What can I do to cause "bolt stick"? Yes-I want to do this

[killerbombo]

I'm working on a stock class Mag conversion and don't have access to a manual to check the trouble shooting section.
I picked up a incomplete pump kit from Toms Attic, it doesn't have the black bumper or power tube spacer. I did a cut down on a blue bumper and it works, but it makes for a really stupid trigger pull (more than usual resistance the first 2/3rds of the pull,hits a kind of stop point,and then releases with a snap as you continue to pull) Almost like a slack, or set trigger operation. I took out the pump kit wave spring and reinstalled a normal blue bumper, then installed a .215 power tube spacer to create the bolt stick needed for pump operation and it worked great at first. Trigger felt smooth and easy,good release, and very light pump action required to set the bolt. The problem is that after shooting it 50 or so shots,it returned to semi auto operation (no more bolt stick-maybe 5/26 shots) Any ideas on increasing the ability to produce the bolt stick required without using the wave spring. I thought about cutting down the .215 power tube spacer,but how short can you go? Also thought about heating the bolt return spring with a torch to take some tension out of it and reducing its ability to recock the bolt? What is the actual difference between the blue and the black bolt bumper (thickness/diameter/both)? How long is the power tube spacer that used to come with the pump kit?
Any Ideas, Mark

[kenny45749]

Well you may already know this, but the smaller the spacer you have the more likely the bolt will stick. As for the dimensions of the different bumpers I am unsure. I am also unfamiliar with the pump kit so I dont know the spacer that it calls for. But from semi auto experience, I would say a shorter spacer will stick. Good luck, hope you get it working.

[killerbombo]

Spring results

FYI- Took a torch w/ some MAP gas to the bolt spring. May have over did it. In otherwise standard configuration w/.215 spacer I get the desired bolt stick every time. Pump action and trigger feel great. Only down side is that I occasionally had a condition where the bolt did not return far enough for the pump rod to catch it and push it back,got it too hot or warped it? Also (this was a throw together gun from discardrd parts,AGD,Ebay, and who knows where) I found that the 2 bolt springs that I have differ in lenght by about 3/4". Anyone have a clue as to the different lenghts?
I heated the shorter of the 2 in the trial. Before I heated it,it was already shorter than the bolt.

[Strider]

Could we get some closeups and details for that mag? Looks cool...

[AdrenalineMag]

am i insane or is that a wgp hinge frame... i guess i dont get it, maybe somebody could explain to me how that works... wait, i already am insane, but could u still explain the frame,


THANK YOU OH CHEERFUL AND EXUBERANT GREAT WIZARD OF FROOT LOOPS (this would be the part where, you know, *whispering* im insane, hehehehehehehehehehehehehehe)

[killerbombo]

Yes, it's a WGP hinge frame

As I stated,it was a throw together project. I owned a Mag for quite a few years,and when I found AGD was releasing the pump kits again I picked one up with a pump style rail.
Since I have a Angel and a Sterling I wanted it to be a Stock class gun. Picked up a feed tube asm,stock,and 12 gram changer from Mike at CCI (Phantom parts). Got the 15 degree ASA from Doc to make it easier to get at the changer.Hunted down a standard Classic Mag body and valve asm on Ebay where I found the WGP hinge frame for $40.
I picked up the frame because it was cheap, I like the way it looked, and I remembered from my old mag days that the hole spacing in the grip frame was the same. Here's where it gets sick. The hinge frame is deeper. Had to open up the area where the beaver tail usually goes so the thumb screw would work. gutted the trigger asm and cut off the back of the hinge trigger so it resembled a Mag trigger and wouldn't interfer with the sear rod. Then I milled down the inside of the frame to the depth of the hole behind the trigger (needed to make room for the sear to swing). Made a new,slightly longer sear rod from a peice of 1/8" steel rod. And last, installed a brass "U" channel in the frame just behind the trigger to keep the sear rod centered. Picked up a J&J center feed barrel. After I removed the feed tube from the body, I used the feed hole in the barrel as a refference for the center feed hole I had to enlarge in the body. Drilled and tapped the mounting bolt hole for the stock feed. Since I didn't have enough sense to make sure the body was the proper year for the pump kit, I put a little paint on the rail and pressed it against the body to locate the slot I needed to cut in the bottom of the body for the pump rod to work. Picked up a pump rod from a "silverfox". Used micro line to keep the volume low for 12 gram use. A little tweakin and adjusting on the sear rod and trigger stops I installed and done....
Very smooth pump,very short and snappy trigger, and gets around 26 shots per 12 gram. No Auto trigger. Around $380 total invested and a fair amount of time, but Unique....

[Strider]

Wow! Very impressive, nice work!

[hitech]

Couldn't you just leave out the power tube spacer to always have bolt stick?

[azzkikr]

hey dude would you mind posting you configuration, I'm trying to do almost the exact same thing and was wondering what worked for you. thanks AZZKIKR