Hyperframe FAQ
Hyperframe FAQ
NEW, updated FAQ. Includes new fixes and new SETTINGS. If you are using the old settings, try the new settings instead.
The following are "reprints" of posts regarding the hyperframe. The title contains a link to the original thread.
Adjusting the Hyperframe's solenoid, On/Off pin to short
You probably need a longer on/off pin. I had the same wear pattern and fixed it with a longer on/off pin. Regardless, you want to determine if the sear is engaging fully. To do this, remove the grip panels and the safety (be careful not to loose the spring or the TINY ball bearing). Gas up the marker and fire it a couple of times. See if you can manually move the solenoid plunger away from the sear "leg". You need to have a small gap between the sear leg and the solenoid plunger. If you do have a gap then try and move the sear leg (accessible through the safety hole). It should NOT move. If it does, the pin is not long enough.
If there is no gap, or it is large, loosen the four VERY small set screws in the top of the grip frame (you will have to remove the grip frame to gain access to them) and move the solenoid.
Also, you should be using a RT style bumper (clear). They dampen bolt bounce better than the classic bumper (blue). The more the bolt bounces the more it will wear the sear.
Added: BTW, you can also use a RT pin. They come in various lengths.
On/off Pin Too Long
Provided by rjvemt1:
Centeflag makes the on/off pin in three different lengths. If the pin you have is too long the lower end will mushroom and the frame will 'click' but the gun wont fire. When this happens try wiggling the safety button, if the gun fires the mushrooming is the problem. Take the on/off assembly out of the valve and try to remove the pin from the assembly. If the pin will not come out you have a mushroomed lower end. File the edges so that you can remove the pin, then file the length down or call Centerflag and ask for a new shorter one (you will need to mic the one you have or just ask for the shortest one they make).
Starting Service Mode.
With the Hyperframe off, press and hold the bottom button. While still holding the bottom button and before it turns on press and hold the top button. Wait. It will turn on in service mode. When you are done making your changes, press and hold the bottom button to turn it off.
Level 10 bolt stick?
I have a broken in (6k plus rounds) level 10 in an automag classic. It is using the largest carrier that does not leak and the longest spring.. I'm using the RT bumper. I also have a hyperframe. When I really get on the trigger and get the rof up I get "bolt stick". The bolt does not reset in the oring; it's protruding into the breech about 1/4 of the way and leaks like crazy. I turn off the air, it resets and I can turn the air back on and everything is fine, until I get the rof up again. I did notice that the RT bumper is a little thicker than the classic bumper. Any ideas?
BTW, I'm running a 9.6 volt battery pack for the hyperframe instead of a standard 9 volt battery.
Level 10 bolt "stick" fixed.
I posted earlier that I thought I was getting bolt "stick" with the level 10 bolt and a Hyperframe. (You can read about it here http://www.automags.org/forums/show...&threadid=63676 ) However, it wasn't sticking on return, it was failing to push the paintball all the way into the barrel and was stopping about the point the power piston came to the end of the oring. The hyperframe was providing a much shorter trigger pull time so the on/off opened before the bolt could get back. Hence, bolt stick. Switching to the shortest spring solved the problem. Just thought someone else might have the same problem.
Won't turn on
Provided by nevtangle
NEW PROBLEM:
I got a blade trigger from Luke. Installed it, turned on the frame and fired 2 shots. Every pull after that wouldn't fire even though the switch was clicking. The board was displaying the 20 BPS shot mode but didn't register FIRE when the trigger was pulled. I tried to turn it off and back on, but it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected the battery and waited for it to power down., reconnected the battery and tried to turn it back on. Nothing. I can't get it to turn on now. I even tried a new battery. Is the board fried? It worked great this past weekend. I shot 1 1/2 cases at the field and everything was great. Put the new trigger on it and now this.
Solution:
That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.
If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...
I got it working!!! Disconnected the battery for over 15 min to reset the board and its working again. Hugh sigh of relief... thought my board was dead.
Attention Hyperframe owners, upgrade available
I just got off the phone with Centerflag Products (makers of the Hyperframe) and they have an upgrade option that I think is a great deal (I don't think it was anything special for me). You can upgrade your existing Hyperframe board for a new full auto board for $45 ($75 - $30 credit for the old board), prices subject to change.
This is the new board developed for the auto cocker. It allows full auto and more importantly (at least to me) has a setting for the duration of the solenoid pulse. It can be set from 1ms to 99ms. The two biggest wear problems with the Hyperframe are on/off pins that are too short and a short solenoid pulse. You can get a longer on/off pin, and now you can set the solenoid duration to whatever you want.
Update. I sent in a working board only to have them tell me it did not. They sent it back to me, and it no longer works. I would suggest sending in the entire frame, maybe even with a battery. They can just turn it on to verify that it works.
Contact information:
Centerflag Products
PO Box 148
Yorkville, Il 80560
Phone: 630-553-2611
Fax: 630-533-2631
Corrected Service Mode SettingsNew Fullauto Service Modes
THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTIONS ARE INCORRECT.
15 - 05. This is the Initial Setting (default is 05). This is the amount of time (in milli-seconds) the solenoid is energized.
Fd - 20. This is the Fire Delay. This is the "frequency" (in micro-seconds) of the current pulse once the solenoid is closed.
Fn - 50. This is the Fire Number. This is the solenoid return time (in milli-seconds). The larger the number the slower the return.
Now, I don't know for sure, but I think that Fd applies to Fn. That is, Fd is the frequency of the pulse for the Fn amount of time. BTW, an Fn number of 0 seems to be 100, NOT 0.
Settings used to fire at 20bps FULLAUTO (actually fire paint) using a plainview 9.6 volt Ni-MH battery, level 10 bolt and a Halo B:
15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20
Installing the safety.
The parts are very easy to loose. Be very careful.
1. First, remove the grip frame from the marker.
2. Place the tiny spring in the small vertical hole in the bottom of the horizontal safety hole.
3. Place the tiny ball bearing on top of the spring. Be careful not to knock it off.
4. Take a small allen wrench and insert it in the small vertical hole in the top of the grip frame just above the spring and ball bearing. Press down on the ball bearing until it is completely down inside the hole.
5. Push the safety "pin" in from the opposite side. Push the safety pin against the allen wrench enough to hold the ball bearing in place.
6. Slowly remove the allen wrench and slide the safety the rest of the way into place.
Very slow hyperframe
Provided by robertjuric
My problem was the hyperframe was shooting EXTREMLY slow, like around
3bps. What RelapsedKevin told me was that the solenoid was not resetting properly because of aluminum oxide on the solenoid plunger. So he told me to take some 500grit sandpaper to it. I used 800 and sanded the skinny part of the plunger first. It didn't help to much, so I went back and did the fat side. Amazingly it worked. I just sanded enough so it was shiny again. Now my hyperframe shoots fast!!!
Intellifeeding a warp to a Hyperframe with a common battery.
I have read about others having problems intellilinking a hyperframe with a warp when they both use the same battery. I had the same problem. I tried various combinations of diodes to isolate the warp from the hyperframe with no luck. I gave up on the diodes when I let the smoke out of one (they never work right once you let the smoke out ). To isolate the warp I use a reed relay. When the solenoid is activated it closes the relay (same as closing a switch) and signals the warp to spin. With this setup you put the warp intellilink jumper on the top (same as when using a switch). The current draw from the relay (11 ma) isn't enough to affect the solenoid (at least on mine, but I do have the "power" setting at 9). The relay is Radio Shack part number 275-233 which is a SPST - 12VDC Reed Relay.
Here is a simple diagram that illustrates how to install the relay:
<img src=http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659055">
Alternative connection posted by xen_100:
Another way to do it it to use a STDP solid state relay. rewire the trigger to activate the relay. then use one relay pole to "trigger" the frame circuit and the other pole to make the warp run. it take about 30 mintues and you have to rewire the grip a little. but its not hard and it 100% isolates the two circiuts.
(PS: this will work for boo-yaah, ESP, dragun, centerflag, etc grips as well)
<img src="http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659595">
And yet another alternative connection posted by sniper1rfa
I have found that connecting just the negative lead of the solenoid to the intellifeed (to the tip of the connector) and setting it to (-) works. It's the positive lead that causes problems. No need for funky parts that way, too. :-)
Intellifeed w/o a common battery.
Provided by robertjuric
What I did was take the shield wire of the intellifeed cable, splice it with the black wire coming from the battery. Then the middle I twisted around the very bottom post of the trigger switch.
Hyperframe Trigger Job - By Rudy
NEW, updated FAQ. Includes new fixes and new SETTINGS. If you are using the old settings, try the new settings instead.
The following are "reprints" of posts regarding the hyperframe. The title contains a link to the original thread.
Adjusting the Hyperframe's solenoid, On/Off pin to short
You probably need a longer on/off pin. I had the same wear pattern and fixed it with a longer on/off pin. Regardless, you want to determine if the sear is engaging fully. To do this, remove the grip panels and the safety (be careful not to loose the spring or the TINY ball bearing). Gas up the marker and fire it a couple of times. See if you can manually move the solenoid plunger away from the sear "leg". You need to have a small gap between the sear leg and the solenoid plunger. If you do have a gap then try and move the sear leg (accessible through the safety hole). It should NOT move. If it does, the pin is not long enough.
If there is no gap, or it is large, loosen the four VERY small set screws in the top of the grip frame (you will have to remove the grip frame to gain access to them) and move the solenoid.
Also, you should be using a RT style bumper (clear). They dampen bolt bounce better than the classic bumper (blue). The more the bolt bounces the more it will wear the sear.
Added: BTW, you can also use a RT pin. They come in various lengths.
On/off Pin Too Long
Provided by rjvemt1:
Centeflag makes the on/off pin in three different lengths. If the pin you have is too long the lower end will mushroom and the frame will 'click' but the gun wont fire. When this happens try wiggling the safety button, if the gun fires the mushrooming is the problem. Take the on/off assembly out of the valve and try to remove the pin from the assembly. If the pin will not come out you have a mushroomed lower end. File the edges so that you can remove the pin, then file the length down or call Centerflag and ask for a new shorter one (you will need to mic the one you have or just ask for the shortest one they make).
Starting Service Mode.
With the Hyperframe off, press and hold the bottom button. While still holding the bottom button and before it turns on press and hold the top button. Wait. It will turn on in service mode. When you are done making your changes, press and hold the bottom button to turn it off.
Level 10 bolt stick?
I have a broken in (6k plus rounds) level 10 in an automag classic. It is using the largest carrier that does not leak and the longest spring.. I'm using the RT bumper. I also have a hyperframe. When I really get on the trigger and get the rof up I get "bolt stick". The bolt does not reset in the oring; it's protruding into the breech about 1/4 of the way and leaks like crazy. I turn off the air, it resets and I can turn the air back on and everything is fine, until I get the rof up again. I did notice that the RT bumper is a little thicker than the classic bumper. Any ideas?
BTW, I'm running a 9.6 volt battery pack for the hyperframe instead of a standard 9 volt battery.
Level 10 bolt "stick" fixed.
I posted earlier that I thought I was getting bolt "stick" with the level 10 bolt and a Hyperframe. (You can read about it here http://www.automags.org/forums/show...&threadid=63676 ) However, it wasn't sticking on return, it was failing to push the paintball all the way into the barrel and was stopping about the point the power piston came to the end of the oring. The hyperframe was providing a much shorter trigger pull time so the on/off opened before the bolt could get back. Hence, bolt stick. Switching to the shortest spring solved the problem. Just thought someone else might have the same problem.
Won't turn on
Provided by nevtangle
NEW PROBLEM:
I got a blade trigger from Luke. Installed it, turned on the frame and fired 2 shots. Every pull after that wouldn't fire even though the switch was clicking. The board was displaying the 20 BPS shot mode but didn't register FIRE when the trigger was pulled. I tried to turn it off and back on, but it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected the battery and waited for it to power down., reconnected the battery and tried to turn it back on. Nothing. I can't get it to turn on now. I even tried a new battery. Is the board fried? It worked great this past weekend. I shot 1 1/2 cases at the field and everything was great. Put the new trigger on it and now this.
Solution:
That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.
If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...
I got it working!!! Disconnected the battery for over 15 min to reset the board and its working again. Hugh sigh of relief... thought my board was dead.
Attention Hyperframe owners, upgrade available
I just got off the phone with Centerflag Products (makers of the Hyperframe) and they have an upgrade option that I think is a great deal (I don't think it was anything special for me). You can upgrade your existing Hyperframe board for a new full auto board for $45 ($75 - $30 credit for the old board), prices subject to change.
This is the new board developed for the auto cocker. It allows full auto and more importantly (at least to me) has a setting for the duration of the solenoid pulse. It can be set from 1ms to 99ms. The two biggest wear problems with the Hyperframe are on/off pins that are too short and a short solenoid pulse. You can get a longer on/off pin, and now you can set the solenoid duration to whatever you want.Update. I sent in a working board only to have them tell me it did not. They sent it back to me, and it no longer works. I would suggest sending in the entire frame, maybe even with a battery. They can just turn it on to verify that it works.
Contact information:
Centerflag Products
PO Box 148
Yorkville, Il 80560
Phone: 630-553-2611
Fax: 630-533-2631
Corrected Service Mode SettingsNew Fullauto Service Modes
THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTIONS ARE INCORRECT.
15 - 05. This is the Initial Setting (default is 05). This is the amount of time (in milli-seconds) the solenoid is energized.
Fd - 20. This is the Fire Delay. This is the "frequency" (in micro-seconds) of the current pulse once the solenoid is closed.
Fn - 50. This is the Fire Number. This is the solenoid return time (in milli-seconds). The larger the number the slower the return.
Now, I don't know for sure, but I think that Fd applies to Fn. That is, Fd is the frequency of the pulse for the Fn amount of time. BTW, an Fn number of 0 seems to be 100, NOT 0.
Settings used to fire at 20bps FULLAUTO (actually fire paint) using a plainview 9.6 volt Ni-MH battery, level 10 bolt and a Halo B:
15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20
Installing the safety.
The parts are very easy to loose. Be very careful.
1. First, remove the grip frame from the marker.
2. Place the tiny spring in the small vertical hole in the bottom of the horizontal safety hole.
3. Place the tiny ball bearing on top of the spring. Be careful not to knock it off.
4. Take a small allen wrench and insert it in the small vertical hole in the top of the grip frame just above the spring and ball bearing. Press down on the ball bearing until it is completely down inside the hole.
5. Push the safety "pin" in from the opposite side. Push the safety pin against the allen wrench enough to hold the ball bearing in place.
6. Slowly remove the allen wrench and slide the safety the rest of the way into place.
Very slow hyperframe
Provided by robertjuric
My problem was the hyperframe was shooting EXTREMLY slow, like around
3bps. What RelapsedKevin told me was that the solenoid was not resetting properly because of aluminum oxide on the solenoid plunger. So he told me to take some 500grit sandpaper to it. I used 800 and sanded the skinny part of the plunger first. It didn't help to much, so I went back and did the fat side. Amazingly it worked. I just sanded enough so it was shiny again. Now my hyperframe shoots fast!!!
Intellifeeding a warp to a Hyperframe with a common battery.
I have read about others having problems intellilinking a hyperframe with a warp when they both use the same battery. I had the same problem. I tried various combinations of diodes to isolate the warp from the hyperframe with no luck. I gave up on the diodes when I let the smoke out of one (they never work right once you let the smoke out ). To isolate the warp I use a reed relay. When the solenoid is activated it closes the relay (same as closing a switch) and signals the warp to spin. With this setup you put the warp intellilink jumper on the top (same as when using a switch). The current draw from the relay (11 ma) isn't enough to affect the solenoid (at least on mine, but I do have the "power" setting at 9). The relay is Radio Shack part number 275-233 which is a SPST - 12VDC Reed Relay.
Here is a simple diagram that illustrates how to install the relay:
<img src=http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659055">
Alternative connection posted by xen_100:
Another way to do it it to use a STDP solid state relay. rewire the trigger to activate the relay. then use one relay pole to "trigger" the frame circuit and the other pole to make the warp run. it take about 30 mintues and you have to rewire the grip a little. but its not hard and it 100% isolates the two circiuts.
(PS: this will work for boo-yaah, ESP, dragun, centerflag, etc grips as well)
<img src="http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659595">
And yet another alternative connection posted by sniper1rfa
I have found that connecting just the negative lead of the solenoid to the intellifeed (to the tip of the connector) and setting it to (-) works. It's the positive lead that causes problems. No need for funky parts that way, too. :-)
Intellifeed w/o a common battery.
Provided by robertjuric
What I did was take the shield wire of the intellifeed cable, splice it with the black wire coming from the battery. Then the middle I twisted around the very bottom post of the trigger switch.
Hyperframe Trigger Job - By Rudy
mags , even with an hyperframe , are far more reliable than a trix ...... 
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