BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[silentdeath55]

is the black o-ring supposed to fit inside the other white one? mine doesnt and i'm confused, someone help....

[afrankart]

Has anyone noticed if increased input pressure will result in any more reactivity at all? I was wondering because I have a preset at 750 psi and my normal on/off doesent give much reactivity at that pressure, so I am hoping I wont have *especially* low reactivity.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

ULE trigger

I got my on/off sent to me all set up ready to go, I think that's how they're coming now. I just popped that badboy in my gun and it was pretty good, threw another shim on and it was better, then I ran out of air cause I was at 900psi to start and spent 200psi because I kept shooting once and getting the bolt sticking forward and venting. Too many Lvl 10 shims had an effect with this, I guess because of less push resetting the sear to start, I don't know. Anyone else had that issue? The pin comes bonded with the pin support and in the ULE bottom too, not sure how AGD connected them (loctite?) haven't tried pulling it out yet. Have any of you who got it after the beta test fiddled with this?

Still can't walk it, and I am definitely starting to consider the idea again of drilling a hole a little higher up on the sear to angle the pin, cutting a little stroke distance off but increasing the reactivity. The pull is so light but without a little shorter pull it's definitely not walkable. Anyone know how AGD gets their sears made? Do they do them inhouse or do they outsource for them? I'd love it if I could pay AGD a little more and have them punch the hole a little higher on a sear before they coat it and set the trigger rod just right for the new angle, keeping it within AGD standards. I'd be happy to pay a little more for it and let them know how it goes if they set it up so I don't have to modify it and risk hurting my baby (All-AGD ULE mag). Beta-test it basically. Can this custom work be done? And before this becomes suitable for another forum....

How many shims is everyone with a ULE body/XValve/Stock AGD rail/Intelliframe setup using? I'm at 3, one above what they send it to you with. Anyone finding the need to use Lvl 10 shims with the on/offs they're sending now?

Frankart, I have not fiddled with input pressure because I use a Crossfire set nitro tank, but the reactivity isn't bad, I haven't shot much but it comes back pretty fast.

[silentdeath55]

I have 4 ULT shims and 2 LX shims. If I had an x-valve I could walk my trigger right now, its that light. My LX does stick a lot too. I'm going to work on that tomorrow and see if i can figire it out. I let you know if I come up with anything.

[Dayspring]

Black oring fits on TOP of the on/off bottom assembly. There's a little recessed section that it goes in. And then the pin goes through that.

Originally posted by silentdeath55
is the black o-ring supposed to fit inside the other white one? mine doesnt and i'm confused, someone help....

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

wow

Wow, that's some serious shims silentdeath, and it doesn't go into runaway? Impressive work man. I ran out of air before really finely tuning it but when I get more air I will throw a few more in and see what I can do. It hasn't gone into runaway, just had that stick issue.

The strange thing about the stick issue is it starts if I am firing and using my finger to stop the bolt firing all the way (raining outside and gotta respect the roomies by not firing the thing much). I went out of my apartment, actually fired a shot, and it was fine. Weird. But that was when I noticed the issue of a little pull on the trigger letting it vent. I think it's because I can go so slow with the trigger that I was able to catch the leak, it was only a minor one. But I took out a shim and will test it next time, I had 4 in the LX so I'm sure that was it. So I think I'm all set with that but it definitely came up once the ULE on-off was put in.

I gotta play with this badboy this weekend! Any other great tuning tips coming up?

[Jerhew]

silentdeath is running a classic i believe, so no worries about runaway there...

hopefully ill have a whole rundown of what i did tomarrow night
i have some special plans

[ShooterJM]

Originally posted by Jerhew
silentdeath is running a classic i believe, so no worries about runaway there...

Silentdeath - Is that true? Are you running the ULT on a classic valve? I'm considering doing the same thing but wanted to wait to see if anyone would give it a shot. Are you having problems with the valve not recharging quick enough?

[silentdeath55]

It is true. I do have some problem with recharge rate. you probably won't get anymore firepower with this upgrade if you run a classic valve, but once you get the pull down you will hardly ever short stroke. The pull is extremely light though. I love it, but I cant wait to try it in an x-valve.

[HateE]

Where can i get some more shims? I have all of em in there that came with it... cept i think i lost one so im -1 shim, how many came in the little bag? i know i put three in.

[BlackVCG]

It comes with three extra shims and should have had two installed. You shouldn't need more shims than that to get it working properly.

[painball]

This sounds dumb but do I remove the o-ring existing in my x-valve before putting the ULT in?

And did the ...the name of it doesnt come to mind right now...the thing you need to bond in..did it come factory pre-bonded because it wont come out for me. Well maybe it will, but I'm just afraid to bend the pin.

[Jerhew]

just pry it out...if you don't have a dental pick...use a wood or plastic toothpick...
that way you won't wreck the orings or scratch anything(not that you really can hurt it anyway

yes they come pre bonded now apparently...
mine did anyway
no need to remove it anway unless that little black oring goes bad...

[BlackVCG]

I'm pretty sure they aren't coming pre-loctited. You need to be able to adjust the shim setting. Just push on the top of the on/off pin so the large support piece at the bottom will be sticking out far enough so you can grab it with your fingers. If you can't get it out, some needle nose pliers or regular pliers used CAREFULLY can grip onto it better and pull it out.

Don't be so worried about bending the small pin. When it's installed in the on/off it's pretty much impossible to bend it (I'll probably end up being proved wrong on that one). When you unscrew the two pieces for the on/off assembly be sure to gently pull them apart as you unscrew them. This will get the threads to catch so it will unthread. Once the top is off, set that aside so you don't bend the pin and adjust your shim setting by placing/removing them from the bottom piece.

[Jerhew]

well they definitely are bonded somehow
i gave mine a tug and it was in there tight...
i see no reason to separate it though
just slide the on/off top off of the pin and adjust your shims..
just have be kinda careful when assembling it so you don't bend/break the pin
it's really no big deal though