ONCE AGAIN, X-Valve doesnt work.

[wobbles82]

Yes..once again, it has failed me. I still have the other problem that has yet to be fixed, and really have no clue how to fix it.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100899

Theres the old thread...and yes I have made a thread like every week im sorry for the constant posting but this is the first time somebody actually got back to me. Now, I have used crazy variances of shim and carriers. Currently im using the smallest carrier possible, reason being it is the only one that works without shims. Wait no correct that, I just shot it and I got about five shots off before the trigger gets pulled but no shooting occurs. I have used every carrier setup that seams feasible and still no luck, I have fixed the leak down the bolt but that was nothing. DOES ANYONE HAVE AN IDEA OR ANYTHING? Im still waiting on others to get back to me, but I would just like to use my RTPX once this month. I can post videos later on maybe, it matters if anyone wants to see what im talking about and if they are willing to wait on a slow download. Thanks guys, I really dont wanna use the GZ tomorrow, or the Adrenaline, I just wanna use my mag!

[speeddemon]

Ok, shims and carriers solve 2 completely different problems, and don't interact at all. Take out all your shims, then find a carrier that shoots everytime (use the same o-ring). The put a piece of tape on a ball and hold it in the chamber and shoot. If the ball resets every time, then you are done. If it doesn't, add a shim and test with the ball again. As far as sweetspotting it goes, just get a longer pin, or the ULT. If your pressure isn't too high, you won't be able to sweetspot it. Also the LX stuff won't do anything to reactivity.

[wobbles82]

Thanks for the feedback. As for the Level Ten and all, that is technically what had started the problem. About a week ago when I was trying out m Evo2 I was getting bolt stick, or shootdown, or something but the main part is that the trigger would not recock. Then it was at the point when the sear was backed up very far and wouldn't allow the marker to shoot. When I added a shim, it made everything fine and there were no problems. Until last week at my practice when my marker started going reactive. Any ideas on why the trigger locks up because of the sear assembly? ANYWAYS The problem at hand is the reactivity. I have put 850psi in all the time and had no runaway or super bounce, whatsoever. Now whenever I do so, all I recieve is a reactive trigger. Im going to try my adjustable tomorrow, but when I put 800psi into the marker it was still going into runaway mode. As for a longer pin, what do you mean? I plan on getting a ULT, but I need something to hold me off for about a month. Just for further notice to make sure, I DO NOT want a sweetspot, I want it gone completely.

[speeddemon]

Well, just buy a new on/off pin, but make sure the sear is not worn down first. Could be that the trigger rod has just somehow backed itself in, make sure that when it is fully out (marker gassed up), that there can at most be a credit card's width between the trigger and rod.

[sneakyhacker420]

ok

to make the trigger LESS reactive, get a shorter on/off pin

in this case i would suggest the RT Pro pin (.765")



it has nothing to do with the level 10, but the LX does but less pressure on the sear, slightly lightening the pull of the trigger, but leaving the same level or reactiveness, making it easier to sweetspot



as SD sead, make sure the sear isn't trashed



and just another FYI, retromags/LX can run around 600 psi, making them even less reactive, acting more like a classic valve, but with the faster recharge

right now, i'm running my micro e-mag as 625 without problems

[wobbles82]

Ok OK OK, thanks for the feedback once again. Speed, can you send me pics or details of where to get these parts? Right now my brain is like fried from practice and cannot even think of what the parts are. Also sneaky, trigger rod is located where on my RT-Pro? Im aware that my valve can run at 600, and when I even drop it down to 750psi, it still has a sweetspot, very weird IMO. Also, how do I determine that the sear is trashed? And finally, will a ULE Trigger kit have all the parts that I need to get rid of this? I may just do that. (I used my RT in a recball game just kidding rounds today, and it had so much reactivity it was incredible walkable, lol.)

[speeddemon]

Well, if you have the money then get a ULT, you will definately love it. If it is indeed the on/off pin doing it, then the ULT will fix it since you can add or subtract shims to "lengthen or shorten" the pin (basically by making the on/off valve body a little longer or shorter, its the same thing as changing the pins length). The trigger rod is the long rod coming off the sear that hits the back of the trigger. To check for wear on the sear, the front part (left side of pic) that catches the bolt should look like this. If its rounded off or chipped, they you need a new one.

But anyways in summary...Get a ULT.

[sneakyhacker420]

i said on/off pin

not trigger pin

[xen_100]

Originally posted by sneakyhacker420
ok

to make the trigger LESS reactive, get a shorter on/off pin

in this case i would suggest the RT Pro pin (.765")

I always thought a shorter on/off pin made things more reactive?!?

[Dayspring]

That is correct. The shorter the pin, the more reactive the gun is.

And it's not REALLY the length of the ULT pin that lessens the RT kick. It's the diameter of the pin.

[wobbles82]

Ok, sorry for my stupidity and annoyance but here goes. Conclusions show that I need new parts one way or another, seeing as how my input pressure can be anything and still go into runaway. NOW, what I need to know, is will my warranty cover this? A new sear is like 30 bucks..and the other parts are included in the ULT kit anyways right? So will AGD cover my sear or what? Im assuming thats the problem..if anyone can IM me whenever and talk to me bout this thatd be great. Also, I have a video or two of me walking the RT-PRO without a ULT trigger kit, lol yea, its pretty ridiculous. Its not that fast because the sear gets stuck, like to the point where I pull the trigger and nothing happens. Finally, what would cause something like this? One day it works fine, the next I have problems with the gun only getting one shot off then locking the sear up. Anyone??

[xen_100]

in most cases.........wear parts are not covered by a warrenty.

[wobbles82]

K...well I definately thinks its the pin. Anyway where I can adjust it or should I just buy the ULT and fix it that way? Also, how in the heck does this kinda thing happen? One day my mag works fine, another it doesnt.