Emag-warp problems

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  • lamby
    A.K.A Spanker
    • Oct 2002
    • 394

    #1

    Emag-warp problems

    I have an E-Mag that is warp fed and I am having a problem. The warp sometimes decides not to spin when I am hammering on the trigger causing mis-feeds, and sometimes barrel breaks (prob a unrelated issue). I was in a tourney on Sunday and noticed this twice. I went to the range and watched the warp, and sure enough, there were points I was firing 3-4 shots without the warp spinning at all.

    My setup at the time was:

    two(2) dwell jumpers in
    positive (+) jumper in
    vibration jumper in

    For the last game I went and pulled out the vibration jumper (I was then Positive only) and did not have one problem.

    First question
    With the vibration sensor jumper in, why does the warp spin a different amount based on the tap of the housing? A light tap might give me a 1/32 rotation when a firm tap would give me a full 1/4 turn (same as my sensor mode from the emag)I was under the impresion when I bought this unit that the circuit board controlled all motor function (delay, dwell ect...) and had multiple trigger sources.

    Secong question
    will the sensor mode and vibration mode interfer with each other? I would guess they complement, but what is with the little 1/32 rotations on a light vibration?

    Third question
    Is the sensor output of the emag directly tied into the firing circuit? ie. is it possible to fire the marker in e-mode and not send a pulse to the warp connector? I would guess not, but you never know.

    I do not want to run the warp in sensor mode only, as that would reck havoc if the E-Mag battery died. My major objective is I have to be able to shoot a ball EVERY time I bump the trigger not 95% of the time. That is why I bought the warp in the first place.


    Thank you for reading this huge post. I hope there is some warp guru out there that could explain this, to keep me from reverse engineering the warp board.


    Thanks,
    Lamby
    Last edited by lamby; 10-28-2002, 08:44 AM.
  • Dayspring
    aka- The Day Wang

    • May 2001
    • 9664

    #2
    1) Because that's how the sensor works. Small tap, small spin. Bigger tap, bigger spin.

    2) If you read the directions, the sensor and vibration jumpers should be installed at the same time. the sensor will work as long as the gun is sending the impulse. Otherwise, the vibration will kick in and spin the wheel.

    3) If you have the interlink cable for the Emag, the pulse is sent EVERY trigger pull. You may be having a problem with a short somewhere in the line. Check the wires.

    I think there's a problem with your setup somehow, b/c my warp will spin every time my trigger is pulled. I have 3 dwell jumpers in (should be up and down, not across the board) and the vibration and sensor (for emag) jumpers installed. It works perfectly. Just a thoght. Check what I posted and get back to us,

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    • Shirow
      www.digitalgunfire.com
      • Aug 2002
      • 2023

      #3
      I was at the tourney with lamby and saw this happening first hand - I was sitting with his mag hammering the trigger and there would be noticable periods with no warp spin.

      Shorted wire was my first suggestion, but we did try messing w/ jumpers etc too to change the dwell time and it didn't really seem to fix it. I think removing the vibration sensor was just coincidence. On an unrelated note, my intellifeed on my miniretromag worked great all tournament - I love mags!!
      Superbolt

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      • Shirow
        www.digitalgunfire.com
        • Aug 2002
        • 2023

        #4
        bump to help a mad cow
        Superbolt

        Comment

        • lamby
          A.K.A Spanker
          • Oct 2002
          • 394

          #5
          I will look

          Thank you for your reply dayspring:

          I can't see a short happening, but there may be an intermitant contact in the wire or connector (partial open). I will have to rip off the Hogue grips (not fun). My other theory is the triger pulse is happening when the wheel is already spinning and then it will not be able to initiate a spin due the fact that it is already spinning. Again this is only a theory. If this is possible, maybe I have too much dwell. You are using 3 jumpers, I will try to go with 4 and work my way down. I am not sure, but I think 4 jumpers equals about a 2 ball rotation that would still be ok.

          My warp was also slightly off of the tank, Steve D. told me that I need to slide the warp to the tank to aid in vibration transfer. This made sense to me and I will try that next time too.

          Shirow, what was the problem that you had with your warp? was is not spinning, or not forcing the ball sin the marker? I talked to Steve this morning and he said your "warp was spinning but the balls were not coming out and feeding the gun" did you have a kinked feed line?

          Go Mad Cows.
          Shirow, I sent you an e-mail

          Comment

          • Shirow
            www.digitalgunfire.com
            • Aug 2002
            • 2023

            #6
            Good luck getting it fixed, Lamb

            Mine was just not feeding into the hose. I didn't appear to have a kinked line or anything, it may have just been a greasy ball or one of those 'one off' things. I need to shoot the warp more to find out what the problem was. It fixed itself though.

            Got the mail, check the reply
            Superbolt

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