Hyper Frame BPS help??? NEED TO KNOW ASAP!!!

[nato]

Hey guys... I have a hypermag with the 20 bps board, ULT, Xvalve(lvl10), and ultra light aftermarket switch.

I am new to hypermags and was wondering... If I have a 20 bps board with all the upgrades to improve the performance why wont my mag fire faaster then... 9bps if even?

I need to know asap and prefferably before 12 tomorrow. (playing pb)

Thanks

N.A.T.O.

[Dayspring]

Because you can't pull the trigger fast enough.

[nato]

I can easily reach into the 18bps range with my matrix and around 20bps with my viking.... im pretty sure I know how to walk a trigger.

N.A.T.O.

[PBCapo]

Originally posted by Dayspring
Because you can't pull the trigger fast enough.

Yea i doubt that. I don't consider myself that great at all and i can pull 9 easy on my classic minimag, with intelli

[hitech]

Try to catch me on here on the weekend is like trying to catch lighting in a bottle. It's hard to say what the problem is from your description. First are you using the service mode settings from my FAQ or the ones Centerflag recommends. If you are using Centerflag's settings that is a likely cause. Try these:

15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20

Here is a link to my Hyperframe FAQ.

[spantol]

Nato,

The more I think about this, the more I think the super-light switch might be the problem. Try swapping it out for the slightly-heavier one I stuck in the Level 10 kit.

[nato]

I was thinking the same thing... Unfortunatly I was also having excessive chopping so right now Im trying to make the xvalve work flawlessly... once i fix it then I will mess with electronics. For now Im running manual.

When I was at the field the solenoid would be clicking but the gun would not fire, other times it would go on full auto bursts of 4 to 6 shots.

Hitech: Im still a newb to hyperframes and I don't know how to set these numbers in my frame.
15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20
I have a 2o bps semi only board... and as spantol mentioned a lighter microswitch. The bottom screw was not screwed through the bottom of the switch so it is sticking out a bit but holding the switch in place. Could that be a problem or should I still switch the microswitch back to the stock one?

thanks

N.A.T.O.

P.S.- Once the hyperframes start working well do they stay that way or are they tempermental... like a cocker?

[hitech]

You need to have the switch installed correctly. If it doesn’t quite fit, use a small file to remove whatever plastic is holding it up. When my brother installed a new switch he had to do that. Just keep at it until it fits.

To get into service mode, press and hold BOTH buttons until the hyperframe turns on. One of the buttons (sorry, can’t remember which one) will move to the next setting and turn it off after the last one. The other button changes the setting.

After we installed it and got it running it has NEVER had a problem. I do recommend using a plainview 9.6 volt NiMH battery. They also help avoid problems. The one issue he has with the hyperframe and the level 10 bolt is that he can only run the short spring. It has always worked well, so it’s not a big deal. A ULT should fix that problem. He is running a classic valve. I don’t have any experience with “RT” type valves.

[nato]

ok... so you think i may not need to switch out the microswitch... just install it correctly (although its not really installed horribly wrong.)
N.A.T.O.

[nato]

also my lcd screen is a bit messed up where you cant see the 1st # and or letter. for the 15 - 20 part mine just shows 5 - 20... i assumed that this was 15 - 20 but jjust making sure. Also does the 15 just stay like that? As in its not ajustable?

N.A.T.O.

[hitech]

All the settings are adjustable. They are in that order. You want the first one to be 15 - 20, then Fd - 50 and lastly Fn - 20.

BTW, Once it works you can try lowering the settings if you want. I would recommend insuring the first (15) and last (Fn) AT LEAST total 20, preferably 30. I would first try reducing the first number (15), but I would no go under 10. As long as it works well (try 20 bps fullauto for a test), you can then try lowering the other numbers. If you get the first number down to 10, I’d then try lowering the second number (Fd). I wouldn’t go under 20 for that. If you can get 15 – 10, Fd – 20, Fn – 10 to work I’d stop there. Then again, I’d probably just leave it at 15 – 20, Fd – 50, Fn – 20.

[nato]

ok update: As I have said before I only have semi mode... I made my ULT/ lvl10 work flawlessly with my intel. frame. After using an entire scuba tank of air to assure that it is working flawlessly I went on to the hyperframe. I put the settings that hitech told me to do and tried to fix the microswitch. the hole of the switch box with the threads of the other end of the frame did not line up so I havent dealt with dremling out a clear path yet... I dont think the microswitch is a problem since I can still activate the solenoid without the bottom screw going all the way in. Once I re-installed the hyperframed I aired it up and had a tremendous leaking down the barrel. Not remembering that I switched the numbers on the frame, I switched out the sear with a new one. It again leaked a lot down the barrel with the bolt sticking forward. Im a little stuck now because I dont know how to program the frame correctly to fix the leaking and hopefully have it run 20bps.


N.A.T.O.

[hitech]

Originally posted by nato
I dont know how to program the frame correctly to fix the leaking and hopefully have it run 20bps.

Originally posted by hitech
To get into service mode, press and hold BOTH buttons until the hyperframe turns on. One of the buttons (sorry, can't remember which one) will move to the next setting and turn it off after the last one. The other button changes the setting.

[nato]

I said I just did that and put on the
15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20
settings...

N.A.T.O.

[hitech]

Okay, I'm missing something. How about an update? What is it doing, or not doing?