ya'lls opinion

[Beefullo]

I have a classic mag, I frame, gas thru, steel braded hoses, nitro. The barrel I have is not very accurate. It's also a 12 and I don't want one that long. As I was looking for an 8 inch barrel for a mag I realized there aren't many. Also I realized I am content with my valve, as I probably can't even shoot 10 bps. So here are my two options.

A)
I put an X valve that comes with lvl 10 on my gun. Then I will throw a random barrel price ($100) for an 8 inch IF I can find one. Rawr.

This ends up being $325.

Strengths:
Really nice valve
No chopping

Weaknesses:
Unneeded valve performance
Powerfeed instead of my preferred vertical feed

B)
I go with a ULE mainbody and an 8 inch cocker barrel(estimate $100 again). Also of course I need a lvl 10 bolt kit.

This ends up being...$335

Strengths:
Damn fine looking marker
Simpler barrel and definately easier to find.
No chopping

Weaknesses:
no awesome triggerpull
I guess more expensive


I guess the real question here is do I really need the X valve? Could my money be put to better use giving me vertical feed and cocker threads? Also, if you know of a 8 inch or smaller mag barrel, please let me know. THat's another reason I posted this. Also, sweet spotting with any kind of retro valve has been banned at my local field. They said electros and cockers can shoot as fast as they want, but mags can't. THat's messed up man...

http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=331&CATID=5

Does anyone know about the accuracy and whatever else for that barrel? If I hear something bad about it I am going to buy a stock minimag barrel as I hear those are actually pretty accurate. Any other 8 inch barrels ya'll know of out there?

[Dayspring]

This isn't really a tech issue. This would be better suited for Paintball Talk. I think that's where you'll get the response you are looking for.

Tech is for fixing gun problems.

[Z-man]

even so there is another factor you might be overlooking. The Xvalve (like the RT valve) ONLY runs on HPA. Unless you have an HPA tank sitting around you are goning to have to spend more money on it.

So that may very well answer your question if you dont want to spand more money. I personally would go with the Xvaluve option simply because I REALLY like the RT valve better than the stock A.I.R Automag valve but that's just an opinion.

[LongDuckDong]

Keep the gun as is, add like a lvl X and and ULE trigger. Get a nice cheap preset nitro tank. Spend the rest on paint so you can play your *** off everyweekend.

With all theses upgrades people get I think the only original part left on a classic mag is the frame screw, LOL

[Vitamin G]

my level 10 kit detracted from the kick of the RT valve. I'd go for the ULE and LX

[Beefullo]

Didn't I mention before that I already run HPA? I said nitro...same thing. And the last post. What are you talking about detracted?

[Z-man]

He is saying that the reactive aspect of the RT (or Xvalve) is lessened by the addition of the lvl10 as opposed to the old lvl 7 bolt design.

I dont find this the case however. not only can I rip on my RT's (as anyone who came the the NorCal AO day but I can still make both the classic RT and the Xvalve rapid fire a good sold 18+ rps.

Again, I am going to push you twards the Xvalve as I like it and it's near impossible to pull a "Mag fart" that popped up now and then on my old Minimag.

[Beefullo]

i thought after 10bps the classic mag valve shoots down. Plus, retros are not aloud to shoot fast at my field. Ghey huh?