Blown PT Oring

[Mav D MagMan]

I was emailed this however I don't know the answer, any thoughts guys?

"My automag allways blows its oring, the one inside the valve, held in
by the spring... I have replaced both the spring and oring many times
and am getting sick of it. of course it allways waits until I want to
play. I dont have much money to spend on it, only have co2 available
where i live, can anyone tell me the fix for this? I also have an
anti siphon tank and an expansion chamber(I think,... it might just
be an air through grip but its pretty big for that) I know this is a
common problem with these guns but i cant find info anywhere. Help?"

Thanks for your help!
Mav

[athomas]

I'd find out if he is using an aftermarket bolt that may be causing problems.

[sneakyhacker420]

what bolt are you using?

is the anti-siphon installed correctly so it doesn't suck the co2 in?

are you using the AGD automags parts kit?

are they buna-nitra or urethane o-rings?

is it the correct size o-ring?

do you oil the o-ring(s) before and after playing?

[Mav D MagMan]

Answer to questions: I am not using an aftermarket bolt,the antisiphon is
installed corectly,everything is stock agd,I just went from the black oring
to the urithane I think( its clear/white)but have not had a chance to test
it, it is the corect size oring, I have never oiled anything besides the two
oil holes on the back...I dont have a manual or anything to know the oiling
procedure., mabey that is why this is happening. I also called agd today,
and they are sending me a spacer to replace the springs I have been using to
ceet the oring with. he also suggested a level ten upgrade, I assume its
another bolt? I am planning on getting a remote setup with a non siphon
tank, but the ony cheap remote is the cmi micro, and it looks very fragile,
I dont have alot of money to be spending on upgrades so i am seeking the
best value. does anyone know of anywhere else that has cheap remotes(around
20 shipped) or should I just keep watching ebay? thanks
for all the help, I still need a little more.

[athomas]

The oil holes do nothing. Put oil in the nearest available air intake line going into the valve.

[sneakyhacker420]

if you put oil in the "oil holes" you just made another problem, you put oil into the spring pack, where there is grease, and grease + oil = sticky mess, so you're gonna have to clean that out and get some white lithium grease from the hardware store and re-coat the spring pack with them... and never put oil in the 2 holes again, only into the powertube and air intake on the side of the valve


put oil in the powertube and the air intake closest to the valve... about 4-6 drops in each


it was probably tearing the o-ring because the PT o-ring was never oiled and there was too much friction between the o-ring and the bolt stem, and the o-ring gave way... and the urethane o-rings are more durable, now GO OIL THAT SUCKER (6 drops into the top of the powertube)


remotes get in your way alot, and dont get a CMI one, the micro line is a bunch of crap that restricts flow and can easily rupture, i suggest to just get a regular non-anti-siphon tank and get a good expansion chamber for the vert ASA


btw, the level 10 is a new bolt that when setup correctly, stops on half-loaded balls and then recocks instead of chopping through them as with the stock bolt

[sneakyhacker420]

i threw this together for you in MS paint

hope it helps



-sneaky

[Demobilized]

I would not unscrew the back half after every day of play becuase the breaks the seal between the reg seat and will give you poor velocity the next time you gas up. There is a thread on here some where that TK drew some diagrams on about the subject.

[athomas]

I wouldn't take the valve apart after each day of play either. Once it is working, leave it. A little oil in the air intake or ASA each day before play will be all that is needed to keep your mag in tip-top condition.