RT trigger rod length

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  • ~WarpedRT~

    #1

    RT trigger rod length

    Lately, I've been having trouble with my RT busting balls. It's a regular RT, and I am guessing that it may be the trigger rod. How long do i have to make it? Also, how do i measure this distance out? From what point to what point? I have seen some various numbers on here before, but i don't know what that means.
  • Tunaman
    Specialized AGD Tech

    • Dec 2000
    • 8643

    #2
    Trigger rod

    I bet you can pin it down to that "one hell of a trigger job". Try to get it back to stock specs and see if you troubles don't go away.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. [email protected]
    Tunamart

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    • ~WarpedRT~

      #3
      No, I can pin that on something else. I put one hell of a trigger job, because it is the fastest RT anyone has ever seen. From point to break, the actual pull can be smaller than an Angel's. I have had offeres for over a grand for just the gun. And the ease of going totally reactive is what most people like in my gun. Lowest offer was $800. I recently lent it to a friend of mine, who said he wanted to play with it. I let him borrow it, but I didn't think he could do something to it to screw up my gun entirely. Oh, and by the way, you didnt answer my question. Also, anyone looking to sell an E-Mag with a Warp Body?

      Thanks

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      • Tunaman
        Specialized AGD Tech

        • Dec 2000
        • 8643

        #4
        Chopping

        Well I thought I answered your question. I assumed you knew what the stock trigger rod spec was. Anyway, I believe if you set it at 1.985" from tip of rod to back of clevis, you will have a good start on fixing your gun. And the trigger rod should not have been adjusted in the first place, I am not assuming that YOU touched it either. Doing so will only mess up the timing, and result in a very expensive "trigger job" on the RT. The RT is already the fastest shooting marker on the planet, and I haven't seen a trigger job in the world that will make it go any faster. If the gun is as reactive as you say, and the pull length is as short as an electro, you can surely bet that 50 dollar sear and that 35 dollar bolt will be wearing at an astronomical pace. So once again, try to put the gun back to stock specs and see if it helps the chopping. 1.985" on the trigger rod, and check the ON/off pin for ..74-.75". Hope this helps
        Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. [email protected]
        Tunamart

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        • ChrisAGD
          Magger For Life
          • Oct 2001
          • 157

          #5
          same prob on rt pro

          i recently have been having same prob on my rt pro, i saw a reply that said 1.9" now would that be 1 and 3/4" or 1 and 7/8". also how high should the ball detent be?
          Paintball is the most addictive, expensive sport there is...besides smoking crack!

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          • BlackVCG
            Grubby Owner

            • Oct 2000
            • 4956

            #6
            Understand the Mechanics of the Gun.

            I could care less if you have an RT that has a trigger pull shorter than an Angel or if people have offered you up to $1K for it. If it has a pull shorter than the Angel, the gun is NOT working properly and problems will develop.

            People just don't understand the Mag trigger can't be shortened without changing something which will lead to problems. Unscrewing that trigger rod makes the pull shorter, but then it eats up your sear and bolt and causes shootdown in the gun because the sear can only latch on the bottom tip of the bolt and the on/off pin isn't allowed to open all the way. Trigger rod measurement is made from the back of the arm on the sear to the tip of the rod. It should be set so that there is a gap inbetween the back of the trigger and the trigger rod when gassed up.

            As for paint breaking, if it's breaking down the barrel and there is no paint near the bolt, it's a paint issue. If it's breaking and paint is all in the breech, you have a chop issue and that means your paint is either too small for the barrel, the nubbins aren't holding the paint far enough back, the revy can't keep up or you have the PF plug set wrong.
            My Feedback

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            • ~WarpedRT~

              #7
              Ok, let me tell you thst the sear and the bolt are perfectly fine, and UI have been watching them for alost three months now. Before I let someone borrow it, It worked fine. No problems at all. And it IS a chopping problem, because I have had someone watch while I was firing, and they saw it chop. You don't get paint in the powerfeed, and down the warp tube from a ball breaking down the BARREL. And I could care less if you care or not, that wasn't the point of the post. The point of the post was to get help. It seems Tunaman is the onlyone who can actually help without critisizing though. But this this is getting to me. I don't have any more patients with it. I may just buy my sister Cole cocker, or her husbands E-Mag.

              By the way, thanks Tunaman for the help, but it is still chopping. I'll keep trying though.

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