cut down RT body with classic valve won't cock

[Drizit]

so i got an RT body and cut down the back to take a classic valve, it looks good but the sear doesn't seem to be pushing the trigger forward. I tossed the valve in my micro mag and it works fine, so i'm guessing it's somthing to do with the body. if anyone who has done this mod has any ideas i'd love to hear them.

thanks.

EDIT: forgot to mention it worked fine with the x-valve i borrowed for a game.

[chizle97]

was it an original RT body. cause i think the classic vlave has a little bit of a differenc between the sear from the RT valve. but i could be mistaken.

[athomas]

If the valve fits comfortably in the gun with that cut RT body then it should work, especially if you did determine that it works with an X-valve. Maybe you are getting bolt stick. Try a different power tube spacer (assuming its a level 7).

[Drizit]

i tried the longest spacer, the 2 power tube springs, and a brand new never used bolt spring. all o-rings replaced (as the valve was built using parts leftover from old field guns) and lots of oil everywhere. I did get a couple of shots out of it, but when i took the valve out to put in the wave spring for the pump it stoped working again. i took the spring back out and it still won't push the trigger forward.

[Drizit]

ok, i filed the body some more and now it will recock most of the time without the wave spring in it, however sometimes it will take about 30 seconds. i can only get about 3 shots in a row reliably (sp) with the wave spring for the pump it's about the same, some times it works sometimes it won't. i'm realy at a loss on this one.

[Drizit]

up, still looking for any ideas you have. thanks

[athomas]

Is the valve tight against the body. Maybe its too tight. You may have to file a bit more.

[Drizit]

it's a normal fit inside the tube as far as i can tell. and i actualy miscut the lenght it's a bit shorter then a normal body by about 1/8 of an inch.

[Drizit]

ok, i got the not cocking thing down, it turns out it had nothing to do with the body, it was the sear pin.

the sear pin/sear i used with the x-valve was the one that came out of the mag the x-valve was in. the pin that gave me the problems was a verry old (a few years anyway) however never used one that was sitting around, it turns out it was too big for the new sears, and wouldn't let the sear move back up once the bold was in position. soloution... take a grinding wheel to the pin and at the same time bore out the hole in the sear a bit. now it works every time.

any one know of a spec or tolarnce change in the last say 5 or 6 years for the hole in the sear, or the sear pin size?