AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Hey, i getting a new trigger frame, what would u guys sugest a hyperframe, booyah, or wait till the medusa comes out. What is better out of the 2 electrical frames, im kinda thinking the hyperfame... Thanks Guys
I think the general concensus was that the hyperframe is better than the booyah, but lots of people like the booyah. The thing is they both require some tinkering to get them going good.
Personally I'd get an I frame. Especially if your putting it on a micromag. Micromags need to be modified by Centerflag to accept the hyperframe. I think they do some milling to the body. The amount you spent on the electric frame isn't really cost effective. If you want an electro, just get an emag. imho.
I was unaware that the intelli was an electronic frame
It's not, but neither is the Medusa, which he also asked about. I don't know why people bother with electronic frames.. I can shoot my intelli+retro faster than my friends Hyperframe.
I have the HF and liked it. But when I upgraded to LX bolt, I had problems with the LX/HF combo. I did get it to work on a lower pressure ,<500 psi, but was getting drop off. Any higher, the frame had problems releasing the bolt. Maybe due to harder push on bolt since it is lighter. There were times when it was working fine, but had problems the next day. The frame was even set to the highest impact setting. Now i'm going to buy a Intelliframe.
pbz don't give up yet. the force on the lvl-10 bolt is less
but the force on the on/off is higher. are you using the
HF on/off pin. if so you might need to turn up the
force that the solenoid uses to hit the sear.(oops I
see you did that already)
as to why bother with electro frames it's because I wanted
one thats why!
Yea, well i dont want an i frame in the least bit, and if i were 2 get a lx and HF woulf i have to use centerflags on/off or keep the one i have? ill just buy the hyperframe and if i dont like it, then i guess im out alot of $$$... anybody wanna buy a bushy w/ complete freak kit, sonic LPR ANS Gen-X2 reg 12v revvy and a steel 68/3000 psi nitro PM me and make an offer
micro, using the HF on/off is more or less mandatory anyhow,with the standard or lvl-10 bolt.
some people have been able to use the standard on/off but I have not.
In case you don't know the HF on/off is a stepped pin similar to the RT pin. It cuts the force needed
to push the pin by about half.
I have yet to read or hear of anyone that could not make
lvl-10 and the HF work.
There are two variables added to tuning lvl-10 with a hyperframe. the first is increased on/off force caused
by lvl-10's higher operating pressure, the second is the
short HF sear unlatch time, compared to your finger or the
emag.
In the first case increasing the sear trip force of the
HF will correct the problem.
for the second, the lvl-10 bolt is more sluggish than the standard bolt and the sear can trip and relatch before the
bolt even moves!
the cure is mostly just turn up the velocity a bit.
my suggestion for lvl-10 and HF is first set up lvl-10 with the manual grip make it work, then install the HF
I did setup my LX with my stock grip and only needed to change to the next smaller carrier after developing a leak. The next day I replaced the grip with the HF with a sear trip force of 9, the highest setting. I still had firing problems so what I did was back out the velocity till it vented out the back. I then turned the velocity a 1/4 turn till it fired consistantly. The FPS is probably under 200 but not sure since I don't have a chrono.
I see the GalacticZ valve. that might be the problem
(not for the usual dogmatic anti aftermaket part reason)
I'd try the HF on/off assembly instead.
the hyperframe really does depend on their on/off to reduce
the pushing force and they use a very low friction teflon o-ring
as well.
If you compare the GZ and HF pins I "think" you will see
a larger stem on the GZ.
I was in the middle of replacing o-rings and found out that the small o-ring on the on/off bottom was soft from countless games, creating more friction. I shot off an email to galacticz and will also head off to a local store.
STAY AWAY FROM BOOYAH FRAMES!!!! I DECIDED TO TAKE A CHANCE ABOUT SIX MONTHS AGO WITH THE BOOYAH FRAME AND IT NEVER WORKED, THE COMPANY STILL HASNT FIXED IT AND THEY WONT GIVE ME MY MONEY BACK. STAY AWAY FROM BOOYAH AT ALL COSTS!!!!
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