Hard Trigger Pull

[IcantBelieveit]

Hey guys, I got my Valve All reabuilt, All my Lines and leaks fixed. Any my trigger rod adjusted. It seems like it is a bit hard to pull the trigger. You know NOt really hard. Are all mags like this? Or is there something else that needs attention.
Let me know
Thanks
Kenny

[Xzion]

Well, for starters, you shouldn't be adjusting the trigger rod at all. the only real time you should be adjusting it is when its causing firing issues. Otherwise, AGD has it set at a certain spot for a certain reason. you should have about the width of a credit card between the end of the trigger rod and the back of the trigger for it to be set 'correctly.'

Mags are known for having a rather firm crisp pull, in comparison to other markers, but the short pull tends to make up for this. It's hard to say in your case, the pull is normal, as what you consider a 'bit hard' may differ from mine. But yes, 'mags tend to have a firm trigger pull, (firm is how I discribe it due to how it seems to me) you might want to perhaps try someone elses mag at a local field and compare the 'firmness' of the pull.

Perhaps you should see if they'll let you try their mag with your grip frame on it to compare and find what the weight of a 'normal' mag pull is as you seem a little new to mags? or so it would seem at any rate. I'f your lucky, maybe you'll find someone with a simular grip frame. The frame can vary the 'feel' of the trigger a bit, so keep this in mind.

Hope this helps a bit. :)

[IcantBelieveit]

yea i did adjust my trigger b/c of a firing issue, it would not release the bolt, that is the only time i adjusted it. And that is the word i was looking for, FIRM. Andn it is probably b/c i am used to shooting the spyder.
Thanks again

[WicKeD_WaYz]

If its a new mag shoot a couple thousand shots and the trigger will lighten up a bit.

[2fun]

So what else can be done to improve trigger pull (I'm a machinist).

What about buffing the edge of the bolt to smooth it out a little?
What about buffing the sear?
I know not to remove too much, or you will have a runnaway rapid firing gun, but couldn't one buff it to the point where it did lighten the trigger pull, but didn't compromise reliability?
Thanks!

[Xzion]

Originally posted by 2fun
So what else can be done to improve trigger pull (I'm a machinist).

What about buffing the edge of the bolt to smooth it out a little?
What about buffing the sear?
I know not to remove too much, or you will have a runnaway rapid firing gun, but couldn't one buff it to the point where it did lighten the trigger pull, but didn't compromise reliability?
Thanks!

AGD has designed the sear and bolt the way it is for a specific reason, and put a bit of effort putting the nice round edges on both of which. buffing and polishing only starts the wearing process and will cause problems in the long run. Ive seen first hand what 'modding' the bolt and sear can do, the result is usually buying a new bolt and/or sear. I personally, would just leave it as is, theres no real effective 'trigger mods' for 'mags. despite what you may read elsewhere on the web. To each their own.

[IcantBelieveit]

yea i just rebuilt the valve and put new sear in it. that is probablt the reason. Do i actually have to shoot paint to break it in. or can i just hook up air and jut shoot. And if i rebuilt the valve is there a break in period for that too?

[hitech]

These two things will lighten the trigger pull:

1. Install a level 10 "bolt". This will reduce the drag of the sear on the bolt.

2. Install either an RT on/off or a Centerflag on/off. Both of these use a "stepped" on/off pin that requires less effort to move.

[Xzion]

Originally posted by IcantBelieveit
yea i just rebuilt the valve and put new sear in it. that is probablt the reason. Do i actually have to shoot paint to break it in. or can i just hook up air and jut shoot. And if i rebuilt the valve is there a break in period for that too?

No, you don't actually have to run paint through it to break it in. Its the act of cycling that breaks it in.

If you refer to 'rebuilding' the valve by replacing all o-rings, perhaps a little time might be neded to get the new ones broken in, but not much, its mostly just letting the parts get worn in a bit (ie bolt, on/off sear etc.)