Hyperframe FAQ

[Sk8ermog]

Yeah you have too many shims in the ULT. Also make sure your pressure is high enough to shoot paint at a normal speed like 280fps. It's not your LvL10 though. It's going to be your ULT or the sear.

[nevtangle]

Yeah you have too many shims in the ULT. Also make sure your pressure is high enough to shoot paint at a normal speed like 280fps. It's not your LvL10 though. It's going to be your ULT or the sear.

Need to stop by the shop to get some more air and I'll start taking shims out of the ULT and see if that takes care of the problem. As far as the sear goes its in very good shape. The pressure should be right around 280 from the last time I played, but I'll double check that also.

Thanks for the help...

[nevtangle]

Yeah you have too many shims in the ULT. Also make sure your pressure is high enough to shoot paint at a normal speed like 280fps. It's not your LvL10 though. It's going to be your ULT or the sear.

Ok, I removed 5 of the 7 shims 2 at a time and then the last one. No real difference. Still hiccups when I start walking the trigger. I oiled the ULT. Turned up the velocity (not sure what it's shooting at but I'm sure its around 300 fps if not over) The sear looks ok. What else could be causing this? Low battery maybe? I'll try a new battery but not sure what else would cause this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks...

[hitech]

Make sure you are using high quality batteries (NO raovac). Better yet, one of the 9.6 volt nimh (such as plainview) with a min 170mah rating.

[nevtangle]

Make sure you are using high quality batteries (NO raovac). Better yet, one of the 9.6 volt nimh (such as plainview) with a min 170mah rating.

Thanks for the info hitech, I'm using Duracell. That should be good enough. Right? Maybe I need to purcase something better. What about the Java 9.6V rechargeables?

[nevtangle]

NEw battery and not any better... I'm wondering if the battery connection on the board might be wrong. When I got this frame it came w/ out the plug on the board and wires for the battery. I went to Radio Shack and got the battery connector and a cordless phone battery that had the same plug for the board and soldered the 2 together. I didn't have a good pic to look at to see which sides the red and black wires went. I found one on warpigs article. The best I could tell is that the black wire goes in the plug toward the trigger and the red goes toward the rear. Could this be my problem? Would the board even turn on if the wires were switched? Do you have a good pic for me to look at? The one in ths thread is really hard to make out.

EDIT: Here's the pic I referenced for the battery wiring.

[hitech]

Thanks for the info hitech, I'm using Duracell. That should be good enough. Right? Maybe I need to purcase something better. What about the Java 9.6V rechargeables?

If you have the battery wired backwards you would likely have fried the board by now...

Duracells are fine. The java 9.6 is a goog choice, but probably wan't solve your problem. I have no experience with ULTs, but your problem sounds like too long of an on/off pin. At higher rates of fire the on/off doesn't open enough to fully recharge the dump chamber. As the ROF increases the pressure in the dump chamber drops to the point where there is not enough pressure to force the bolt all the way out.

[nevtangle]

If you have the battery wired backwards you would likely have fried the board by now...

Thats what I was thinking. So it seems to be wired correctly.

Duracells are fine. The java 9.6 is a goog choice, but probably wan't solve your problem. I have no experience with ULTs, but your problem sounds like too long of an on/off pin. At higher rates of fire the on/off doesn't open enough to fully recharge the dump chamber. As the ROF increases the pressure in the dump chamber drops to the point where there is not enough pressure to force the bolt all the way out.

Should I give the Centerflag on/off a try? I know its not as good as the ult, but migt be worth a try.
If my pin is too long won't adding shims to the ult fix this? Adding shims basically shortens the pin length of the ult. Have you used the CF on/off in an Xvalve?
So what you said about the pin being too long makes a lot of sense. I'll try cramming more shims back into the ult. Since adding shims shortens the pin hopefully I can fit enough in there to fix the problem.
Thanks...

Also do you think increasing the power to the solenoid would do anything? Inceasing the # in the factory setup? Not sure what its called but access it by holding down both buttons for 3 sec when it turns on.

[hitech]

Have you used the CF on/off in an Xvalve?

Also do you think increasing the power to the solenoid would do anything? Inceasing the # in the factory setup? Not sure what its called but access it by holding down both buttons for 3 sec when it turns on.

I've never used an XValve. I've never tried a CF on/off in anything but a classic valve. But you should be able to try the CF on/off in the XValve. Follow the instructions for using the CF in an ReTro valve.

I would suggest using my recommened settings from the FAQ above. I know they worked with the CF on/off in a classic valve at 20bps fullauto. You're not likely walking the trigger faster than than.

[nevtangle]

I've never used an XValve. I've never tried a CF on/off in anything but a classic valve. But you should be able to try the CF on/off in the XValve. Follow the instructions for using the CF in an ReTro valve.

I would suggest using my recommened settings from the FAQ above. I know they worked with the CF on/off in a classic valve at 20bps fullauto. You're not likely walking the trigger faster than than.

I'll give the CF on/off a try if I can't fit enough shims in the ult to fix this. Also try the settings above. I'm hoping the settings take care of this problem. If not I'm affraid I'm stuck.

[nevtangle]

I would suggest using my recommened settings from the FAQ above. I know they worked with the CF on/off in a classic valve at 20bps fullauto. You're not likely walking the trigger faster than than.

Ok I didn't get very good results with the seetings at:

15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20

So I started messing with the Fd setting and turned it up to 60. That seems to be the magic number! All the other settings work best as mentioned above. No more chuffing and the HF is performing great. Can't wait to see how it does on the field tomorrow.

Settings that are working for me:

15 - 20
Fd - 60
Fn - 20

Thanks for the help hitech you are the man!!!

-N

[hitech]

Settings that are working for me:

15 - 20
Fd - 60
Fn - 20

I think I may have to update my recommened settings. Glad to hear it works.

[nevtangle]

NEW PROBLEM:
I got a blade trigger from Luke. Installed it, turned on the frame and fired 2 shots. Every pull after that wouldn't fire even though the switch was clicking. The board was displaying the 20 BPS shot mode but didn't register FIRE when the trigger was pulled. I tried to turn it off and back on, but it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected the battery and waited for it to power down., reconnected the battery and tried to turn it back on. Nothing. I can't get it to turn on now. I even tried a new battery. Is the board fried? It worked great this past weekend. I shot 1 1/2 cases at the field and everything was great. Put the new trigger on it and now this.

[hitech]

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

[nevtangle]

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

Thanks once again hitech. It does have trigger stops so that sounds like the problem. I'll check to make sure I have a gap between the switch and the trigger stop. Other than that maybe a new switch?