Possible Warp and Retro

[StuDawggie]

I am looking to put the final upgrades onto my gun, and it's going to be a warp feed, and possibly a retro valve on my Mag classic 68. Anyhow, I'm just wondering how difficult they are to install. I am not the most mechanically inclined person in the world, but want to put these on as as a few final touches. And I'll be the first to admit I can screw just about anything up (it' took me over 3 hours to put a rear cocking system on my tippman, long story, so don't ask). So that's where I need your help. I'm just wondering how long it took you all to install your retro valves, and warps. The warps look pretty easy to do and I should be able to do it w/o too much cussing and swearing, however the reto may and probably will be a different story. So if you could just giveme an idea as to the difficulty level of this little task I'd appreciate it.

[gibby]

Actually, the hardest part for the Retro would probably be putting on the fittings. Making sure there are no leaks and what not. Some people use teflon tape or loctite to make sure there aren't any leaks on the fittings. Other than that, it's as easy as taking out your old valve and sliding it back in.

However, some adjustments might be made to the power tube spacers if there are leaks down the barrel or what not. This just involves screwing off the spacer and replacing it with a new one that comes with the RT Valve.

If you think the warp is easy to install, then you should be in good shape.

Good luck with your upgrades, you won't regret them!! Keep us posted on your upgrades and we love pictures!

Peace.

[FrAuStY]

The warp doesn't come with any installation instructions as there a like a gazillion ways to put it on your gun. The only problem I had with mine was the clear 90* adapter didn't wanna stay in the hose. (Hose is really made to connect directly to the powerfeed tube on the body of the gun. I fixed it with one wrap of Invisible tape (long winded scotch tape) Now it fits snug and won't come of if it gets hit. Main thing abou the warp is the run-in procedure which is described with the instructions.

The retro-valve as stated above will probably be a little more lengthy in installation.

However, some adjustments might be made to the power tube spacers if there are leaks down the barrel or what not. This just involves screwing off the spacer and replacing it with a new one that comes with the RT Valve.

I believe he meant to say un-screw the powertube tip.. and change out the spacer. The trouble shooting process is described in the manual but if you didn't get one.. you can check it out on Airgun.com. Here's the link to the manual so you'll have it
Automag 68/Minimag manual

[StuDawggie]

Originally posted by FrAuStY
Hose is really made to connect directly to the powerfeed tube on the body of the gun.

I have the standard feed on my gun is that going to cause a problem with hooking up the Warp or no? Cuz I've seen with the warp with power feeds, not a standard feed. It should still work somehow right?

[gibby]

Connecting the warp to the standard feed will still work. Depending on how you hold your gun, you'll probably end up wrapping the hose around your gun and use the 90* adapter. From what I heard before I got mine, you'd want to limit the distance it takes the paintballs to be loaded into the breach, and you want to keep the twists and turns down.

But if you can afford to buy yourself a powerfeed or warpfeed body, it would simplify the set up...otherwise, you should still be alright with the standard feed.

[Bartleby]

i would say run and drop 50 bucks on a blemished powerfeed body. I have my warp on the left so i got a hopper right mini mag and will run the hose directly to the bottom of the feed tube. Then i'll cut off the top of the tube and put in the normal powerfeed plug, which i have in purple to go with my color scheme.

[StuDawggie]

Okay enough!!!! I'm giving in and am ordering a new body from AGD. I got the raised tube power feed from the attic of the AGD store. Gotta have a different look to it. I'll post some pics once I get that body on and working. It's kinda on the funky looking side, but hey one it's powder coated and in running order it'll all be good. I also decided to hold off on the valve, and put the money into a trigger job to lighten up the trigger. One thing at a time, so that I'm not completely screwing up my gun.
Thanks for all the advice, and I'll be back, cuz let's face it 3 hours for a rear cocking system on a tippman, imagine how long a new body on a mag will take

[Bartleby]

can you be persuaded to reconsider on the trigger job?

[StuDawggie]

Originally posted by Bartleby
can you be persuaded to reconsider on the trigger job?

I can be pursuaded to do just about anything. Why are you asking? Is there something that you think woudl be better, or do you know of a way to lighten up my trigger pull myself without a lot of expense, so I can get the Retro? LMK if you do. I'm always up for suggestions.

[paintbattler]

all u do to the retro is slide it in...

[StuDawggie]

Originally posted by paintbattler
all u do to the retro is slide it in...

You make it sound so easy. But let me remind you... I spent over 3 hours putting in the rear cocking system, and that I was told was "really easy, it should only take 5-10 minutes".

[Bartleby]

the retro is just a replacement valve assembly...effectively. just attach to air connection, slide it in and screw it down, like you would your normal valve assembly. I have heard a few stories of it taking a bit of tinkering to get that retro working right, but should you have any problems just post them here or call AGD.

As for the trigger job i would recommend against it. I, personally, am not at all a big fan of custom modifications to the mechanical parts of my gun. I have heard too many stories about how people screw things up by trying for a lightened trigger pull. They can cause excessive wear and tear and that means excessive money spent. Should you get the retro, you can adjust the reactiveness of the trigger and how much it is forced back into position after you take a shot. Effectively there is a sweet spot that you can hold the trigger in position at basically enabling you to fire on full auto. I'm not too sure how effective it is or how many people have taken advantage of it but i do know it has been done.

Good luck with your purchases and i hope this helps.