Power Tube Spacer Dimensions

[StaticShocked]

I got back into paintball after 22 years away and wanted a Automag again (really just want my gen 3 micromag back, should have never sold it) so i purchased a basket case of a marker off of eBay with spare parts and a classic valve. I have put a rebuild kit into it and it shot fine for the first 500 shots but now has developed a bad case of bolt stick. The power tube spacer installed in it is a .220 and i think it is the wrong size for the ANS Phase 2 bolt that came in the valve. Airgundesigns.com is out of the spacer kit so i am going to make some new ones to test to fix the bolt stick.

My questions are:

1. What is the correct inside diameter of the power tube spacer when new? Mine checks .254", but i am thinking that it could be worn. I want to ensure that the new power tube spacers have the correct ID.

2. Bonus question: Can someone identify the on/off top used in this valve, and should i replace it with stock? I can't think of how it would negatively affect performance/reliability, but maybe it could?



I played with it yesterday (it worked for the first few games), and the Automag is such a great marker. Brings back fond memories.

[captian pinky]

I have a small mountain of powertube spaces and i think it is aka.

[Tunaman]

all the powertube spacers have the same ID. The length is what is important. If it is leaking try a longer one.

[StaticShocked]

all the powertube spacers have the same ID. The length is what is important. If it is leaking try a longer one.

Ok. So it is probably the correct ID and if it was locking up (as in bolt was really hard to remove from valve assembly) , but not leaking, does that mean a shorter spacer?

[StaticShocked]

I have a small mountain of powertube spaces and i think it is aka.

Thanks! So it is a legitimate component and not some modification / mutilation of a factory part.

[Tunaman]

get rid of the ans bolt before it wipes out your sear.

[StaticShocked]

get rid of the ans bolt before it wipes out your sear.

Thanks for the heads up. I ordered a stock lvl 7 foamless bolt from ebay listed as new. Is there a reason why ANS bolts harm the sears like it is a harder material or maybe just the design of the sear seating area?

The marker came with a ANS Phase II regulator which I replaced with a AGD one from ebay (i was getting significant velocity variations two weekends ago, the consensus on the web seems to be ANS parts on an automag valve do not work well, so i replaced it).

I took the power tube spacer from .220 to .215 and that seems to have fixed the bolt stick. I ordered some bronze stock and will make a new spacers to get the AGD bolt setup once it comes in to ensure it seals up and works correctly if the .215 does not work with it. I played with it yesterday without any issues.

I think i may have a problem. I keep looking at automag builds and am dreaming of building an ultra light mag...



Photo for fun, this was my MicroMag and 2k Autococker i finished building both in 2003 but then stopped playing that year (the autococker is right feed was milled for the eblade eye which was fully functional). The photo is from 2005 when i was selling them. Should have kept the micomag. All barrels and accessories were anodized dust red to match each other.

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