Odd x-valve and ULT problems

[Lethargic]

I just got an X-vavle and a ULT this last weekend, and I've been trying to set them up. While doing so, I've noticed a couple of odd problems with my mag. For one, it resets WAYYYY slow. I can watch the input guage on my flatline and after I fire it drops from 800ish down to 600 and then takes about a full second to work it's way back to 800 again. In addition, when I air up the gun, it will not reset teh trigger until I back the rear trigger frame screw off by about a turn. Finally, the bolt will occasionally not reset at all, and I am forced to push it back into position with my finger.

While working with the level 10 and the ULT, I've managed to eliminate one or two of the problems at a time, but never all 3. Any help I could get would be much appreciated.

PS. I have the 1.0m carrier, long spring, with 1 shim. The velocity is about 1/8 turn before it starts to vent from too high a velocity. The ULT is currently down to 2 shims to get rid of the chuffing I was feeling.

Thanks in advance

[Dayspring]

Use the mid spring first of all.

Secondly- tune the level 10 first. Get all those issues done and out of the way. THEN work on the ULT. You're changing too many variables at the same time, and that can give confusing signs as to what's wrong.

[BlackVCG]

Use 4-5 ULT shims in your ULT and leave it at that. If anything, you might get some bounce, but it will keep it from causing shootdown that might make you think LX is having problems.

It sounds like you have one of those guns that is picky about the field strip screw torque. Typically what happens is when you tighten the field strip screw, the valve gets pulled down tight against the rail and the bolt binds against the bottom side of the barrel. This usually happens when the barrel is drilled off center. You'd be surprised, most of them aren't as concentric as you'd think.

To eliminate this variable, try testing the gun without the barrel. Also, I'm assuming your field strip screw is an AGD field strip screw with the urethane washer in place.

If you have a steel body, the washer inside can sometimes drag on the bolt, so you might need to take a needle file to it.

Also, do you have a 4.5K FL? If so, the recharge rate might be a problem with your reg. seat. AGD has new updated seats, which seem to be working well, so you might want to get one of those to help with that problem.

[Lethargic]

Ok, here is my update...

I went down to a local store and convinced the owner (a teammate) to let me play with the mag in his workshop. I've learned that on my mag, the field strip screw has to be hand tightened, and then backed out 1/2 turn in order to set the valve in the beginning. I then set out to fix the level 10. I left my ULT at 2 shims, because that seemed to work alright, and switched my mag back to the 1.0 carrier, no shims, and the middle spring. This worked, but was a bit hard on my finger, so I added one shim, and this softened it a little bit.

After that, I got back to the ULT. I ended up with it at 3 shims, and it works wonders. The only problem I noticed was the recharge rate was still off. When I used the gun with my 68/3k flatline, it seemed to still lag a lot during rapid fire. However, the problem went away when I tossed a 68/3k crossfire on. Because of this, I'm thinking it might be a tank problem now. Do the 3k flatlines have problems with the reg seats as well, or is it just the 4500s?

Anyways, the gun works, to a point. I really need to get used to the ULT, as I am chuffing a lot during rapid fire. I'm thinking about getting a trigger stop put on. As of right now, the gun rips, but I'm worried about my tank.

Thanks to Dayspring and BlacVCG for all your guy's help

Kevin

[BlackVCG]

Both the ULT and the X-Valve really need a good amount of use on them before they start breaking in and working like they should.

My ULT wasn't anything spectacular until I put a few thousand shots on it and now it's to the point that I can walk it and with enough shims it can go into runaway.

Do you have a rail bushing in your gun? It's a spring steel tube that goes inbetween the rail and the trigger frame in the field strip screw hole.

Your field strip screw torque shouldn't be that picky.

[Lethargic]

Black - I have a classic RT converted through the "go-x" program. I just got it back from AGD this last weekend. It has a brass tube that that slips into the rail on order to keep the field strip screw in place. Not sure if that is a rail bushing, but that is what I have.

Sadly enough, my field strip screw IS that picky. THe gun refuses to reset unless I very precisely loosen the field strip screw. It is definatly one of the oddest things about the gun.

Also, I have shot the gun less than 2k times since I got it back from AGD. I am sure that it will work much better once it is worn in.

Kevin

[redlaser666]

Check the link in my sig!! that may help with your chuffing problem. PM me if you want more info on the mod.

Later.

[Lethargic]

up...

Still having the extra-slow recharge problem. Ive taked a good 5k shots (2000 or so with paint) through this thing, and it still recharges sooooo slooowwwwllllyyyyy... It is almost painful to watch. The flatline is set to 1000 imput right now, and that is the only thing keeping it from having to wait a good second between shots. At 800 imput, the gun will fire, then work its way back to 800, then reset, then repeat the whole cycle. At 1k imput, the gun will cycle normally, but when I put a bit of a speed burst on, it will totally lock up, and have to wait to recharge before the bolt resets. Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this? I have tried working with the level 10, and leaving the ULT alone, then working with the ULT only. No luck. I am hoping to play with this gun next weekend, so I am hoping to get it fixed before then.

all else fails, I will have my friend Kenny look it over at his shop. I was just hoping it could be somethig I could fix at home.