Anodizing an Extreme or SFL????

[jeffremiller]

These a steel insert around the bolt.... how do you remove it.

Need to get it out before sending it off for Ano...

J_

[rikkter]

i remember reading a thread that contained the same question.. but not sure where, try searching the forums

or wait for someone nice enough to neglect the 'USE THE SEARCH BUTTON DAMNIT' and will help you. but i dont know how sorry

[Load SM5]

I know it's threaded. I had a bit of trouble with mine backing out during play before I used some medium strength locktite to get it to stay put. If you try boiling the mainbody a bit, the locktite (I assume that's what they used) might loosen up enough for you to unscrew it out. Mine moved easy by hand. Just be careful and use a thick rag if you try to use your fingers. That piece was sharp and sliced my fingers open a few times.

[jeffremiller]

Just be careful and use a thick rag if you try to use your fingers. That piece was sharp and sliced my fingers open a few times

Too late...

Ouch.

J_

[jeffremiller]

Tried boiling it... no luck... I let it boil for about 20-30 minutes a second time and still no luck.

I don't want to mangle this getting it out... ideas?

J_

[jeffremiller]

I called Airgun yesterday and explained the situation. They told me that the insert isn't supposed to ever come out.

I asked how you eanodize the bodies then, the answer was "You don't"...

I think that's a bit short sided... With the Extremes coming out close to extrusion, not the C&C but the regular ones, milling and reanno should be common place. I can attest that this part is a bugger to get out. Almost impossible without tearing up the surface.

I did just get it out. It involved a 6" 5/16" bolt and two nuts, a boiling pot of water and a vice.

It's not in good enough shape to reuse so I will have to get another from AGD... $10 by the way but I still don't have the part number.

J_

[kilaueakid]

wish I had seen this earlier, I could have gave you some advice. To get mine out, I used a torch from teh inside of the body and got her very hot. I could see the lock-tight was starting to boil and she was ready to turn out. Regardless of how you do it, 9 times out of 10 you will have to replace the washer. I notched a couple of slots on the ID of it so I could get a flathead screw driver in there to turn it. I have a replacement washer for this and do not plan on using the old one. A better way would be to heat in the same fasion and than get something with a snug ID fit to the washer and use that to unscrew it. If ever attempting this, be very careful, wear gloves, this thing was probably 700-1000 degrees F!!, and definately lock tite it back down when reassembling the marker to avoid any future problems.

Kila

[jeffremiller]

Thanks kilaueakid

Now I have that 5" bolt and two nuts. I bottom the first nut out on the end of the threads... about 2" up the bolt. Then I feed it into the body and put the other nut on the bolt right in the breech.

After I tighten it down, the two bolts grip the washer and with a bit of heat, it'll come out.

Too bad I notched it before I learned this but I really don't mind replacing it.

J_

[datapimp69]

why cant you ano it with the insert installed ?

am i missing some thing?

i was going to reano my xmag.

[Kevmaster]

you cant anno steel. itll screw things up(im not exactly sure what happens, so i wont even try to explain my limited knowledge) with the steel....

[milf350]

I was told that the process will actually melt the steel.