Can a Warp Feed too fast?

[Halliday]

I have a problem with chopping paint in my Mag. Here's the stats:
PF Classic Mag (with the older bolt)
Hyperframe (installed by Centerflag)
Clear AGD Warp Feed (feeding from the bottom of the PF, all dwell jumpers on)
Ricochet hopper (with newer motor)
Crossfire 68/3000 stub

Using my Warp, I break about every 5th ball. I have adjusted the PT spacer and the wire nubbins. I have tried a longnose bolt. The only time I can get any non-breaking consistancy is when I just use the hopper on top of the Mag.

It seems to me that the Warp if feeding the balls TOO hard, because setting the Hyperframe on 10bps I had no problems using the regular hopper and elbow. I checked and the ball sits in the chamber fine, with no pinching. I have looked at the sticky regarding the adapter height, but I'm not using a adapter. I think that the Warp is jamming the balls too tight and the closeness is causing the breaks.

Any suggestions on how to fix my breaking problem? Thanks.

[than205]

Take one (or two) of the dwell jumpers off.

[Halliday]

Ok. I will also spread some vegatable oil on the Warp disks.

[BlackVCG]

Answer these questions and we'll fix your problem.

What kind of paint are you using?

Are you using plastic nubbins?

I'm assuming you're using the extra long PF plug. Does the plug hang over the inside of the feed tube just a hair so that there isn't a lip that the paint can hang on?

What is your dwell setting on the Warp?

Is the Warp spinning EVERY time you fire the gun?

[Halliday]

1) Different kinds of paint. GAP, Big Ball, PMI. It all gets busted.

2) Wire P and Wire V nubbins.

3) Extra-long plug. It pushed all the way in.

4) I said that in the 1st post, all the jumpers are on.

5) Yes it spins.

I have read about the disks slipping, and they don't on mine. They either push the balls or stop spinning when the balls are all in line. I'm starting to think that the non-slipping disks may be causing too much pressure.

[virus]

welp i see 2 types of the "advatange" shell paint.....

from what i have read, seen, and experienced with the dry shell paints.... you get maybe a case out of the battery for the warp and then its either change it out or deal with a blender.... and that goes for all types of markers.... there are about 4-5 warps at my local field (me/mag, angel, timmy, cocker and some kid with a spyder every now and then) and we are all stuck using the pmi dry shell and we and most others there can telll when anyone of us needs a new battery in our warp... first there is a little cussin (just a little) then there is alot more movement on our parts on the field as we go bunkerslapping (indoor field with a no bunkering rule) and if it is 2 of us at the same time we either get shot out real quick or the game ends in under 1 min =) it just depends how ambitious we get


but try changing your battery and take 2 jumpers off... also stay away from the cheap 9v like the rayovac and the like and you should be ok

[hitech]

I would suggest you get the plastic nubbins. They work much better at keeping the paintballs from feeding to far. If they push even a little past the nubbin is chop city. Also, the disks need to slip past the paintballs. You said you were going to try oiling the disks. That would also be a good idea. Let us know how it goes.

[Halliday]

Update

I have greased the disks and that seems to have helped some. They now slip easily past the balls. Now I am thinking the balls are on the verge of double feeding. If I have one ball in the chamber and another in line, the 2nd ball seems a bit too far in. I have messed with my collection of P and V nubbins, and I think plastic ones are now in order.

[hitech]

Re: Update

Originally posted by Halliday
I have messed with my collection of P and V nubbins, and I think plastic ones are now in order.

I couldn't ever get the metal nubbins adjusted correctly. I've never had a problem with the plastic ones.

[FrAuStY]

Oooh OOoooh I know I know.. lol I don't even have a warp but who knows.. this may help.
Proper Ball stack
Who knows... it makes sense.. like your last post.. they're either too far in.. or not enough.. check that post and see if it helps any. Good luck.. I hope I don't have this many problems when I get my warp..

[Halliday]

Update #2

I put in fresh, out-of-the package Duracell in the Warp. Then I could tell it was not getting enough power form the Rayovac I had in it. The Rayovac was probally just about dead. I know have:

1) a fresh battery
2) 2 jumpers "on"
3) greased disks
4) V nubbin
5) new barrel o-rings

Overall, it seems better. Thanks for all the suggestions. Any more?

[Halliday]

Update #3

Spent the day at the field. Things are better, but not great. Still breaking paint, but only about 1 in every 100.

Thinking back, when I 1st started using my Warp, the exented plug did not go so far in, about a litle past the 2nd o-ring. Now it slides in quite far, with the plug cap touching the top of the feed tube. What I'm saying it it seems to go in farther, farther with more breaking than before when it never broke paint and the plug was not in so far.

Looks like I might need to make some adjustments to the set screws in the plug. Anybody think that THIS might be the cause of my breaking, having the extended plug in TOO far?

[than205]

Originally posted by BlackVCG


I'm assuming you're using the extra long PF plug. Does the plug hang over the inside of the feed tube just a hair so that there isn't a lip that the paint can hang on?

[/B]

So in a word maybe? Sounds like trial and error.
On a side note. For me I just bottom out the long plug.
My problem is a periodic short-stroke while in a speed ball game. I'm working on that.