Halo B Problem

[nak81783]

I just got my Halo B Friday, and tried it out today. Last night it was feeding fine. I emptied 180 paintballs in just under 9 seconds. Thats right around 20bps. However, today, when I ran the thing on my full-auto Spyder, it couldn't even do 13bps. 12bps seemed to work fine, but that was it. Anything above that caused chopped paint. Now I know I probably don't need it to run that fast, but since I paid for a hopper that is supposed to do 20+bps, I'd like to know what's going on.

Any help or suggestions would be great.

Thanks,
Nathan

[BlackVCG]

Does your Spyder have PF? If so and you're using the stock PF plug, get yourself an AGD parabolic PF plug and try that.

[nak81783]

I'll give it a try

Never thought of that...always thought that was just an Automag issue. I'll try swapping it over from my Mag and see what it does before I order one. I was able to get it up to 13bps with a lighter main spring, but I think that's just cuz it gives the ball a little extra time to drop down due to less force behind the bolt.

I'll be sure to report back if that doesn't work.

Thanks,
Nathan

[rehme]

batteries

[nak81783]

fresh

[nak81783]

PF Plug Test

Ok, I switched over my Mag PF plug to my Spyder and tried running it full-auto again. It got it up to 13bps, but thats it. I don't know if my plug is parabolic or not. Those two pics in the post about parabolic vs old plugs look the same to me. Are there any better pictures comparing the two? I'll probably order one just for the heck of it. I've never had feed problems with my Mag (Intellifeed and Level 10), so I'll just throw the new plug on the Spyder and see what happens. If it's not the plug, what else could be holding back the feed rate? It's a fairly low pressure Spyder currently running at 400psi. If you need more details, please let me know.

Is there a way to increase spring tension or sensitivity in the Halo B? I've read that some push the paint right past detents. Mine doesn't seem to push nearly that hard. I've heard of sensitivity settings on the Halo B. What are these, and how do I adjust them?

One more observation: The paint always seems to chop at the bottom of the ball that will feed next. Seems kinda like the ball stack alignment is off. The chambered ball will shoot or get pushed into the barrel, and the next in line will get chopped on the bottom. Maybe I need to lighten the push instead of increasing it. Would a new detent possibly help? Current detent is over 5 years old...lol. Is there a way to adjust ball stack alignment on a Spyder?

Thanks,
Nathan

[BlackVCG]

Does your PF plug have two holes in the handle for set screws? If it has those holes, it's the new style PF plug.

[nak81783]

Got one comin'

I'm not sure about the set screws. I'll have to check that this weekend when I get home. I'm at school for the week.

I do have one coming from AGD though. Very nice people to talk to. First time I ever called. Hooked me up for free.

Any truth or opinion to the other stuff I posted above about ball stack alignment or tension/tension settings?

Thanks,
Nathan

[xen_100]

ahh........you fianlly hit on something.........the bottom of the next ball is getting chopped. the halo is working exactly as it should then. your spyder is the problem. with the extra pressure that the halo puts on the balls is causing the ball stack to sit wrong. this cuases the next ball to be partialy feed into the breech, this causes it to be chopped. on a normal hopper the ball would just move up a little to get out of the way. with the forcefeed it cant, so it is chopped. what you need is either a better detent (Those little rubber nubbins are usless) or you need a custom bolt that will keep the balls from moving at all once they are in the breech. (I had to do this when I got my warp feed.)

[nak81783]

Ok...

Ok...again the guns are at home, so it'll have to wait til the weekend. At least I have some things to check now.

I'll take a look at where the ball in the chamber goes. If it rolls back, I'll have my friend whip out a custom Bandit Bolt with a longer nose to hold it forward.

But what if it rolls forward? It's an old Spyder SE body with the little rubber detent held in place by a plate and two philips screws. What are my options on putting something else in to hold the ball from rolling forward? Will it require custom machining?

Thanks,
Nathan

[xen_100]

I dont know about custom machining. but I put cocker detents on all my spyders. just use a 1/8" NPT tap and a 21/64" drill. gives alot more resistance and they dont wear out like the rubber nubbins.

[nak81783]

Detent Placement

How do you know where to center the tap for the threaded Cocker detent? My Spyder body has a slot for the rubber nubbin to give it room to fold over I think.

Will the harder detent wear my bolt or break the thin section where the rubber detent usually fits into the bolt?

Thanks,
Nathan

[xen_100]

well you can center it where the detent is now. if you need it a little closer, move it a 1/16" closer. just remember, the cocker detent is a little bigger than the spyder one, so it will move the ball back just a touch on its own.

[nak81783]

Edit

I edited the last post while you were replying. Any opinion on the rest of my previous post?

Thanks,
Nathan

[xen_100]

no it wont hurt your bolt at all. it is a light spring that the little ball rides on. liek I said, I have done this to all the spyders I have ever had (even a few friends spyders) thier is no adverse effect of this mod.