

I then re-installed the magnet in the trigger to find the same symptoms again even with the magnet fully adjusted inside the trigger.

I then remembered that I was using a replacement rail magnet. I saved the original trigger magnet (worn off coating) and noticed it’s roughly 1/2 the thickness.

After re-installing the original trigger magnet, the trigger pulls were consistently registered. I’m a little suprised at how far inside the trigger the magnet resides. That would explain why the rail magnet didn’t work for the trigger.







I do still plan to tinker a bit though. It took two installs of the original magnet to register trigger pulls (maybe upside down or perhaps the stronger magnet magnetized the trigger magnet holder).

My meter shows a good connection between the frame batt- stud and the batt- pin of the HES. I shook the frame a few times and found it measured consistently.

I plan to pull the board one last time and ensure the underside of the board is clean where it picks up the frame ground. I did notice one of the solenoid connections is very close to the anodized frame. I added a little electrical tape to the frame to help.

I’m a little bothered by having to install the original magnet a few times. There’s nothing worse then something “just working” without knowing why…..says the recovering Embedded Systems Software Engineer.

Hope the long post helps the next guy. I do enjoy tinkering with AGD markers. The engineer in me marvels at how well thought out their designs are.

Regarding SW updates…is that something you (Tuna) still do?

Sure. Send me an email to [email protected] and I'll update the software for you

[djsubert]

Just an update. I had a chance to break down the frame one last time.

There were no signs of corrosion on the circuit board plated screw holes or the grip frame screw. I also measured the resistance of the frame grounding stud at the battery pack and found good continuity.

Looks like the trigger issue was indeed the magnetic field not disengaging when the trigger was released.