How is it when you chop with a warp. I mean to clean. Since the balls are forced in wont it be messy? Or can you turn the adapters plug then take out the one on the body, empty the balls, cleen breach?. Also should I go for a warp or a LX to solve my coping problems, And if I get both I assume my choppping will pretty much go away. thanks
Choping with warp and other questions
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It can get messy when you have a chop with a warp, but not always. The warp doesn't really affect chopping, it gets your hopper off the top of your gun. A lev 10 will eliminate chopping, for the the most part, so go with that to fix any chopping problems first. Warps are more of an ergonomic upgrade. -
not really.........the warps also speed up feeding alot........I could not get 15 BPS on my spyder without one.
but to answer your question, it is not a big deal. The best thing to do is put an on/off switch on the warp. if you chop(which wont be often) turn off the warp and clean the gun, then turn it back on. If you have it intelifed, then just dont pull the trigger while your are cleaning it and it will be fine.
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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In almost two years of play with a warp, I've yet to see a ball break in it.
If it happens, the best thing to do is to open the warp to clean the mess. In case of emergency you can remove most of the paint with a piece of paper between the disks, and making the warp turn.
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I never had a big mess. When I had chamber chops (before LX) it would have paint between where the powerfeed tube and the breach is, and a little paint down the powerfeed tube, only about a half an inch though. All I would do is take off the powerfeed plug tilt the gun dump some paint then put a rolled up paper towel through it and turn it so it takes in the paint, take the barrel off the gun and clean the breach also. If you want to do it the "right" way you would need to take apart your warp hose, and your valve and clean everything out. You basically have the idea though.How is it when you chop with a warp. I mean to clean. Since the balls are forced in wont it be messy? Or can you turn the adapters plug then take out the one on the body, empty the balls, cleen breach?.
LX = anti chopAlso should I go for a warp or a LX to solve my coping problems, And if I get both I assume my choppping will pretty much go away. thanks
Warp = Hopper off top of gun, doesn't help in reducing chops
Put a VL200 loader(non motorized loader) on your warp and see how many bps you get. You may have to constantly shake the gun to get it to feed the warp.not really.........the warps also speed up feeding alot........I could not get 15 BPS on my spyder without one.
Then use a motorized loader, there is a difference, but if you keep track of what you just did all you did was change loaders.
If you have a warp that isn't properly fed (due to no intelliframe or non motorized loader) you are probably at a disadvantage loading wise. You figure that the warp feed has the disc system and only loads the ball up to the other end of the warp. At that point the only thing force feeding the balls are OTHER balls. Hence if your loader is not up to par with your loading demands the time required for a ball to push the other ball up is going to be longer which means you are getting a reduction in bps.-Hikaru, Automag, Sheridan P68 & PGPComment
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ya, but for a 8 or so balls that are in the warp already, you do get an insane ROF. I have a 12V revy feeding it and have never had problems with chopping. chopping went away complettely once I installed it.
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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No, really it doesn't. A Warp feeds only as fast as the loader you put on it. A properly fed gun, eg. a linked revy or Halo, will feed just as fast as a properly set up warp. As I said, more than anything the warp is an ergonomic upgrade that gets the loader off the top of your gun. In some positions the warp will also be a more reliable feeding mechnasim, but not faster.not really.........the warps also speed up feeding alot........I could not get 15 BPS on my spyder without one.Comment
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you are absolutely 100% wrong. the warp has 8-10 balls in the warp ready for feeding. it will feed them at 20+ BPS (if your gun can fire that fast). granted, once you exceed those 8-10 balls, you are at the mercy of how fast your loader will reload the warp. but if you keep your bursts lower than 8-10 balls at a time (with very little time in between) it will out feed a revy all by itself.
the halo is a different story, as that will feed 20+ BPS all by itself
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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ok i said this, i may not have said 20+bps but I did mention that a fully loaded warp is ready to shoot whatever is in the warp tube. Ok for the sake of the argument lets just say it loads these 8 balls at 20+bps.the warp has 8-10 balls in the warp ready for feeding. it will feed them at 20+ BPS (if your gun can fire that fast).
this is something else I already mentioned, the key point being that the loader feeding the warp is what regulates the "true" bps per say.granted, once you exceed those 8-10 balls, you are at the mercy of how fast your loader will reload the warp.
ok this is a matter of perception, if you want to just see the bps for 8-10 balls, sure a warp does 20+bps as long as it is all primed and ready. but add an inferior loader to this equation then you still get the 20+bps for the first 8-10 shots then you take a nose dive as far as bps goes. If what your saying is that the warp can GET 20+bps when it is fully loaded, sure thats true, but a warp alone can't get 20+bps, the hopper on top is what feeds it after all, and the 20+bps is only off the first 8-10 shots in a fully loaded warp not for long durations. Also if you honestly want to benchmark a loading systems performance it is done in full auto continuous fire until there are no balls in the hopper and until there are not enough balls in the warp to push up the balls in the warp tube.but if you keep your bursts lower than 8-10 balls at a time (with very little time in between) it will out feed a revy all by itself.
Testing the warp using only 8-10 shot bursts and claiming "20+bps loading" isn't completely stating the truth, maybe "20+bps loading POTENTIAL."
Then again if a HALO can load 20+bps, adding a halo to a warp would make the warp reach its potential every time.-Hikaru, Automag, Sheridan P68 & PGPComment
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hmm thanks guys, Ima go LX first cuz I have choping issues( once I chop It takes like 1:30 minutes to "fix" on the field and then accuracy is shot) then Ill go warp cuz Im feeling my lil make with the 8.5 inch taso proseries, and offset DZ2 w/ a warp youl be a small *** gun.(by request, reset by Army)Comment
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the way i see it, the warp actually does increase your bps capability by a small margin (when using a motorized loader of some sort). this is because it can feed the ball you need now in about 15 ms. the rest of the time its spinning is used priming the warp. if its spinning constantly when your shooting fast (say, 12-13 bps), very little of its time is actually used feeding a ball. so you migh see a 1-2bps increase out of the warp/loader combo."The Fine Print: Discontinue use if your eyeballs suddenly get way smaller."Comment
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