Making A tank...sorta

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  • sniper1rfa
    (Not a Wang Force member.)
    • Aug 2001
    • 1107

    #16
    definately post if you can find it.

    dawson, until then, compromise with blue. :-)
    "The Fine Print: Discontinue use if your eyeballs suddenly get way smaller."

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    • GPZ1170
      SARGENT CIRCUS MONKEY
      • Apr 2002
      • 184

      #17
      More fuel for the fire

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      • kevmaster
        Owners Group Div: Director
        • Oct 2001
        • 5475

        #18
        im sure ill get an answer eventually.....lol!

        maybe i shoulda keep calling every hour on teh hour untill they respond...hehe

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        • theraidenproject
          Registered User
          • Jun 2001
          • 1240

          #19
          Dawson, just FYI, at http://store.yahoo.com/actionvillage/030-1300.html they have a Carlton 68/45 tank (in the co2 tanks section ). At $190, it's $10-25 cheaper than the WDP tank. Please give us an update, I am very interested in this for myself.

          *edit* - A few questions, as well. First, since it doesn't have an on/off, what do you do? I don't want to leave my mag gassed up 24/7, or always have an empty tank. Secondly, is there space on the reg to clamp it to a dz2? I checked the Center Flag website, but they only had pics of the new 201. Thanks.
          Last edited by theraidenproject; 11-10-2002, 09:24 PM.
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          • Dawson
            Registered User
            • Nov 2002
            • 9

            #20
            Update

            Well, I have yet to really try and get an answer from carleton, things have been frantic,

            but to answer theraidenprojects questions,

            as for the on/off, I am gonna try an mount some sort of slide check or quick disconnect to the tank, really it is going to take some thinking, also when macdev made the max attack tank it had no on/off so they made something of the sort to compensate. Really though some tanks today dont have on/offs look at the WDP A.I.R. reg there is not one on that, so really I will just have to figure it out.


            As for mounting, I may use the AGD flatline mount.

            Since it is the same Diamater as the flatline tank it should work.

            Thats all for right now though, I tried to find the laws governing highpressure tanks on-line but ahve yet to have luck.

            Thanks for the support.
            I need a jig saw...

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            • Spyderd68
              Registered User
              • Mar 2003
              • 39

              #21
              I was thinking along the same lines here. But could I wanted to go the 3000psi route. What is to stop you from buying the Center Flag adjustable regulator and just mounting it on say a steel(or fiber if you wanna go one step futher) hpa tank? For 150-200 bucks your getting a top of the line adjustable regulated tank?

              I am still new to this, I have done CO2 valves before with no problem, so if something I say comes across noob like thats why.

              Dave
              Looking for a nasty Mag.....or maybe a cocker...??>>

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              • Gadget
                UK Redskins
                • Jun 2002
                • 472

                #22
                If you've not got an on/off, fit either a slide-check or proconnect on the output from your tank - that'll allow you to disconnect your Mag from the tank and prevent it from emptying.

                The documentation I've seen for fibre wrapped cylinders (Luxfer ones - and this is for UK HSE certification whcih is slightly more stringent than DOT) do not advise using loctite or any kind of thread locker on the valves, but mention the following torque that the valve should be installed using:

                Thread M18 x 1.5 or 0.750 x 16 UNF - Torque Range 60 - 75 ft. lbs
                Thread M25 x 2 or 0.875 x 14 UNF - Torque Range 90 - 105 ft. lbs

                In practice however (and I've got three SCI tanks purchased in 1994, all of which have passed hydro repeatedly, most recently about 6 months ago) I just make sure the threads on the valve are clean, the o-ring good and then use 'blue' - or 'removable' loctite on a few threads (closest to the o-ring) and tighten as hard as I can using a strap wrench.

                I would seriously question using the strong 'red' thread locker, as you're likely to damage your valve or bottle threads when disassembling in future (or be unable to release the reg/valve at all).
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                • Spyderd68
                  Registered User
                  • Mar 2003
                  • 39

                  #23
                  Any updates on your "making a tank" project. I think i am gonna go the same route?

                  Dave
                  Looking for a nasty Mag.....or maybe a cocker...??>>

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                  • CNC9D
                    Odie Wan
                    • Feb 2002
                    • 28

                    #24
                    Just for further info on Loctite.
                    242 is for use on fasteners between 1/4 and 3/4 of an inch in diameter.

                    243 is also recomended for fasteners between 1/4 and 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Can be used on oily surfaces.

                    271 is a high strength adhesive and is for fasteners up to 1 inch in diameter. Heating and hand tools are needed for removal.

                    290 is for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2 an inch. The book that I got this info from also mentions "heating and hand tools are needed for removal." Although I coud not find this on the Loctite web page.

                    My two bits: I would use a loctite compound on co2 tanks and High pressure tanks that need to be screwed into an adapter. For High pressure tanks such as the Aingel air or flatline, etc., I would use very little 242 compound or none at all.
                    Welcome to my mind. Be carefull were you step because the floor is kinda sllipery.

                    A.K.A Ducky DC (on other forums)
                    A.K.A Odie Wan (on other forums)

                    PTI Air Smith/Tech
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