Automag Newbie problems

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  • Miltonyz
    Registered User
    • Nov 2002
    • 224

    #1

    Automag Newbie problems

    I got an automag 68 classic around two weeks ago. I bought the gun used off of ebay. I did not have a CO2 tank at the time. But being curious I wanted to see more of the gun. I took off the pwer tube tip and saw what was in there. I took apart the on-off and examined the pieces. I also split apart the valve halves and saw what was inside them. I eventually borrowed a CO2 tank from a friend and screwed it on. MASSIVE leak down the barrel. That's okay I have been looking at automags for a while and after eyeing the power tube to make sure it has no crack surmise that it is the power-tube tip o-ring. Fast foward about a week later. The 32 Degrees parts kit that I ordered comes in. I immediatly replace the powertube oring, the reg seat,the bolt spring, and the oring where the valve screws together. I do not have specific paint-gun oil. Instead I use a regular gun oil. I lubricated the power-tube oring before installation. When everything is back together I drop a few drops of oil into the holes on the valve. I screw in the CO2 and no leaks! So I step out the back door with around two hundred paintballs and shoot them. I am 100% percent sure that I at no point froze the valve. I shot slow and never had snow come out of my barrel. After about 180 shots I start to notice that my only the first ball in a string goes where intended the rest fall short. I take the gun back inside and find that the new 32 Degrees spring was already shorter then the bolt. I replace the 32 degrees spring with the one that was in the gun to begin with. Also the powertube tip had loosened a little. I dry-fire the gun later with no discernable leaks. Two days later when I gass up the gun again it has a small leak. I again tear it apart and try replacing the power-tube tip. This time I used no oil and the leak has not gone away.
    My thoughts are.

    1. The 32 degrees orings are somehow bad. I think of this because of how quickly the spring sacked out.
    2. The oil I used is degrading the orings. This is on of my key suspicions as I am sure it is not oring friendly. But even if it is not shouldn't I see longer oring life?
    3. A power-tube crack. I doubt this one as there was no leak the first time the oring was replaced.
    4. I thought at some point maybe the bolt was sticking? I oiled both the bolt and spring just to be sure.
    5. I am somehow damaging the oring on installation. To get it on I hold one side were it should be and stretch the other over the tip.

    Any ideas would be appreciated. I am hesitant to try the power tube oring again if that may not be the problem.
  • Miltonyz
    Registered User
    • Nov 2002
    • 224

    #2
    I just dropped a couple more drops into the oil holes. After about three shots the hissing went away.
    1. Am I masking a problem by overoiling?
    2. I dry-fired a lot before does this lead to orings drying out quicker?

    I will write again is everything works out. I'm off to the store to buy more paintballs.

    Comment

    • Bulldog
      Registered User
      • Jun 2001
      • 1374

      #3
      I would use a paintgun oil and not a "real gun" oil. I don't know if it actually matters or not, but real gun oil seems like it may be to harsh. Maybe someone else can shed some light on that.

      The other thing I would suggest is buying an actual automag parts kit, made by AGD. I didn't know 32 deg made them, but I'm willing to bet the AGD kits are supierior in every way.

      I would try those two things out and see where I was at. If it still leaks, I'd call up an AGD tech, and maybe send it in. You can spend weeks of frustration and lots of cash on one simple little thing. Hope it works for you.

      Comment

      • toymyster
        Team OSIRIS
        • Dec 2000
        • 1277

        #4
        The reason for the oil is that in a paintball gun, you have to use a synthetic type oil, which is safe for o-rings!! Oil based oils tend to soften ans swell the o-ring used in the paintball guns and destroy them in quick order!! As for the parts kits, all o-rings are made to the same specs, and they are still very inconsistent!! AGD does not make their own o-rings, neither does 32*, what does happen however, sometimes you get an o-ring that is too soft, an that will cause you problems!! Also, invest in a compressed air tank, you'll be a lot happier with the performance of your 'mag!!!
        E-Mag's on a diet
        Stay tuned for Pics!!!
        Centerflag 201 series 68/45

        Comment

        • Miltonyz
          Registered User
          • Nov 2002
          • 224

          #5
          I am at this point still having problems. I bought an Automag brand parts kit for it hoping that maybe it was the 32* kits fault. I changed out the power tube oring, and the one on the power tube tip. Also replaced the bolt spring. I used oil on the orings upon reassembly and made sure that the power tube oring was seated properly. I am now using an oil specifically designed for paintball guns. I borrowed a friends Co2 tank on Thursday and put about twenty rounds through it just to confirm that there was no leak. I figured every thing was alright. I took the gun to a field on Sunday. After about three games there was a barely noticble seep down the barrel. I took the valve off the gun and re-oiled it. I then checked the power tube tip for tightness and it was fine. So I went ahead and put the gun back together. Gassed it up and the leak had disappeared. I played a couple of more games and it started seeping again. Every time it started leaking it was a a small leak, never a big blast of air, and it went away after after I stripped the gun. After I got home that day I was fiddling with the gun trying to figure out the problem. I was dry firing and noticed that the reason I was hearing a seep was that the bolt was not going far enough back after shooting. I would fire a shot and tt would hiss so I would stick my finger in the feed tube and push the bolt back just the tiniest bit more and the leak would go away. I am not real sure of the problem. I have three basic ideas.
          1. The sear is worn and won't hold the bolt back far enough on it's own.
          2. The power tube spacer is not the right size. It came with a 220 in it.
          3. The person I bought it from tinkered with the trigger and now the sear is not catching quite right.

          btw at the field I was using compressed air.

          Thank you for any help

          Comment

          • Miltonyz
            Registered User
            • Nov 2002
            • 224

            #6
            Just bumping it for the night.

            Comment

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