I need input on the ULE trigger mod

[shocker]

first off, will this mod work on a micromag RT, because if not, the following questions can be disregarded.

anyway, I was just wondering if this mod is worth it. I've been reading a lot about it and it says it reduces the trigger pull by about two pounds. however, it also reduces the reactivity of the RT and it often short strokes. so I am basically asking for any input from anyone who has this mod currently installed (preferably in an RT) - what do you think of it? is it worth the cash? is the difference incredibly noticeable (rof, trigger pull)? also, does the RT/level 10 combo make it more/less effective, or does this not really make a difference? is a standard RT with the level 10 just as good, or does the ULE mod increase the rof substantially (by substantially I mean about 3,4 bps or more).

any input about the pros and cons of this mod would be helpful.

[edweird]

well I have a few questions of you first....

What do you have in your micromag as a valve?
Do you have a LVL 10 bolt installed? (if no the ULT wont work)

depending on the answers to the above questions we move on to these questions...

if you take out your on-off assy does it have one o-ring on top or two(one inside the other)?


I currently have my UL Trigger kit installed in my ULE RTP and love the thing! The problem with short stroking is not a real issue with the xvalve or one of the RT valves. But if your gun uses the classic valve systems you will have to worry more about short storking due to the fact the valve does not "react" and push back when recharging.

You wont beable to walk this trigger mod as some people have tried. BUT the reduced pull and lower reactivity make the pull very nice and short when properly adjusted.

[shocker]

well, to answer your questions, I have the RT valve in my micromag, and no, I do not have the level 10 kit installed yet (if you or anyone else knows someone who's selling one I'd be interested ...)

my basic concern is not with the short stroking but the mod's overall worth. is the reduced trigger pull and increased rate of fire noticeably different than the regular rt with level 10? I don't want to spend 55 bucks with and end product almost exactly the same as what I had before.

also, I feel like an ***, because I cannot determine whether or not I have two orings in my on/off. when I take out the top part and look into the valve it looks like there are two, but I can't tell for sure. should I be able to easily distinguish one from the other, or does it look like they are sitting on top of one another? do you know where I could find a pic of a valve that has two orings? your input would help a lot, and thanks for the info so far.

[Jerhew]

basically you should have oring across the entire diameter of the hole...
if you were to take the orings out of the bottom of the hole it should be a flat surface
if there is a step, and one small oring, then you have to have it milled out...probably cost you about $25 at any reputable machine shop...

while i don't have my ult yet...as i've just ordered it...
i really can't personally speak on whether it's worth it...
but i have yet to read that ANYONE who tried it, didn't like it,
everyone says it's a lot faster...
hopefully by the end of the week i'll be able to tell for myself

[shocker]

I tried to get a pic of the on/off, but it's not that great quality. if anyone can offer an opinion as to wether or not I have two orings or one, that'd help a lot. thanks

[Jerhew]

looks like a 1 o-ring to me...
i have the same thing...but i already ordered my ult
i'm getting it machined this week...

[shocker]

yeah that's what I was afraid of ... kinda hoping I'd get lucky and there'd be another oring nestled in there somewhere. guess not.

anyway, thanks for the input. after I get a level 10 (hopefully soon) maybe I'll look into having it machined. thanks jerhew and edweird for all the input, and if you guys have anything else you'd like to add I would appreciate it.

actually, I got a question for you ed - how's paintball in AZ? I'm moving out there in a few weeks and was wondering how it was playin in that God awful heat. hope it's not too bad ...

[edweird]

You will love the lvl 10... nothing give me joy more in the staging area to see the jaws of some recballers drop when the magic of the "chuff chuff" is shared.

I would hate to dissapont you ... but playing in the heat sucks. Honestly the winter months are about the best time of year to play.

Well when ya get here drop me a PM and I will try and hook ya up with some local intel. Where abouts ya planing on living?

[shocker]

I'm gonna be a Wildcat, living in Tucson. playing in winter will be good though, since it's very hard to play in the winter in CT (snow, ice, subzero temps). this way I'll get to play all year round: summer in CT, fall winter spring in AZ. I look forward to it.

[afrankart]

I was wondering if those who have the new on/off assembly have tried to raise the reactivity at all with adjustable tanks? I wasn't sure if it can be raised at all. I am kinda worried how much reactivity I will have at the preset 750psi I currently have as opposed to one running 850+? I would think that there would be some noticeable difference due to the design of the valve.

[Jerhew]

im under the impression...(though i could be wrong)
that adjusting your output pressure won't have much effect
on reactivity...
it probably still will affect it, but it won't be nearly as noticable