Cant Sweetspot = long sear rod?

[Spleen]

ok, for the past 2 days of blazing paint, i cant find the sweet spot. there is a weird thing though which, when i pull the trigger, after about 1mm it will fire, then another 2-3 mm after that it will fire again. I was told to back my rod up a little till it was around 1 7/8 long cause before it was 2" long. That didnt do much besides give me slack between the trigger and the sear rod tip.

Ive even had the tank up to 1150 -1200 psi and it is extremely reactive.. I dropped it down to 1050 psi and i am going to leave it there. Any suggestions?

[xen_100]

my first suggestion is to put the trigger rod back where it belongs. it should be 1.98". NEVER touch it. it is that long for a reason.

if it is reactive and you cant sweetspot it, then it is set up correctly. sweetspoting and extreme reactivity is a malfunction, not a feature.

as for it firing 2 times per trigger pull, I am not sure how it could do that. check your sear and make sure it is not rounded at all. also check the bolt for wear. check to make sure you have the correctly length on/off pin and that it is not bent or broken.

[afrankart]

I don't know why yours wouldn't sweetspot. Even with the stock .750 pin, I can find it even as low as 850 psi.

[Spleen]

i know its not a feature. I also measured the rod legnth and it was at 2 inches. So i dropped it back a bit.

ive had the input all the way from 800 up to the point where it almost leaks out of the reg. I cant find the spot. When i pull the trigger, i can pretty much tap it and it would fire, but its gotta be a hard tap (not nearly like an electro but its the same travel).

The sear and bolt have absolutely no wear. I only probably ran a case through it with all the new stuff on it, so maybe i just have to break the o-rings in?

[afrankart]

did you try lightly squeexing the trigger very slowly until it is all the way back? Mine won't with taps or quick pulls. I gotta lightly pull it about 1/3 of the pull and hold it right there. If I let off a little, it stops. If I squeeze a little more, it stops. I also don't think your sear rod would have much to do with this.

[Spleen]

yea i tried just holding it about where it would fire, but it wouldnt re charge or something...

[Spleen]

Anyone? Another thing, is the on/off pin supposed to stick into the small o-ring whenever i take the on/off out? i do oil the piss outta the valve/bolt too..

[PyRo]

As for it fireing 2x do you have an auto response frame? Is your sear or bolt edge worn?
The RT wasn't made to sweetspot so figuring it out could be difficult in some cases I guess. A shorter on-off pin will also increase reactivness.
Never Ever mess with your trigger rod.

[xen_100]

yes, a shorter pin will give you more reactivity. but a huge word of caution here! take a little off at a time. and I mean little, like .0005" at a time. if you dont have the means to take that little off the on-off. dont do it. a .001 difference will make alot of differece in how the gun reacts.

[Z-man]

The feel and adjustment of the trigger to get within or around rapidfire is largely a matter of the input pressure and flow rate of your tank.

Because this is something that often comes up I made a page to discuss the issue here

http://www.zakvetter.com/Pages/Paintball/Automags/how-to-rapidfire.html

I hear all the time that rapidfire is a "malfunction of the vave" or that it will wear down stuff uber fast, but have yet to hear a logical explanation of why. The information I persent I think makes it very clear how how the "bounce" behaves.