CO2 disconnect problem

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  • tacoshel
    Registered User
    • Jan 2003
    • 4

    #1

    CO2 disconnect problem

    I've been having this problem for some time now, but it wasn't until recently that I decided it might be very detrimental or potentially dangerous to continue playing with my gun in this.... state.

    I own a Classic AutoMag, with an expansion chamber, usually using a 12oz CO2 tank. The gun is at least four years old. I think it is level 7.

    My problem is with disconnecting the tank from the gun. I know that guns usually only require a few turns and maybe a couple pulls on the trigger to de-gas. My AutoMag, however, requires many turns. During this time the tank is stuck on rather tight, as gas spews out the adaptor (I lose LOTS of CO2 during disconnect). Upon my last turn, the gun sort of explodes off the tank (which I am usually holding very tightly).

    Allow me to define "explode." The gun gives off a very noticeably loud burst of gas upon disconnecting. It's louder than actually firing the gun. EVERYBODY turns their head when I de-gas this gun.

    Also, the last time I played, the gun, quite literally, jumped out of my hand at the disconnect. It flew off about a foot from me, and then slid on the ground for another half or so. That may not seem like much, but considering that the gun shouldn't be flying off for ANY DISTANCE, I am disturbed.

    The gun also breaks the tank O-ring when I de-gas; however, only after a full day of play. Disconnecting midday spares the O-ring temporarily, but at the end of the day I can always count on having to replace it. Whether this has to do with time or climate, I don't know. Still, regardless of when I take the tank off, it "explodes."

    Firing the gun while disconnecting is ineffective. I have tried using different tanks, all with the same consequence.

    Understand that this has not always been a problem. It gradually developed, and has since gotten worse and worse. What's wrong?

    Thank you.
  • warpfeedmod
    I came, I saw, I painted.
    • Jun 2001
    • 1265

    #2
    perhaps the bottom asa has been damaged or the threads are damaged? This would explain the problems with the tank being tight and not being able to unscrew it easily. I would check about replacing your asa or as well check the threads on the tank. since you said you've tried different tanks there is probably no issue there. My opinion? Check the ASA and possibly try a different one (froma friend, etc) and see if that works. THat'd be the cheapest route. If it's not the ASA then perhaps a screw-in compressed air/N2 tank? Usually hte preset screw-ins are relatively inexpensive, plus you'll get better consistency with it.

    Try that and let me know, I'll think of some other issues that could cause it

    Also if you need a new ASA I think I might have one laying around I can get ya.
    My Trader Feedback
    It was the only tournament I've been to where they have more cases of beer than paint. - gimp

    Comment

    • digitard
      DigiWang .. Special Ed
      • Nov 2002
      • 1678

      #3
      I'm guessing the threads on either the tank or the ASA are warped or damaged somewhere.

      Cause regardless of valve operation, that wont change how many physical turns it takes cause the threads on the valve/asa determine that.

      I would look into testing a 2nd tank to verify if its the tank or the ASA threads, but one is most likely damaged.

      Sincerely,
      Dave K
      Its a wakeup call for the Nintendo generation
      GregHastingsPaintball 3 is coming

      Comment

      • Trigger_Happy
        Magic Elf #02485
        • Apr 2002
        • 807

        #4
        This problem is most definately due to your ASA, not your tank, gun, etc. Simply replace your ASA, and your problem is solved. What you are describing has to poteial to turn your tank into a projectile, so please act right now!
        -For to me, to live is Christ, and to die is gain. Philipians 1:21

        -Don't try to use your fancy smancy "logic" on me! It won't work!

        -It is better to stay silent, and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.

        Comment

        • xen_100
          super-uber spyder tech
          • Oct 2002
          • 1203

          #5
          I am guessing that you are unscrewing the tank the whole time it is venting gas right? that is why it pops the tank of the back. there is still pressure behind it. Once the tank clears the threads it is going to blow itself off. having and x-chamber makes it hold more air in the gun, so it is going to vent longer than other peoples guns. what you need to do is just unscrew the tank like 1/2 to 1 turn, then fire the gun until all the co2 in the gun is gone. then unscrew the tank.

          you should look at the threads on the tank and ASA, but I bet there is nothing wrong with them. no need to replace anything, just unscrew it correctly.

          "super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
          Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
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          Comment

          • tacoshel
            Registered User
            • Jan 2003
            • 4

            #6
            I would like to believe that xen_100 is right, but I've tried that before, to no avail. Maybe I did not fire enough.

            Still, this does not explain why the problem has gotten worse and worse as time has passed. Did I just forget how to remove a tank (gradually!)?

            By the way, thanks a lot for the responses.

            Comment

            • jonnie60
              Registered User
              • Jan 2003
              • 246

              #7
              Mags dont usually allow u to degas the gun by firing the rest of the co2. Usually you must just unscrew as fast as you can. O it is definately the asa. Maybe the threads are damaged but it sounds as if the pin in the asa is a bit to long to begin with and continues apply pressure on the pin valve causing the gun to jump.
              President of The Paintball Club of Virginia Tech
              Go HOKIES!
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              Comment

              • tacoshel
                Registered User
                • Jan 2003
                • 4

                #8
                THat's what I thought, but I can't imagine the pin actually BECOMING too long. Too short yes; too long, no. Remember, it didn't start this way.

                Comment

                • Jonesie
                  All Around Good Guy
                  • Oct 2002
                  • 1123

                  #9
                  Allow me to suggest an On/Off ASA. That will allow you to save CO2 by shutting the bottle valve before unscrewing. This will most likely requie a Drop Forward, as I can't fond any On/Off Bottom line adapters...


                  Jonesie
                  David M. Jones
                  AO Member #1111 - Formerly davej946
                  Member of Team AO, MGO 2003

                  Wildfire :: Division III X-Ball
                  www.wildfirepaintball.com

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                  Comment

                  • digitard
                    DigiWang .. Special Ed
                    • Nov 2002
                    • 1678

                    #10
                    Yeah,
                    Look (in my opinion) into a Drop Forward with an ON/OFF on it ... I know SYSTEM X makes a good one.

                    Sincerely,
                    Dave K
                    Its a wakeup call for the Nintendo generation
                    GregHastingsPaintball 3 is coming

                    Comment

                    • bjjb99
                      Registered User
                      • Dec 2001
                      • 318

                      #11
                      You might want to put a little plain white lithium grease on your tank's threads and o-ring. Do this while your tank is empty and repeatedly attach and remove it from the ASA. This should help your thread binding problem.

                      Jonesie's and digitard's recommendation to get an on/off ASA is a very good one. I had o-ring chopping problems when I used a back-bottle ASA on my Mag. I would have to replace the bottle o-ring three out of every four times I removed the bottle from my Mag. Since I started using an on/off ASA, I've not had to replace a single bottle o-ring. I just turn the on/off "off" and fire my Mag several times to vent residual pressure in the lines. When the marker no longer makes "pfft pfft pfft" noises, I unscrew the tank.

                      Note that this procedure needs some modification if you've got a level 10 bolt installed, as the residual pressure that is still reatined after the marker no longer fires is greater. If you have a level 10 bolt, it is recommended that you put some sort of bleed valve in your air path to allow complete depressurization of the marker.

                      BJJB

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