Xmag reactivity in M mode

[MaxPowers]

I noticed that the trigger on my Xmag in Mech mode is FAR less reactive than on my original RT. THe X's on-off pin is SMALLER than the one on the RT. I run 900-1000 psi in to both of them. I am wondering if it would be a good idea to file the pin down a little. Anyone have any thought?

[JDean]

I just changed over from a Level 7 valve to the X-Valve so that I would have "reactivity" - but, I'm in the same situation as you so it seems. Mine isn't reactive at all, so I called the tech folks at AGD and spoke to an individual who said to "grind" down the on/off pin to .74 first and then see if it works (becomes reactive) and if it doesn't, to go down to .735 - but no more than .735. I've not tried this yet, and you might want to call AGD and double check this info. I didn't come away from that call with a good feeling, partly because my opinion is that I shouldn't have to pay $225 for an upgrade that requires me to get out a Dremel tool and calipers.

So, give AGD a call and see if they confirm would the tech rep told me. I'd be interested to hear what they tell you.

Regards,

Joel

[MaxPowers]

Thats EXACTLY what I did with my RT and the thing was incredible. My brother who I sold it too loves the stupid thing to death. I would try it again with my X-mag, but I am not sure if it would affect anything in electronic mode.

[JDean]

Cool, so grinding the on/off does work?!? I'll have to try it out. I'm tired of all these jokers with A-5's, etc sending fusillades of paintballs at me

[MaxPowers]

OH YEAH, the ginding thing works, but you have to be very careful not to take off too much. (like 5 thou. a try)

Like I said, I am wondering if I do this to my X-mag, if it would have any bad effect on the electronics system/solenoid, ect,ect.

[AGD Paint Baller]

when you grind down you grind down the fat end of the pin right? or the skinny end? i have the same prob with my x-valve but on a rt ule

[MaxPowers]

****the SKINNY end where it touches the sear. Like I said, just be careful. Take a little off at a time until you get it whre you like it. Set the input pressure up between 900-1000 psi.

OR

if you dont want to mess around with your pin, AGD sells them in various lenths for about $15 a pop.

My old RT with the LVX in it can clobber anything it comes across on the field. It is sick. My brother loves the attention. There I am with my X-Mag while my younger brother gets all of the glory with MY old school RT.

Go figure. :-)

[Z-man]

I am surprised that Dayspring did not get this thread.

You can get all the reactivity you need out of your Mag by adjusting your input pressure and depending on the flow rate of your tank.

Grinding away at that pin is not general a good idea. An in spec pin can go from almost no bounce to full auto "rapid-fire". If you are not carefull, you can end up with a marker that only rapidfires and cannot be shoot a shot a time.

Because there is a great interest in this stuff and so I am building a section on my site that will explain all these burning questions.

http://www.zakvetter.com/Pages/Paintball/Automags/automags.html

[AGD Paint Baller]

sorry z-man but my reactivity is about nothing with my pressure at 1000 so it is really un reactive

[Z-man]

I would check and see what happens when you plug in a differnet tank. For example, if you plug in a scuba tank with 1000psi into your valve you will suddenly notice that 1000psi unregulated seems a bit different than 1000psi on some adjustable tank.

The value of the psi is not the key. Many tank are adjustable but have very restrictive regulators that are rather pathetic in how fast they are able to recharge the pressure after each shot. while 850psi works on my MaxFlow, it did NOTHING on my old 3K Flatline.

Again, this assumes that you have your valve and marker within factory specs. The correct searpin length to the trigger and on/off pin are critical in makng this work. You should NEVER have to grind down that pin if those to parts are in spec.

[AGD Paint Baller]

i have a 88ci 4500psi max folw also but i have tryed the pressure all over the place and nothing but ill try it again when i get my tanks filled again

[theraidenproject]

That's weird, my Xmag is more reactive (using the same tank) than my Emag, one friend's Retro, or another friend's X valve. Just luck of the draw I guess.

[Dayspring]

Re: Xmag reactivity in M mode

If you haven't tweaked the trigger at all, it won't be near as bouncy as another one whose trigger is nice short & light.

Originally posted by MaxPowers
I noticed that the trigger on my Xmag in Mech mode is FAR less reactive than on my original RT. THe X's on-off pin is SMALLER than the one on the RT. I run 900-1000 psi in to both of them. I am wondering if it would be a good idea to file the pin down a little. Anyone have any thought?

[MaxPowers]

If the pin is too long you can run 10,000 psi into the stupid thing and the trigger will still be flat....

Even the techs at AGD told me about the pin thing... just to be careful doing it. I ordered a couple different lenths and played with it till i got my RT the way i liked it.

BUT will this work with an E or X mag? Or should I say, will it effect the electronic mode?

[Z-man]

Originally posted by Z-man
Again, this assumes that you have your valve and marker within factory specs.

All you need is a set of Calipers.