AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Hallo I search for the the stock or a other boo yaah e -frame mounting instruction??? Please mail me a link or a scan ! That would be very great. Many thanks!
Mike ([email protected])
I looked for the same thing and never found it. The closet I came was this link: link.
Note - The link is for the Spyder version of the boo Yaah. Basically, its the same frame. The only thing that won't be covered there is installation. Here is the best I can from memory:
1. Buy LX and install it on your mag with the stock trigger frame. Once you are sure you have the LX setup and ready to go with the lightest trigger pull possible, you are ready to proceed.
2. Remove the bolt, the stock grip frame and the sear and pin.
3. You'll have to modify your sear by removing the clevis. Check here under the 'Installing the new HyperFrame grip' section.
3. Replace the stock on/off pin and top. The boo yaah needs a special on/off pin and top to work properly. If you don't have it, buy one from CenterFlag(<$20) it will work too.
4. Remove the grips from the boo yaah
5. Connect the main body, sear and pin, body rail and the boo yaah as normal.
6. Install the valve.
7. Charge the boo Yaah battery and install it.
Tuning (Here's where it's hit or miss)
This part is hit or miss... but basically you have to position the solenoid in such a manner as it mimics the movement of the clevis normally. The solenoid is attached to the boo yaah with 2 set screws. I suggested you carefully bend the large solenoid out of the way to access them. I used an allen wrench to push sear to get an idea of exactly where the 'fire' spot was. This part took the longest and was the most frustrating for me. If you have patience, you should be able to set it up to work properly.
I think hostage may have better instructions in his FAQ, but I HTH.
Do you have the proper on/off top? The proper on/off pin is larger on one end than the other unlike the stock on/off which is closer to uniform diameter. The proper on/off top also has a smaller hole for the on/off pin. The combination keeps the on/off pin from being passed through the hole in the on/off top. I hope that made sense. If not, just know that you'll need a different on/off pin and top.
Comment