Z-Grip differences

[Fuji]

I had bought a z-grip minus the sear, awhile back thinking that I would build a z-shocker. Well, things didn't pan out and now I'm thinking of building a mag again. Here's the problem that I was hoping you guys could help me out with.

It has no sear, and I notice that the online store sells 2 types of sears. How do I tell which type of grip that I have, AM/MM or RT Pro?

Also, what would I need in order to attach the grip to a ULE mainbody? (Aside from the ULE of course):)

[ChucktheMAGician]

You will need the AM/MM sear and a rail to attach the grip and body to. You may also need a rail bushing, I'm not sure if rails come w/ that or not. You didn't mention a valve so I assume you know about that part already!:)

[Dayspring]

Body rail. You'll also need some of the small parts as well. Screws and what not as well as a rail bushing.

[Fuji]

So the Z grip never came out for an RT pro?

So the regular mini/regular mag sear will work just fine? I'd really hate to throw $30 away.

Yup, I know about the valve. Without a doubt an x-valve. Actually, I noticed the x-valve has a sear in the picture with it. Will this one work? Or do I need to buy another one?

[ChucktheMAGician]

The z-grip will work on an RT Pro also but you said that you were building a mag and most people build one using the standard mag parts. You would have to but a different rail and sear pin if you wanted to build your own RT Pro. The sear that comes w/ the x-valve will work on a standard mag rail. Along w/ the rail bushing and asst. screws that hold the grip, valve, and body together you will need to also get a sear pin. It goes thru the hole in the sear and rests in the rail allowing it to pivot as you shoot. The x-valve is Nitro only, I think that's mentioned in the desciption in the store but I'm not sure. Good luck on your mag!

[Fuji]

Sorry!

I guess I wasn't being quite clear enough. I am unsure whether the grip is of a standard grip frame or of an RT Pro grip frame. I always understood that the grips are different due to the banjo bolt. (Correct?) So, I was just wondering how I could tell the differences between a standard Z-grip and an old RT pro type grip.

Ex: Mounting hole size/location difference or is there an identifying number on the grip?

[than205]

From my research (on this forum):
There are 3 types of Z-grips.
2 Fall into what I will call "First generation" Z's.
They are distinguisable by the fact that they are specific to the Classic frame or the Old school RT.

1. The Classic frame option has a smaller hole for the valve field strip screw. It also has two v ridges at the top of the grip that run the length of the grip and go into the v-grooves of the rail on the Classic.

2. The Old School frame option has a larger hole for the valve field strip screw. This accomodates the "Banjo bolt" screw. It has no "ridges" as that the bottom of the RT is essentially flat.

"Second generation"

3. This accomodates all mechanical Airgun Automags. It comes with a removable bushing (typically Gold in color I believe, the bushing that is) where the field strip screw goes. And there are no ridges that I spoke of earlier.

As far as the RT/Pro. You can basically consider it a Classic. There are no hole spacing problems with using any z-grip on any Mag. I have an Old School RT Z-grip on my RT/Pro.

If you have the first Z-grip type, you will want to mill off the ridges to put it on any other rail than a Classic.

Good luck and enjoy!

[Fuji]

A ha!

Asking the right question helps! Thanks! From what you have described. It sounds like I have an older classic frame type of z-grip. It has 2 v like wings that are at the top that run from about where the safety is all the way to the back. The rear "valve" screw is not enlarged so I am assuming it is not for a banjo bolt.

Thanks all for helping out and dropping a little knowledge!