Problems with my mag!!

[Night_Stalker]

[Polishpickles451]

Whatever is causing your problem, I can't be sure, but you should be able to fix it all. First take out the valve and separate the bolt. Clean is very carefully. Separate your mainbodt from the trigger frame. Clean all these pieces in hot water. Clean the barrel well too. Now, with your gun in clean pieces, lubricate them with gun oil, and put them back together. The double feeding is nubbin related problem, watch the video for help with that. The cause of this problem is most lickely short stroking the trigger. It will cause you to break paint and the paint in the bolt makes those strange sounds. make sure to let the trigger out all the way before firing, you can still fire fast but you have to ger used to the motion.
Your gun should work fine now. But as far as Co2, never ever shoot a Mag on Co2 without a decent (4 stages minimum) expansion chamber. Un-expanded Co2 causes many problems with your gun.
Good luck.

[Night_Stalker]

I have an ACI SubZero 6 stages expansion chamber.
I will do what you told me, i hope i can fix this problem.

Thanks

[Quiet]

Your problem sounds familiar, I may have had it once.

Make sure you get anti-siphon in your tank. I used that set-up for a while. You can get a metal HPA tank really cheap these days, I'd strongly recommend the investment. To get a mag to run well on CO2 you will end up putting as much money into it as you would spend going HPA (maybe more), and have a lot more hassles on the way.

Your mag will never work to it's potential running CO2.

[paintsprayer]

i had the smae problem with my used 68 classic when i first got it. it didn't come with a manual, so i had to figure it out. what i did was take it all appart, clean the pieces, oil, and put it back together. remember to dry fire about 25 times without the barrel, so that the oil will cycle through the gun.

P.S. dont use an anti-siphon tank with a remote. use a regular tank.

[lefty07]

I've had the same (or simular) problem on 3 separate 68 Automags this winter. Two are on Hyperframes, and third is an old 68 Automag. They were all shooting HPA. Outside temperature was -10oC or so (Canada winterball).
We've cleaned & stripped them completely. All new seals, throughout the Mag. They still do it once in a while. The older Automag does it quite regularly. The sear has been replaced, as with the bolt. We figured it should be in the on-off o-rings or pin. Changing seals doesn't help (done 4-5 times on the old Mag).

The problem was an full auto affect.

On the Hyperframe (mine), it would shoot anywhere between 10-30 balls in 1-2 seconds, but they would only travel 10-15'. With fresh batteries on my 12 Revy, I wouldn't chop paint.
By pulling the trigger (sometimes repeatedly), it would stop, and it would work fine again. There was a massive air consumption at the same time.

The other Hyperframe would do the same but usually only 10 balls or so would go through.

Tha Older Automag would do the same thing, but generally would goop it up. 10 balls or more and then stop with a huge mess. The marker would then function properly.

It's quite weird. Any suggestions. We are quite familiar with Automags, and have used them for 8 years.

Thanks.

[BEEFYSAUSAGE]

ok

well i use to run my mag on co2 all the time...i had a remote with a expansion chamber running staight to my valve,
i had very few problems ...the only time that it would give me trouble was when i was trying to shoot 20+ round strings or constantly fire,what i worked out is you have to let your system warm up so the pressure rises in your tank again,just shoot when you have to and try to let it warm up as much as you can in between bursts..hope this helps
BEEFY.

[BEEFYSAUSAGE]

lefty...

what type of lube ya using??
if its cold out side paint usaly gets realy brittle(doesent matter if its "winter paint" or not)
BEEFY.

[Night_Stalker]

Thanks To all for answering my question so quickly.
Here in argentina we dont have lots of brans of amunition.
We only have RP Sherer, Snyper Pro.
From Sherer whe only have the BigBall and some times they bring the Marbalaizer or the Gator Black.
I am using a blue lube, i cant remember the name.
i think that i will have time during my weekend to clean the gun properly, the i will tell how it goes.

Thanks to all

Night

[pip_999]

your freezing the valve

by freezing the valve the bolt isnt moving and then the bolt is coming forward to hit the balls.

and now that this is happeneing your reg seat is probably torn away to pieces so your are going to have to replace that asap, and also there maybe some o-rings that are busted in your valve replace tehm all, tehn put some oil in teh asa and let off some shots, and put in 2 drops in the oil sports which are in teh valve at the back.

[lefty07]

The Automags problem isn't from shooting too much, which might freeze the valve. It will do this in the middle of no or slow shooting, but it will stop. Maybe the valve is freezing up.

I use Automag lube on all the Automags.

The paintballs are breaking from chopping them in the feed port. The paintballs are fine.

All seals look fine in all the Automags, but have been replaced anyway. Especially the Reg seat & on-off o-rings.

It just weird. We've played down to -20oC in other years without any trouble (foamie bolts are the best). We stage from a heated building & play hopper ball only. The paint is rotated out between games to warm up. I will write an article on winter ball for next winter. We've played winter ball for 5 years here in Canada.

[pip_999]

nah man

its got something to do with teh fact that he is shooting to fast

by shooting to fast it is giving the co2 in his macro line less time to warm-up and it is forcing liquid into his valve, then that is making the valve freeze

[lefty07]

The 3 Automags are on HPA.

[BEEFYSAUSAGE]

ok

choping you say lefty maybe hopper not doing its job???
(flat or week battery,eye covered with dirt or something??)
nubbin not adjusted properly?
BEEFY.