Odd situation w/on/off

[trains are bad]

I have a used classic I'm setting up. I'm having a heck of a time with shortstroking issues. In fact I'm starting to think I would have been better off with my tippmann. It doesn't shortstroke--if I fire 3bps.

*doesn't know if this is related*

When I take it apart, the valve doesn't want to come out of the body. I realize this is the on/off pin sticking down in the hole in the body. So I pull the trigger repeatedly, but it doesn't work. I end up having to take the body off from the grip. And when I do, The on/off pin is still sticking in the hole, and I can easily press it in and it stays, and the vlave come out. So like, the why didn't the sear do that? It is supposed to right?

[Joni]

Could the trigger rod have been adjusted? Make sure that it has the correct length.

[trains are bad]

How do you know?

[Joni]

Check this thread out:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67604

[trains are bad]

*gives Joni a virtual hug*

I just lengthened my trigger rod and i can't even shortstroke it now!

That thread spec'ed 1.985, I couldn't even get close to that and have it work, I was at 1.8 I think, so I only went a little longer.

One thing now is the trigger has no take-up, (I can't remember if it did before or not) so I'm concerned the sear may now be engaging the bolt by not as much, though it still has a healthy pull. And if I scar the bolt, I'll end up with lvl ten anyway. If I scar the sear, I imagine those are cheap.

[Joni]

The bolt is softer than the sear, so that's what will wear. You could try removing the valve and look down the body and see of the sear sticks up. It should be level with, or lover than the body.

[athomas]

Are the grip frame and/or rail stock AGD parts or aftermarket parts?

[trains are bad]

All stock.

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by trains are bad

That thread spec'ed 1.985, I couldn't even get close to that and have it work, I was at 1.8 I think, so I only went a little longer.

One thing now is the trigger has no take-up

That spec is really meaningless,no offence to anyone.

Adjust the rod so that when the gun is gased up and the trigger rod is fully returned,there is 1/32-1/16 of an inch gap between the rod and the trigger.There should be very little take up but you should be able to at least jiggle the trigger a bit.There should NOT be constant pressure from the rod on the trigger.

[trains are bad]

I had a hunch that was the way to go. Guess I'll screw it back in little.

[cybershark]

the reg/valve connection

Make sure to see that the reg and valve are tightly connected...as in all the laser engraving is lining up properly...my roommates RT Pro was just slightly off the tick marks and it was doing a similar thing...right down to leaving the pin protruding and preventing removal of the valve...once we just torqued the valve body another 16th of an inch all was well...it seems like it's lining the pin at an angle to the sear and all you can do is pop the trigger with a little backpressure...no firing except the occasional *chuff* sound as it's been dubbed...for reference that's a plain jane mini valve with a level 7 bolt, reliably tuned spacer, and fresh seals...hope this helps

[BagelBoy2004]

Never mess with any stock parts. This includes trigger rod length too!