X-Valve/ LX

[la690]

I recieved my x-valve a few days ago. i was expecting more reactivness. my output on my ND minireg was 800psi and the trigger was reacting but not as much as i thought it would. my friend who owned an RT said something about it too so im not sure what i can do about it. He said his reasponded alot more. On the instructions it said output should be from 700 to 800. every once in a while the valve hisses(w/o paint) like its being short stroked but i know that im not short stroking it. sometimes it wont shoot at all but it will still be gassed up and the rod is being pushed but nothing happens. when i turn up the velocity to fix this problem it will sometimes not do anything, sometimes make the gun leak when the trigger is pulled and someimes it works.

The LX in the valve is acting a little weird too. when i am shooting paint and the valve skips a shot and just makes the hiss noise, the next shot is always a chop. the hiss isnt a pinched ball either because i was shooting slowly and as i said it does it w/o paint.

i am going to mess with it with L7 bolt setup instead of LX to see what happens then. sorry about the length and i know i sound like a total newb but im new to retro and im at odds end.

[athomas]

Do you have a fixed output tank running to a regulator and then into the X-valve?

If so, then you are crippling your system. You should be running directly from your bottle to the regulator on the x-valve. If you insist on putting an additional regulator inthe system make sure there is at least 200psi difference between regs. That would mean you would need your middle reg set to around 650psi, but you wouldn't get much reactivity.

Your valve firing problems sound much like the level 10 just needs to be tuned. The carrier in use should allow the bolt to slide onto the valve with gentle force and allow the bolt to move back and forth smoothly. Too loose and the gun will leak. Too tight and the gun will misfire. Do this with no shims installed and the shortest spring. That way you will know if the leak is caused by the carrier or the shims. Use plenty of oil when insatlling and breaking in this bolt. Once it is set up install the shims so that the valve doen't leak while it is sitting idle but as soon as the bolt moves forward from its held position behind the sear, it will vent if it becomes stopped.

Once the gun is firing properly, change to a longer spring and set the velocity. You should be able to fine tune this system to be very gentle on any paint.

[la690]

i am not running an additional reg. thanks for the info. anybody know about the X-valve thing though?

[Dayspring]

Well, you need to answer some of our questions before we can help you.

Are you running a preset tank? (Meaning screw in and go) or an adjustable tank?

What is your level 10 setting? How many shims/what carrier/what spring?

Have you run oil through it?

Get back to us, and we'll work from there.

[la690]

nitro duck minireg. adjustable output.
1.5 carrier, 1 shim, long spring. oiled every o-ring.

[athomas]

What is your velocity set at? What type of gun is the X-valve in (ie; stainless body, micro body, extreme body)?

I would try the middle spring until the power tube o-ring is fully broken in. You will probably get more consistent operation, especially if you are experiencing firing issues now.

The amount of reactiveness you experience is somewhat a result of the pressure differential between the valve input pressure and the valve chamber pressure. The chamber pressure has an affect on the trigger force via sear and on/off pin. The input pressure has an affect on the larger portion of the on/off pin. Your input pressure is about 800psi and the level 10 chamber pressure is above 400psi. Many people using retro valves use higher input valves to increase the pressure differential. Another way is to get a slighlty shorter on/off pin. This will also increase your reactivity.

[la690]

i will switch to the medium spring and turn the input pressure up. i am kinda under the impression that shortening the pin is kind of frowned upon, any input on that? how much would it be shortened?

[la690]

ps. black HL minimag, nickel intelliframe

[la690]

oh yeah. velocity is high enough for it to shoot with large spring. i didnt chrono it. any more info guys?

[puckmaster]

Try turning your reg(Velocity)up.

[la690]

done.... any body else? you in the back?

[athomas]

Shortening the on/off pin is frowned upon. Buying one that is shorter is a better bet. If you are really careful, you can do it yourself. You are probably better off buying it though.

If the gun is shooting when using the longest spring then you are good to go. How hard is the bolt hitting when you put something up against it, like a squeegie? If it is just inconsistently not firing then maybe you need to use a smaller o-ring carrier.

[Peach]

Shaving down your on/off pin is difficult without the right tools... I ended up with one shoter then the emag pin in a matter of secconds... Then I sent my gun into AGD and they installed a .740 pin... A while later I had my gun stripped down when installing the lvl-x... I had a longer pin in at the time and the .740 was on my deskin plastic baggie and my mom threw it away!!!! ARGGGG!!!! Anyways... Then I ordered a .740 pin but it said .745 on the bag it came in... But I have no clue because i have no means of measuring it.

You will likely need to call tech-support to order a pre-sized pin.(I did atleast) Then they transphered me to a sales rep who got my info and sent it out...

You dont want to get it to short... But it seems like the .750 is to long for your liking. Go with a .745.

But before you buy the pin, Try adjusting your lvl-x and putting in the shortest spring. Put in the right shims and spacer... etc... Chrono it... Then test the lvl x with a pen or something... It may seem like its hitting hard, but put some paint in the breach, stuck to a peice of tape. If it pops... Im sorry I told you to do that but then I guess you will have to use the medium spring. If it works nice with the short spring... Keep it in there and then try the reactiveness, you may likely not need a new pin witht eh smaller spring.

[Smoken]

I could of sworn I posted in as thread exactly like this one the other day. Hmm? Oh well. Anyway, if you switch from the long spring to the middle spring, you can turn your velocity down making your gun more efficient and more reactive feeling (trigger doesn't kick back any harder, but pull is lighter). Even with the middle spring your gun shouldn't even think about chopping.

[la690]

thanks a lot guys. one more Q. how do i know the size pin i have right now and how much do they cost? cant be more than $1 or $2. jw. thanks again guys.