Machining Fun.

[theraidenproject]

I want the whole rail to be flush with the front (narrowest) part.
Also, Would you go all the way through the body, like the ULEs? Or would you just go most of the way, like the rail that started this whole thread.
You're right about the front angle being a little extreme. I would like the front angle to match the angle of the emag body, and start with the bottom left (same perspective as pic below). Attached is an (admittedly crude, but it only took about a minute) example of what I want. Can you also take the hump off of the grip frame? I like one-stop shopping.

[BlackVCG]

The hump on the grip frame just isn't possible with what I have. I don't have a way clamp it and get the right angle.

With the rail, taking off all of the back section so it'd be flush with the front section is pushing it. That's getting down to where my bit would be hitting the clamping jaws when it's cutting the top and bottom of the sides. I can take off the back wings no problem. Taking off those would look pretty good and you wouldn't have a square block sticking out the side for the sear axle pin as if you were to taking down the sides so they're flush with the front portion. I'm pretty limited in what I can do.

I can go all the way through the rail like the ULE rail, no problem. I just didn't do it on that rail since it's for an RTP and it made things go quicker.

[johnny dee]

OMG!!! how much would it cost to have what u did to the body rail done on my mag..

[BlackVCG]

What kind of rail? If it's an E-Mag/RT-Pro rail, to do what I did in that picture I'm charging $30. I can go all the way through on it and take out the area for the front grip screw if need be, but that one I did like that because it's for an RT-Pro and it needs the front grip hole. Also, I didn't mill all the way through because that made it easier to do and we weren't too picky about how light it was. Let me know what you need done and we'll figure something out.

[Twinky4907]

what is the perpuse of the screws in teh side of the rail and how would you put the wings on it but i would still need the front screw place in the front

[BlackVCG]

There's no purpose to have those screws in the front. It's just for looks and to plug the holes. Set screws would be better looking, but I didn't have any on hand so the stock screws were used.

I can't do the little groove wings in the rail like on the ULE rail.

I can take out/leave whatever you want inside the rail. If someone doesn't want the front grip screw hole or the twist lock hole since they're using a slug body, I can take out all of that material. I'll do it however you want it.

[Cristobal]

Looks good!

Also, though I'm no expert machinist, I think that your bridgeport may be capable of more than you are giving it credit for. I would guess that by using some size-blocks, guide-plates and clamps, and maybe even tilting the whole head of the machine you could make every one of the cuts people have requested of you.

[BlackVCG]

I'll bet your right. I know I can do a whole lot more than I think, but I'm not going to learn how to do this stuff on other people's equipment. I haven't done cut the hump of a gripframe or completely machined down the sides, so I'd have to probably build custom fixtures, do some experimentation, etc. I'm not going to do that on other people's equipment.

[johnny dee]

you have pm

[Cristobal]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
do some experimentation, etc. I'm not going to do that on other people's equipment.

I can't say I'd disagree with you about experimenting with other people's equipment... its easy to experiment when its your own equipment and it doesn't matter (as much) if you screw up

[maglover52]

that looks nice. nice work!

[AlabamaMan]

i can't wait to get my e-mag, more aluminum to mill

[masterblaster]

looks good!
I will be looking you up when I get my slug!!