Uh-Oh, Full-auto Emag in manual mode...

[cledford]

I just installed my new no-rise body and got my Emag back up and running after a long lay-off - since the IAO. (still level 7)

My battery pack is dead so I was running in manual mode. I gassed my gun up with 800psi input and the gun shot 3 shots semi, then went into full auto mode - very bouncy - for the rest of the time it was gassed. I de-gassed and then setup with a second air system. This is where it gets a little more interesting - I gassed up again and more full auto. I started turning down the input a hundred psi at a time (from 800) and I continued until 400psi, where I was still getting a run away. I've never heard of a RT valve bouncing below 900psi and I was getting a bounce Tippmann would be proud of at 400, can you say butterfingers would approve of my gun? That's how fast/much it was rattling off.

Not only was it very bouncy, occasionally it would start leaking down the barrel for a second. A second pull on the trigger would stop the leak and the gun would start shooting auto again.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-Calvin

[Thordic]

Check your sear and your bolt for wear, its possible that the sear isn't quite catching.

Otherwise the problem resides in your on/off. Too short a pin for the new body, perhaps?

[Tunaman]

the next tighter carrier will slow the bolt some...possibly reducing the bouncing. If not, check the sear real close

[cledford]

Originally posted by Thordic
Check your sear and your bolt for wear, its possible that the sear isn't quite catching.

Otherwise the problem resides in your on/off. Too short a pin for the new body, perhaps?

Good call, I bet there is some diffence in the thickness of the 2 bodys - I went from a black to a chrome, maybe the chrome is thicker. Then funny thing is that the on/off pin from my Retro is to long. I just popped it in and now the gun leaks down the barrel. I think someone at the tech class suggested Tom produce a kit with different length pins. He said they might at some point but were to backed up on other projects. Tuna, is this something you could put together as a product? I don't think Tom would mind.

BTW, sear is good.

Thanks guys!

-Calvin

[Havoc_online]

how old is the Emag? If it has the brass on/off the pin should be .712" if it's the aluminum one it should be .725"

pull out and check your trigger rod length, it should be 2.125"

if your getting a leak down the barrel goto a shorter spacer.

Hope this helps.:)

[Thordic]

Havoc, you should never base trigger rod length off a measurement alone, the measurement is only a guideline. Slight differences in the frame can require slightly different lengths. The only thing that matters on the trigger rod is making sure it is close to the trigger without touching it.

I've set trigger rods to the "exact" number suggested by AGD and had it too long/too short. A few AGD techs, including Hoover, have said on multiple occassions its more of a "measure by eye" thing, you just have to know what you are looking for.

[Havoc_online]

I know exactly what you mean, however most times you have to change the length to make the marker work right mean that whatever you installed changed the tolerance that AGD gave it.

I've fixed PLENTY of markers just by correcting simple things like these.

[BlackVCG]

First things first. Make sure you have the rail bushing in place and you're fully tightening the field strip screw. Also, make sure the on/off pin is .725" or .712". Check those things and we'll go from there.