Bottle adapter seal problem

[rx2]

Greetings,
Recently, I purchased a HPA system (which is set up with a pin-valve) for my Mag ('93). Since I will no longer have to worry about freezing, I have decided to try setting up my marker without running a remote, to see how it suits me. I fashioned a drop out of aluminum, and bolted my AGD supplied backbottle to it. Everything was fine until I tried screwing in the bottle, at which point air began spewing out of the adapter. It seems that the stem inside of the adapter is causing the valve to open too early, thus dissallowing a proper seal. I tried with my old CO2 tank (which had been run only through remote), and noticed the same problem. Both tanks work fine through the remote, and adaptors from other manufacturers, and the backbottle works fine with non-pin valves and connectors. Out of curiosity, I tried hooking up both tanks to another 'Mag with an AGD adaptor, and I noticed the same problem. This one is about four or five years old. At this point, I question the design of these adaptors, and suspect that they may not be entirely compatible with these valves.

Is the described problem common with this adaptor? If so, has the design been modified since then in order to rectify this?

If the adaptors currently being produced are the same as these earlier ones, rather than try another, my first plan of attack might be to file down the pin in the adaptor to allow the tank to be screwed in further before the valve opens. However, I don't want to do this if it won't work, or if it will cause the valve to open only partially, thus restricing flow (I don't have a gauge to measure this).
In the case that this would not be feasible for whatever reason, I will buy a new one. If the adaptors from AGD are still the same, then I will simply have to purchase one from another manufacturer. If the described problem is isolated to the two that I have used, then I may pick up an AGD adaptor when I order the LVL 10 kit.

Please let me know what the case is with the adaptors, and if you think filing down the adaptor pin might work.

Thank you.

[rikkter]

the tanks aren't being put in all the way. a nice on and off cradle works the best...

[rx2]

I know. I just want to pinch pennies to the best of my ability. The AGD adaptors seem to be the only ones giving me problems.

[rikkter]

personally i wouldn't file down my tanks. but then again those pins on the tanks might be very inexpensive so replace so. if you want go for it, i just like the on and off's cuz it saves a lot of air

[rx2]

I actually was talking about filing down the stem that actuates the valve in the adaptor. That is, filing down the inside of the adaptor so that it doesn't open the valve on the bottle so early. But, I think that I will just bite the bullet and shell out the few extra dollars.

[rikkter]

well that might work but then again it might now push the pin down all the way. just little things ya know

[cphilip]

After you are screwing it in and it starts spewing air are you continuing to screw it in and it bottoms out and still leaks?

[rx2]

The valve begins to open after only a few twists. The valve seems to be fully open before the o-ring engages the seal. As such, the force of the air rushing out sometimes pushes the o-ring out of the way, and disallows a complete seal. Even when I screw it in as far as I can, it still leaks a bit. However, I think that I can logically conclude that there is no problem with the seal under normal conditions, as botht the bottle and the adapter had worked with my remote system. The adaptor also worked with a tank equipped with a knob-actuated on/off valve. I think that if the valve were opened later, allowing the o-ring to form a bteer seal, then there would not be this problem, as the air rushing past the ring would not throw it out of proper alignment.
I can't seem to obtain the proper tools at this time to file down the adapter stem, so I think that I will just purchase a new one. If I can, though, I will try filing down the stem in the adapter, incrementally, to see if I can obtain a proper seal. First, though, I am going to check everything with my micrometer.
Anyone happen to have a figure on the minimal displacement of the pin needed to acheive maximal airflow through a standard pin-valve?

[rikkter]

spares never hurt

[rx2]

That is for sure!

[FrAuStY]

Did you put any oil on the o-ring? My spyder (rofl backup gun) does this if the o-ring is dry. Normally a dab of oil allows it to seal even if some gas escapes prior to tightening.

[rx2]

I did lubricate the o-ring (man, that sounds awful), regardless, it still did not allow for a proper seal. I noticed that when my tank is down to perhaps 500 psi or so, the problem lessens. Eventually, when the pressure is low enough, the seal works properly. Any tank, though, will not work when charged to a useable level, and this is with two AGD adaptors.

[mykroft]

Take a Dremel and shorten the pin in one of your ASA's, that should work. Also be sure you are using a Bottle O-Ring and not a Spyder striker O-Ring, they look nearly identical, but cause problems when switched.

[rx2]

These are definately bottle o-rings. They are the same style I have been using for the past nine years (hard to believe it has been so long). I am currently withough a rotary tool, but I am oing to give it shot for posterity, once I get things back in order tool-wise.

[Polishpickles451]

i put an o ring at the bottom of my ASA. This will prevent all kinds of leaks and you won't have the trouble to busting an oring on your tank.