mah E-MAG and its problems

[pbsnor]

and by my E-MAG I mean my baby but ne ways...


Ya, So I was playing at the big game @ my local field and what happens... what always happens.. your gun breaks. Or sumthing on ur gun breaks (my eggy2 is notorious for malfunctioning right when I don't want it to..) so air starts shooting out the back (again) originally i posted my problem on the forum and they said buy a new " " or turn the velocity on ur gun down... now its leaking no matter what so I think its time to replace the " " but what is the " ". I can't remember! If you guys would help me it would be so helpful.


Also.. I've been chopping alot in my chamber... I got a new freak and a new ULE and for sum reason my emag actually chops now... I don't know what it is.. I had the standard warp body and a J&J ceramic and I only chopped maybe once every 3-4k rounds for one reason or another... Usually horrible paint not getting along with sumthing... but now I chop when I try to shoot my gun over 5bps (which any sane player that owns a mag would obviously do) I chop... I throw out a string of about 13 then i'll chop... I don't understand.. this is my baby.. my emag.. when I first got it it was amazing and great and now after about 6 months its angry at life... What do you think could be the problem guys? I know there was a problem with the detents or whatever for awhile and I tried adding another oring figuring it was that... but I don't think it was because it was still doing it.

Please, if you can offer any words i'd be greatful

[ChucktheMAGician]

" " is probably a be a reg. piston! You didn't mention whether you had Level 10 or not? I was gonna bring up the detent thing but you already did. Were you using a Halo?

[pbsnor]

I was using an Evo2 (eggy) with yboard- but could a broken piston cause ball breakage?

[athomas]

Was the velocity being constant? Do you have a level 10 installed? What bore size are you using on the freak system and what is the paint size?

[deadeye9]

My E-Mag has been chopping with the warp ULE body. I tried everything: different paint, 12V mod on the warp, getting rid of the 90 degree adapter (using one piece of hose curved into the input). I finally had to go back to the old warp left mainbody. The chopping stopped. My latest thinking is that the ULE needs a second detent on the input to keep balls from rolling back.

[pbsnor]

yes I do use a level10

[deadeye9]

I assume you have the warp ULE. This weekend I'm trying something new: I'm putting a 45 degree elbow on the ULE input port so that the other end of the elbow is turned up. There will be 4 or 5 balls in the elbow/warp port. This will keep pressure on ball 1. Ball 2 may also load faster. This depends on how long it takes the warp to spin up and push ball 2 into the breech. If the warp doesn't spin up fast enough, then ball 2 won't be fully inside when the next trigger pull happens. This elbow setup looks awful. Maybe the WAS warp board will fix these problems.

[athomas]

How hard is the bolt hitting an object in the breach? Hold a squeegie up against the bolt and check it out. If the level 10 is working it won't have much push. If if it is working then you know the problem isn't the bolt but rather something in the chamber or the barrel that is breaking/shreading the balls.

[MoBiLe]

do you have the lvl 10 installed?
if so, try a longer spring