got a new rt pro, have a few questions

[jive turkey]

I have a few questions, the first has to do with trigger stick. When I first aired up the marker it was fine except after a little while the trigger would lock up on me. Ok no prob, took out a shim, seems fine for a long time. Now when I pull the trigger, every other time the pin comes halfway out (still fires). Sometimes it sticks too in which case I turn off the air then proceed to turn it back on. should I put in a larger carrier with a buncha shims? I tried this but it didn't seem to help much, just made it leak. I have been oiling the ASA, Powertube o-rings, and the on/off assembly.
Second question, when is a good time to put in the middle (red) spring? I am currently using the stock spring, but was told that the red would be easier on paint but a little less efficient. Should I wait until all of the bolt stick problems are gone or just after breaking in the internals more?
Third, I am using a crossfire 68/4500 800psi output tank, is there any way to adjust the reactivity OTHER than changing the input pressure? I just bought the tank and don't want to sell it for another.... I am getting a wee bit 'o bounce and I don't want to upset the refs or field owners where I play.
thanks,
-sam

[tonybhall]

DITTO!!!!

I am having exactly the same problems with my brand new Custom ULE RT, except my bounce is insane and my trigger sticks all the time. I am very frustated. At first I thougt I could just tune these problems out but now I don't know. I even took it to a local tech that AGD refered me to. Also, when I got mine the level 10 was not tuned very well and chopped. I think I fixed that but am ready to give up on the rest.

I read that the only way to adjust out the bounce was to lower the input pressure. I have the same problem as above. I have a 68/4500 crossfire tank set at 850psi tank that is brand new. I thougt about getting a inline reg. However, when I tried a friends adjustable tank, we turned it down to 600 psi and still got a lot of bounce. 600 psi is well below that this marker should be operated at. So, the inline reg would not help. So what I have is a marker does not fire half the time and when it does work it's not legal anywhere.

One of the advertised features of this marker is that it comes "Factory Tuned." To me that means it should be ready to rock and roll out of the box. Should I just return it to AGD and make them deal with it?

[jive turkey]

Bump.

[jive turkey]

Update: Ok so I just finished lubing every orrifice of the gun. I turn the air on and take 2 shots, then the trigger sticks again. So what I'm thinking is, larger carrier but with a few shims? I'll have to look first but I'm supposed to use the largest carrier without any leaks and then go from there right? I don't remember which size I am currently using, I'll find out in a minute. Should I bump my velocity and/or change my spring? I am using the stock spring. My velocity is around 265 right now (field limit) I have a feeling if I bumped it up a little bit that this problem might fix itself a little but I don't wanna risk getting a hot gun penalty. BTW, any suggestions for tools or techniques as to removing the carriers? At the field I had a nice little pick, at home I can't think of what to use. I just don't want to scratch it all up. And yes, I'll remember to use the same o-ring.

Thanks,

-sam

[TheTramp]

For the pick: I use a paperclip that I bent into a little fish hook shape w/ a pair of needle nose pliers

If I were you I'd take out the L10 and reinstal using the "most common set-up" which is the middle spring, two shims, and the 1 1/2 carrier (I think). Also continue to use the same o-ring (as you know).

The exact carrier to use can be found in the L10 quick instalation instructions.

I've installed three L10's and this set-up worked perfectly for all of them.

If you can make it work, I'd use at least the middle spring because the stock spring will increase your chance of chopping a fair amount.

P.S. You can't use too much oil!

[Joni]

I you have an old wire ball detent they are great for fishing out the carrier with the bent side.

[jive turkey]

Update: So I seem to have found the best possible LX setup so far. Carrier 2 with no shims. I lube the crap out of everything before airing it up and it seems to work well that way. Except I went in the backyard to fire it today and a very slight leak sprung up and came forth from the barrel. Normally I would take out a shim if I were using any, but in this case I am not. I have a feeling I have to change the carrier o-ring, but I've started to get this one broken in rather well and I'd really like to keep this one if I can and not have to start that all over again.

Any suggestions?

[Enemy]

had that happen to me in my classic added shims which seemed to help you could try that if that doesnt work go down a carrier size and if that doesnt work think about the inner orings sometimes they are produced differently... the trigger stick is related to carrier size so this should do the trick...

oh and the field strip screw is always a good way to get stuff out just becareful not scratch stuff with the threads.

[jive turkey]

nono, the bolt stick is no longer a problem. Now it's the slight leak from the barrel. If I go down in carrier size, the bolt stick will be resurrected, if I add shims, the leak will increase. I'm just gonna lube the ever lovin' shiste out of it and see what happens.

-turk-ay