ok,i just got my mag today from a trade, but it won't fire. Its supost to have a lvl 10, sub zero gas threw grip, p/f, freak. I pull the triger all the way back, and its gassed up (the knob it harder to turn in the back, and the trigger has pressure to push it back after you pull it). I dunno whats wrong w/ it though. (i don't have any spacers or anything like that) He said he used it a couple days b4 he sent it, and i believe him cause theres some paint on it in places. I havn't been able to contact him yet.
hhmm prob....
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LoL tried that too, but he said it was the fittings and macro line? So im gunna play w/ that now, see if it works. Hopefully that'll be the prob, but keep the suggestions coming.Comment
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ok, when i turn the knob on the end i can hear leaking, and for a little while im pretty sure it was leaking out of the barrel. I put new marco line in, switched the elbows, put new teflon tape on them, theres no leaking from them what so ever from the elbows. Any other hints? Also, the lvl 10 how can you tell if it is a lvl 10?Comment
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um....there are no insides to the bolt...just the bolt the main spring i guesse you would call it, and a blue spacer in between the bolt, and the hammer i guesse you can call it that.
WTF! Aren't there supost to be stuff inside of it??Comment
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ok, w/ the on/off, you pull the trigger, the back part of the sear comes up pushed the on/off on so the air goes threw it, and pushes the bolt forward, and the front part of the sear lowers so that the bolt can pass it. Right? I think ive narrowed it down to the back part doesnt come up all the way to turn it on, is there anything i can do to fix that? Should i make the clevis rod a little longer?Comment
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the rod should be 1/16th of a inch away from the trigger when it is resting.
what is the pressure in your tank? with lvl10 you gotta have like over 800 or something (well thats what 4 of my teammates are like)
without that much, it simply wont shoot.
what it just seems like is that the sear isn't releasing the bolt, OR, the spring is too long, trying going down a size spring, and check the sear for wearComment
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well first off the blue spacer is called a "bumper" just to be correct. and is the power tube tips slotted or is it hex headed?Comment
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one has a slot, in the end of it for like a screwdriver or coin to take it off, and the other one should not have a slot and look like you need a wrench to take it offComment
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It sounds like you have a level 10.
Remove the valve by doing this: 1. Degas the marker. 2. Pull the trigger to get the on/off pin fully into the on/off valve. 3. Remove the rear field strip screw, allow the valve to back out and press down on the air fitting. You should be able to remove the valve now. 4. Remove the bolt/spring from the valve.
If you have a level 10 bolt the power pistion will protrude from the back of the bolt. If it is a level 7 it will not protrude. The power tube tip (what the power pistion fits into) will have a hex head (like a bolt). If it's level 7 it will have a slot for a coin/screw driver.
If it's a level 10 put two drops of oil into the power tube tip and reassemble. Gas it up and see if it fires. If not, turn up the velocity until it does. CHRONO IT.
Let us know.
Here is a link to the level 10 information (complete with pictures
)

Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
The only Hitech LubricantComment
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Thanks for all the help, ive been taking it apart and putting it back together trying all sorts of things, but never got it working. The tub does protrube from the rest of it. But ill probably take it to the shop and see whats wrong w/ it. Keep up the help thoughComment
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Do you have all the parts that came with the level 10 kit? If you do, try a smaller spring (usually the middle/cut spring works). Also, turn up the velocity until it does fire. Keep going until it either fires or vents out the back. Let us know which happens first.
Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
The only Hitech LubricantComment

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