rt not firing

[wek29]

Hi all,
I just got an RT and have a bit of an issue. I'm guessing it's been in storage for almost 3 years. So probably it just needs a good cleaning. At 1st when I aired it up it went into what I'd describe as reactive mode? it wasn't firing, but it was cycling in full auto. I took it to a local shop and it did it the 1st time they aired it up, but the next time it fired great. I took it home, aired it up and the air sets the trigger, but it won't fire now. Any ideas? I'm thinking something is stuck open, but I'm not very comfortable taking it apart.
Thanks!

[50 cal]

Minw did the exact same thing. It hadn't been aired up in a long time when i bought it. I had to take the on-off pin out and very lightly polish the on-off pin with 0000 steel wool. Add a drop of oil to the wool so you aren't going at it dry.

While your at it, go ahead and put in new o-rings all the way through the on-off assembly.

It took me awhile to get to the bottom of my problem.

Hope this helps you out.

[NeilS300]

If you have a retro valve then you should have the lvl. 10. Turn your velocity way way up. If that doesnt work I would replace all the o-rings in the valve and all that.

[wek29]

Hmmm, I don't think it has the level 10. It's been in storage so long, I kinda doubt it anyway. Satyrday it fired for a while and then stuck again. Guess I'll try to lube it. Is there a good "How to" for that?

[Thourne]

Since it has been a while take your valve out of the gun. Pull the bolt off and put 3-4 drops of oil down the powertube and replace the bolt. Then take out your on/off assembly (probably the root of the problem) put 2 drops in the hole and then out some on the on/off pin. Then put it all back together. Before you gas it up put a few more drops of oil in the ASA for good measure. Also, make sure you are using pb oil and not petro based oil.

[wek29]

Ok, I'll give that a shot. I did notice the on-off is gone. Not sure why, that's just how it came. Also, should I be using a regulated tank? I just have a screw in and the guage on the rt is reading 750. The reason I ask is the bottom of the gun says it should be at 600 or something like that.

[Thourne]

What do you mean the on/off is gone. Are you refering to the on/off inside the gun? Or are you talking about an on/off ASA. The one I'm refering to is inside the gun. Look here: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf for a detailed diagram of the RT. Click on each part so you'll know what it is/does. (not meaning to insult you if you knew this, I just want to help). If the on/off assembly is missing that is why your gun is shooting full auto. There is nothing to force the sear into a locked position so the gun is firing all the time and wasting a lot of air. Look in the AGD store site for a new complete on/off assembly. They are under $30.

Once that is fixed. 750 psi input into a RT is fine. I run mine at 850 and many people run theirs somewhere from 700-1000 psi. It just changes the reactivity of the trigger. I don't think the problem is the air input. The problem is more than likely the on/off (if the above issue wasn't a problem) or a worn sear or bolt. But I would try oil the on/off or replacing orings there. If you still have problems take a picture of your sear and bolt and post those here. Then we'll be able to rule that problem out, and keep trouble shooting until the problem is fixed.

[wek29]

Hey, don't worry about insulting me...I have no clue about this. I think I used the wrong term. I think what I am refering to is more of a safety, but it says on-off by it. It's says on-off on the frame, so I thought that's what you meant. For whatever reason mine is gone. The last time I shot it, it shot pretty well for a while. It was a little reactive? but it shot only when I pulled the trigger. Then after a few minutes it stuck again, and wouldn't shoot. I'm gonna try to dig into it this weekend and clean and oil it some.

[boggerman]

Without the level 10 setup in it, you may be getting old fashioned bolt stick. Take the entire valve out of the gun and pull the bolt off the end of the valve. Then remove the brass tip that has a slot across it - a nickle works great for this. See if you have a solid spacer in there. You may need to pick up a Power Tube Spacer Kit. If you are indeed experiencing bolt stick, you need to switch the spacer out for the next longer one. If you plan on going to level 10, don't bother with the spacer kit, you won't need it any more.

[wek29]

Ok, I need to do this while I'm online...took it apart yesterday, but I don't remember a spacer at all. Will a spacer kit wrok from a regular automag spacer kit? What about any of the orings from a regular automag kit?

[boggerman]

Spacers are all the same. however only a few of the o-rings are the same, you really need a RT valve kit. Here is the exploded view of the RT valve:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=201&categoryID=22

Maybe that will be helpful.

When you removed the brass tip there should have been some type of spacer(brass or colored aluminum) and an o-ring inside the power tube.

[wek29]

Ok, got to it. It was stuck inside and is a brass color, so I didn't realize it was a separate piece. So I just need to put a longer one in? I'm gonna go ahead and clean and oil...after this much time I think I need to order an oring kit.

[boggerman]

Now would be the time to upgrade to level 10 if you are thinking about it, it will do away with the current spacer, and replace it with a different style. However, if you are not yet ready to do that, I imagine that you can pick up a used spacer kit from someone here on AO that has upgraded to level 10 for pretty cheap.

Also, you are probably right about the o-ring kit, after a long time just sitting, it could probably use some new seals and such.

One last thing, take a look at the bolt and compare it to stock bolts on the AGD order page, if the bolt is an aftermarket unit, it may be the problem. Most non-AGD bolts are crap, plain and simple. If this is the case, it is really time to go level 10.

Many people here seem to forget that there were mags before level 10 came along and there are problems associated with the level 7 bolt/valve that no longer exist with level 10.

[wek29]

Boggerman,
You've been a huge help! I am pretty sure it's a stock bolt, because it looks very similar to the one on a mag I used to own. I'm still trying to decide if I should buy this...$150, but needing work...prolly not a lot of money to get it going, but is it worth it? Hmmmm...

[Altimas]

Hey Wek...this is LeAlan...the guy you talked to yesterday at Galyans. You definately need an RT Valve kit and replace all the Orings. The gun looked to be in decent shape and 150$ would be a good deal, but it has been in storage for a whilke and could prolly use a good cleaning and tune up. If you keep having problems out of it too, take it to Roy at Paintball Quest he has always been very willing to help me out with tricky Mag situations. Good Luck!!